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- Thread starter mikegpage
- Start date
Anonymous-0
Well-known Member
I say get the crud out. Crud aint good for it and I don't think detergent oil could hurt it.
Anonymous-0
Well-known Member
It seems to me the crud was deposited in layers over the years , and the detergent oil will wear it away in the same manner , and not in chunks as is commonly feared. Think of a bar of soap under the kitchen faucet, it will just melt away. Maybe do an early oil change if it looks dirty too soon. Its so hard to find non -det oil nowadays , it prolly has det. oil in it now !!
In doing some research of my own several years back I discovered something I didn't know. Unless the guy that owned the machine before you used a straight weight oil then he was using a detergent oil. Fact is there isn't a non-detergent multi-viscosity oil made and sold in the US. I came about this discovery trying to find the "correct" oil to use in a piece of Komatsu equipment where the manual was saying to use a multi-viscosity oil in the hydraulic system. In my experience hydraulic systems, especially mobile ones, had always used a straight weight, non-detergent oil. Turns out nowdays the mfgs really don't care what you run.
That aside, in your case, if you use a detergent oil ands one wasn't previously used the only thing you might need to do is change the filter a little more often. If there is "crud" in the engine and it gets cleaned off by the detergent it will get trapped in the filter causing it to clog faster than it would if the engine was already "clean" inside. So drain it, change your filter, buy a good quality oil and don't worry about it.
That aside, in your case, if you use a detergent oil ands one wasn't previously used the only thing you might need to do is change the filter a little more often. If there is "crud" in the engine and it gets cleaned off by the detergent it will get trapped in the filter causing it to clog faster than it would if the engine was already "clean" inside. So drain it, change your filter, buy a good quality oil and don't worry about it.
Anonymous-0
Well-known Member
10-30. Ford would have called for 10-30 if they could have had it back then.
Gerald J.
Gerald J.
old
Well-known Member
- Location
- Camdenton Missouri
A lot depends on where you live and if your going to use it in the winter. My self I prefer 30W all year round but I live in Missouri where it does get cold but most of the time it does not stay that way for long
Hobby farm
Hobby farm
Your ford has a bypass oil filter so only a small percentage of the oil is filtered anyway. As to the weight to use what condition is your engine in? What pressure is your guage showing at idle? If I run a multiweight in my '49 (10w30) I only show about 8 lbs of pressure. with straight 30 it will idle with 20 lbs and at speed will show about 30. I have for the last 15 or so years run detergent in mine without a problem.
I always find it slightly amusing when folks are overly concerned with the proper oil to run in these old machines. The oil that was availble at the time of manufacture was swill in comparison to modern oil. Any new oil that you put in specs light years ahead of the intended,I would stay away from synthetics though, it is so thin that you will have oil all over.
I always find it slightly amusing when folks are overly concerned with the proper oil to run in these old machines. The oil that was availble at the time of manufacture was swill in comparison to modern oil. Any new oil that you put in specs light years ahead of the intended,I would stay away from synthetics though, it is so thin that you will have oil all over.
Anonymous-0
Well-known Member
Just buy some new oil and filter change the old stuff and quit worrying and stop listening to all the old wives tales about new oil. I have a couple of tractors i bought many years ago and have used them over the years with no problems.
james rumph
Member
I was told years ago to run the 15-40 rotila and have been doing so since with zero problems.
"Yes it"s diesel oil" or a grade of ,but seems to work just fine. I have repaced both pan gaskets on the tractors this last year and the inside of both motors was spotless.
Have had the question/problem many times. If it is heavily sludged up from only have non-detergent oil its whole life, a high detergent oil can make a mess of it. You'll probably can't tell without pulling the oil pan.
What we did at several dealerships, and I still do at home - is add a mix of half detergent oil, and half non-detergent. Then keep an eye on the oil color and see how fast it turns. If it turns heavy black in one day, you've got a dirty crankcase and will either have to change the oil often, or switch of non-detergent.
What we did at several dealerships, and I still do at home - is add a mix of half detergent oil, and half non-detergent. Then keep an eye on the oil color and see how fast it turns. If it turns heavy black in one day, you've got a dirty crankcase and will either have to change the oil often, or switch of non-detergent.
Thank you Gene....and a couple others, for expressing some decent common sense....what we always referred to as 'horse sense'.
People for the most part ignore me like a boil on their a$$.....(can't deny I am there, but resent the hell out of me being so) because I tell them what they don't want to hear.
Over and over again, these OIL questions are repeated. People have been raised to believe that there is magic in a bottle. Uncle Goober swore by brand X and cursed brand Y and therefore Opie is scared $hitless to use anything but brand X.
Then there is the person who ONCE upon a time had some problem, attributed it to a certain type of oil (detergent usually) and from that day forward, have blamed it for all sorts of BS.
Then there is the @nal retentive types, who bury their nose in a manual of any type..regardless of vintage and believe every word verbatim. If it is a Ford manual and specifies Ford oil, then come hell or high water, the moron believes it has to have that label on it (duh!, god help us). If it is a Farmall...they will search the nation, coast to coast, looking for HyTran. The list goes on and on.
As one gentleman stated, the oil they were using years ago, was inferior to anything on today's market.
How anybody, can go buy oil off the shelf and pour it in their new $35,000 automobile without fear, yet take a case of the dribbling $hits when it comes to using it in a worn out tractor, is beyond me.
People for the most part ignore me like a boil on their a$$.....(can't deny I am there, but resent the hell out of me being so) because I tell them what they don't want to hear.
Over and over again, these OIL questions are repeated. People have been raised to believe that there is magic in a bottle. Uncle Goober swore by brand X and cursed brand Y and therefore Opie is scared $hitless to use anything but brand X.
Then there is the person who ONCE upon a time had some problem, attributed it to a certain type of oil (detergent usually) and from that day forward, have blamed it for all sorts of BS.
Then there is the @nal retentive types, who bury their nose in a manual of any type..regardless of vintage and believe every word verbatim. If it is a Ford manual and specifies Ford oil, then come hell or high water, the moron believes it has to have that label on it (duh!, god help us). If it is a Farmall...they will search the nation, coast to coast, looking for HyTran. The list goes on and on.
As one gentleman stated, the oil they were using years ago, was inferior to anything on today's market.
How anybody, can go buy oil off the shelf and pour it in their new $35,000 automobile without fear, yet take a case of the dribbling $hits when it comes to using it in a worn out tractor, is beyond me.
Anonymous-0
Well-known Member
THANK YOU , Mark! IMHO, you are absolutely correct. You always need to check your oil at least daily under use. If it turns black in a day, change it (& filter) & keep on watching it. Common sense is a most uncommon thing!
Alan Golden
Member
Here in Oklahoma, I run a cheap detergent 30w in all my old tractors. The formulations nowadays are much better than what was made back in the 30s-40s-50s. Keep in mind the old tractors were built to run under tough conditions and tools, fuel, oil, etc was very basic at that time. Just keep an eye on the color of the oil and change it if it gets too dark too quickly. Dropping the pan and washing it out isn't mandatory, but wouldn't hurt either.
I've got no trouble finding it. NAPA carries NAPA brand and Valvoline non-detergent - quarts and pails. Tractor supply also has it under their own brand. I've got it here in quarts and five gallon pails.
In fact, my Oliver Cletrac requires non-detergent motor oil in the transmission. Anything else screws up the steering-brakes.
My neighbor has four Deere tractors that all were left-overs from his father's Deere dealership on the farm. 420, 530, and two 620s. None have ever had anything but non-detergent since new - so they certainly exist in some places.
In fact, my Oliver Cletrac requires non-detergent motor oil in the transmission. Anything else screws up the steering-brakes.
My neighbor has four Deere tractors that all were left-overs from his father's Deere dealership on the farm. 420, 530, and two 620s. None have ever had anything but non-detergent since new - so they certainly exist in some places.
buickanddeere
Well-known Member
My 1st car didn't burn oil.....at 1st.
Then a couple of oil changes and highway driving instead of it's previous life of traveling 1-3 town blocks per trip.
The old swine started to burn oil, blow smoke and oil changes were always interesting as to what what foreign substances would show up in the drain pan or shake out of the filter.
Most of the wise old grey beards around figured I had wrecked a perfectly good car by driving the living daylights out of it.
I suspect the oil had never been changed in 67,000 miles.
After 3-4 oil changes and 10-15,000 more miles. Oil use tapered off to a quart every 2000-3000 miles.
It took months of operation at speed and load with good oil to clean the crud out and let the rings seat instead of sludge sealing the cylinders.
As previously stated put some decent detergent oil in it and run your tractor.
b.t.w. If bush hogging. Get an over running clutch for the pto before your tractor kills you.
Then a couple of oil changes and highway driving instead of it's previous life of traveling 1-3 town blocks per trip.
The old swine started to burn oil, blow smoke and oil changes were always interesting as to what what foreign substances would show up in the drain pan or shake out of the filter.
Most of the wise old grey beards around figured I had wrecked a perfectly good car by driving the living daylights out of it.
I suspect the oil had never been changed in 67,000 miles.
After 3-4 oil changes and 10-15,000 more miles. Oil use tapered off to a quart every 2000-3000 miles.
It took months of operation at speed and load with good oil to clean the crud out and let the rings seat instead of sludge sealing the cylinders.
As previously stated put some decent detergent oil in it and run your tractor.
b.t.w. If bush hogging. Get an over running clutch for the pto before your tractor kills you.
The thing to do is switch to Rotella 15-40.You can find it lots of places,diesel specs are better than gas anyway,and it might actually clean it up.It is probably a good idea to remove the pan and clean the sludge out anyway no matter what oil you use.The biggest thing you have to worry about is the screen of your oil pickup getting plugged up with crud and causing damage.If its an old motor you dont know anything about its a good idea to pull the pan anyway,look at the bearings if the oil pressure is low maybe put them in.Of the motors I tore down,the ones that had Rotella 15-40 were the cleanest inside.The only thing that might happen is it might leak out the front and back seal.If it does it needs new main bearings and new seals anyway.
One time an old guy told me to drain the oil in his pickup and leave the filter on it and then put the plug back in the pan.I did.Then he poured a gallon of Diesel in it and fired it up and let it idle.Then drained that out and put new oil and filter back in it.He said he did that once in a while.Maybe he was on to something because that was in 1987 and he still has that old Chevy pickup,with the same motor in it,and he still drives it sometimes,and he drives the heck out of it,70mph everywhere.A clean motor is a happy motor.I dont know if I would go that far,but I would change the oil a few times if nothing else to get the sludge out.
One time an old guy told me to drain the oil in his pickup and leave the filter on it and then put the plug back in the pan.I did.Then he poured a gallon of Diesel in it and fired it up and let it idle.Then drained that out and put new oil and filter back in it.He said he did that once in a while.Maybe he was on to something because that was in 1987 and he still has that old Chevy pickup,with the same motor in it,and he still drives it sometimes,and he drives the heck out of it,70mph everywhere.A clean motor is a happy motor.I dont know if I would go that far,but I would change the oil a few times if nothing else to get the sludge out.
I wouldn't worry in the least bit about using detergent oil in it. For a small gas engine like that, I'd go with a 10W-30, espescially this ime of year if you live in a place that gets cold at all.
Unless you work it hard plowing etc. and put a lot of hours on it (not too common to work any old Ford N series that hard anymore) I wouldn't bother getting 15w-40 just for that tractor. If you have other tractors or use 15w-40 in anything else and you have it already, then I'd go ahead and use it because it would be convienient.
What brand of oil doesn't matter. Some guys say it's gotta be Shell's Rotella oil. Some swear by using JD brand oil. Truth is, any oil today is better than the oil of yesteryear and will be fine.
Donovan from Wisconsin
Unless you work it hard plowing etc. and put a lot of hours on it (not too common to work any old Ford N series that hard anymore) I wouldn't bother getting 15w-40 just for that tractor. If you have other tractors or use 15w-40 in anything else and you have it already, then I'd go ahead and use it because it would be convienient.
What brand of oil doesn't matter. Some guys say it's gotta be Shell's Rotella oil. Some swear by using JD brand oil. Truth is, any oil today is better than the oil of yesteryear and will be fine.
Donovan from Wisconsin
Anonymous-0
Well-known Member
A small percentage of the oil if filtered,get a good laugh when I see this statment.Can you prove this?
I think I'd just use a good diesel rated engine oil (detergent) and keep an eye on it if you're not certain what was in there. If you monitor it and it's getting dirty more quickly than it should, change it...
I can still get non-detergent 30 from Napa up here, but I'd have to specifically ask for it, and they only keep very small quantities. I'm sure they'd order more if I wanted it, but it's not a big stocking item.
FOr that reason alone I'd get it switched over. Non-detergent costs a fortune here too because they don't keep much of it...
Rod
I can still get non-detergent 30 from Napa up here, but I'd have to specifically ask for it, and they only keep very small quantities. I'm sure they'd order more if I wanted it, but it's not a big stocking item.
FOr that reason alone I'd get it switched over. Non-detergent costs a fortune here too because they don't keep much of it...
Rod
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