MOTOR STUCK

Anonymous-0

Well-known Member
How is the best way to unstick a motor that has been sitting for about a year..340 Farmall gas.
PLease e mail me
 
Pull the head and pan and pour ATF on top of the pistons and let soak. Remove one of the rod caps and use a piece of 2 X 2 oak and a big hammer and see if you can drive out the piston and sleeve.
Hal
 
If its only been sittin a year I dont think Id pull the head right away...Id get a can of blaster and empty it into all the cylinders followed by a good bit of ATF (cpl ounces each) and let it sit for awhile, if your not in a rush a few days is best but at least a cpl hours. Then find a spot where you can get a prybar on the flywheel (sometimes you have to pull the starter) and just try moving it in either direction if its only been a year it should come loose before long...When it does, put the starter back in and COVER THE PLUG HOLES cause it can shoot an oily mess for 50 feet when it rolls over the first time. The key things are Time to let the oils work and the leverage on the fly wheel.
Engines that are stuck to bad to be freed up this way are usually going to have rings and cyl walls pitted so bad that they wont last long even if you do pull the head and beat em loose. at least thats been my experience...Good Luck...OCG
 
Follow Oldcraneguy's advise. If its not been that long you may be able to bump it with the starter if its good and you've got a good batery. We did that on a 9N that locked up with either use. Couldn't pull it but the starter bumped it enough you could just barely see the fan move and after enough tries it was loose again.
 
atf, diesel fuel, marvel mystery oil in the cylinders and let soak for some time continually trying to make roll every so often.
 
If none of them work pour some kerosene on top of the piston and set it on fire. Don't do this near anything flammable or near a building. Then use the oak and hammer to see if it will move. Only set fire on one at a time. That heat should free it. Hal
 
pull the plugs and see if it turns now, a cylinder is maybe hydro-locked on you

BIL's 400 used to sit outside with can over exhaust, water would drip into manifold thru bad exhaust pipe joint and fill #4 cylinder with water, water sure shot out when it fired

tractor stored inside now
 
We had a 400 farmall with a stuck engine, if you can get it on a hill being pulled with another up hill, then put it in 4th gear and pull with puller tractor, then apply brakes and tell the man that is pulling you to back up to put slack in the chain, then release your brake with the tractor still in 4th and let it roll backwards and let out the clutch. In other words you are rocking the tractor motor backwards and forwards. It puts more pressure on the motor to make it turn over. This is used if the motor is lightly stuck, or if it has had blaster or diesel put in to the plug holes. be careful.
 
Heres how I do it and have done more then 20 engines like what you have. I first off fill the cylinders with ATF and let it sit a week or 2. Then I take a 12 volt battery and set it in the tractor and use short fast taps on the starter. Always put the plugs back in when its sitting but do pull them back out before you try to spin it over. NEVER EVER try to pull one with another tractor or you can/will brake things you do not want to brake. Out of 20 plus that I have done only 2 did not pop free
Hobby farm
 
Pulling a really stuck engine can bend or break the rods trying to push a stuck piston up. Then you take it apart and fix all the broken stuff, it the bad rod did break the block.

Gerald J.
 
I have had good luck by using the PB blaster and some ATF. I then use the hose from my compresson gage and attach it to the air line with over 100 lbs of psi. Do this to each cylinder. I have been able to increase the compresson on a low compression motor by using Mystery oil.
 
I have unstuck many engines. I am in awe of the secret penetrants that I hear tell of. For me
a wood block and a 20 pound sledge has been the most sucessful. As I get older though I now often ask myself, why did I buy this one.
 
Go to your local army surplus store and buy some rifle bore cleaner. It works great and fast usually over night. I've heard about it and seen it work. I looked at a tractor a neighbor had sitting outside (w/exhaust covered) and tried to start it without any luck. Well a year later I bought it from him and pulled it home only to find out the engine had locked up in just 12 months. I tore it down and I couldn't believe how bad it had corroded inside. Tear yours down and work on one piston at a time they're easier to remove that way instead of trying to move all of them at one time by turning the engine over. Remember it's stuck and you'll have to tear it down in the future any way 9 times out of 10. The rings stick to the pistons and uses oil then. I bought an IH 574 the dealer said it needed a valve job. Well I figured I'd do it my self. Well when the head was pulled off I seen the pistons were scarred around the edges. Good thing I didn't run it very long before pulling the head. Could of cost me a bore job! Just do what you feel is right is what I tell people! One thing I keep in mind is a "Little education can broaden a narrow mind but there is no cure for a big head". If it's not done right why do it?
 
Jerry"s will work we broke loose a 330 that had been sitting for 3 or 4 years. We took the rocker arms off and knocked the center out of 2 sparkplugs welded 1/4" pipes to them, we then srewed them in to #1 and #4 cylinders then added air to them and bumped the starter it turned half a turn then moved the air to 2 and 3 to turn a full circle put it back together and it runs fine. p.s. don"t stand on the sparkplug side when try it.
 

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