Tractor Tyrrrrrrrrre Repair-D.I.Y.

Well, I knew this was going to happen, several years ago, new rim, tire, tube 12 x 28 rim, 6 loop with 13.6 x 28 tire, loaded with CACL, valve stem leaked, dumb @ss young green tire guy who did the job said it would stop, at the time I was out of town for work, so it was left, well, figuring whatever damage it did, was let go too long, so just left it, and yesterday the valve shot out and now it's time to repair it. Good thing it happened in the yard.

Does not seem that the fluid got into the rim, but just around the hole is corroded, if the rest of the rim is ok, can this be repaired by welding, seems like a small flat area, cut, weld and grind smooth, paint etc. drill the hole, it would be fine, might just have to get another rim, whatever is best.

I've manhandled these tires around when loaded when I did the brakes on this 850 ford and watched the tire guy, (different one, well experienced, good work, but darned expensive) install a new one on a rim I sandblasted and painted with Zinc Rich Galv. spray. Looks like I could handle this so here goes.

Leave the rim and tire on the tractor, break the bead, this one will pop right off, tested that out already, will need to get a pair of irons/spoons to work the tire over the rim, then to repeat and get it off the rim, replace tire and tube, assuming inside bead goes on, then you fish that tube in there, seat the other bead, and as long as that tube is seated correctly, not bunched up etc, then you inflate/load the tire again. Think 14 psi is what is called for, forgot the amount of CALC for a 13.6 x 28, anyone have a table handy ?

What am I missing, will need the tire hand tools, have a can of bead sealer, need a tube, valve, possibly a rim, and the valve to load the tire, have a large rubbermad garbage can to mix up the CACL, also have drill pump, just not sure of any other tricks of the trade, I did watch that tire guy closely the last time, start to finish, does not seem out of my ability at all. The tire he put on has been no problem, 4 years now.


Hours at work been cut, budget says to do it in house instead of hired out.

Billy, you pretty much have it down. You don't need bead sealer, that's for tubeless tires. Use a slick dishwashing soap on the beads, helps things slide a lot easier.
Sometimes a pair of Vise-Grips clamped on the rim at about the 10 o'clock position will act as a third hand when you start to put the outside bead on.
Good luck.

here is a link to the calcium loading chart. when i break down a tire, i wire brush the rim and paint the insides with por 15 rust conversion primer. two coats, wait a day and remount the tire. other thing i do, is when the new tire is initially inflated, i get the tire up around 10-15 psi, then remove the valve core and let the tube deflate, then re-inflate it. that way if the tube is a little bunched up inside, it has a change to reposition itself. avoids a pinched tube.

here ya go' one more thing, when you mix the chloride, it gets hot, let it cool down before you pump it in.
calcium loading chart

click here
nother chart

Send me an e-mail and I'll send you a page from a 1935 JD-B owners manual that tell you how to fill those tubes and you do not need any fancy stuff to do so. I also have a page scanned that shows how to brake down tires
Hobby farm

Got it, little soapy water, vise grips, just have to find someone local who sells tire tools, Gemplers has them, but I'll see if the Napa warehouse/store sells any, could make them if need be. Definitely a situation where the right tool makes all the difference

Glennster, much appreciated, printed that PDF file out already and saved the link for the other. I've got a copy of Rich's (Old) JD tractor tire pamphlet too, thanks again !

My superA manual says to add lime to the mix to help prevent corrosion. Does anyone do it? Does it work?

drill a new hole in a different spot on the rim. then weld the old hole shut

Ron

wow you guys still using calcuim in your tires dont mean to pick but we dont use it any more eats up rims and also will eat valve stem then leak on your rim from out side we use widshild washer fluid or car antifreze some use r v antifreze i just fulled one today with windshild washer fluid its good to -20 f and that ok for here where you are you may need it to be good for colder so use car antifreze and it will do just fine and not cause you the truoble you have had and to full it i use a old air compresser tank 20 gal air hose conected at the bottom where you would drain the tank full it from the top need a 3/4 ball valve psi gauge and a snifter. mount valve at the top psi gauge and snifter blow valve put in 5or 10 gal at a time and then let the ari back out of tire ho take out the guts of your valve stem and the guts out of you air chuck it will go much faster

Billy NY As a retired tire man, I can tell you these guys are giving you good advice. With 1 exception. If you are doing tractor tires dish soap is NOT slick enough. If you have a tire shop you use on a regular basis, go to them and see if they will give you about a pint of tire mounting solution. It is far slicker and will cause you less problems.

Don't mean to hijack the thread, but where's a good place to get inner tubes online? I checked TSC and they don't have 14.00x14.75. Are there tire supply places that you can order the tire-mounting also?

JML, if you can't find a local ag tire supplier, 2 suppliers on the the web come to mind, Gemplers, they should have it, and Tucker Tire Company out of Tennesee, they have an e-bay store, and do sell tires mounted, ship same.

I've still got to get the supplies I need for this repair, same boat not sure who has what locally, may have to order off the web too.