djw

Member
Seems like every thing I grease lately ends up flying all over after I work it for a few hours. Are there different weights of grease or am I over greasing? I pump the gun till I see coming it out around the pin. thanks in advance, Dave
 
Maybe a little heavy, but there's very little machinery that can be overlubricated(magnetos, generators, & knotters come to mind). With a little experience, I count shots and judge it that way.
Paul
 
Yes and if you really want to get technical, try not to mix greases with different or incompatible soap bases, there is actually such a thing, but I'm really not sure how important it is, though I still like keep like things together, matter of preference.
 
you can over grease things grease able sealed bearing are the number one thing people over grease. u joints also if grease comes out you have pushed the seal out. in some cases moderation is better. things with out seals you can grease till it comes out
 
Saying you grease til you see the grease come out is kinda generic. When you say you see it flying all over, where are you talking about it coming from? If your greasing a universal joint until you see grease and not wiping off the excess then the grease is gonna fly, if your greasing a high temp area with a grease not rated for high temp then it's gonna "fly", if you use a non EP grease in an area under extreeme pressure then the grease isn't gonna have enough tackiness to stay put and is gonna have a tendency to "squish out" and "fly", if you over grease an area with a seal and the grease bursts/breaches the seal then it can "fly". In other words it could be over greasing, using the wrong type grease, a bad seal, etc etc. There are many variables as to why you may be having a problem but without a little more information it's hard to know what cause of the problem may be.
 
Seems to me that years ago that the way to tell a good clinging grease was to pump out a gob of it on a flat surface and smack it with a hammer. If it splattered, wrong type grease. I want to remember that molybedenum was the key ingredient to a good grease. If you use a cheap grease and use it too often, it's better than under greasing but a whole lot more of a mess that holds dirt and makes tractor restorers dislike you. ohfred
 
I used to use the cheap lithium grease and switched to Lucas heavy Duty grease. It now takes less than half the grease that it used too. It stays with it longer.
 
Yes, there's different weights of grease. There's at least 3 that i know of (EP 0, EP 1 and EP 2) with 2 being heaviest. Then there's different formulations and additives, etc.
I think you may find that using only one grease for everythign doesn't quite fit.
I've started using a Moly EP2 on pins and bushings. It seems to work well, but I wouldn't put that in a bearing. In the past I've used a couple of differnent EP2 Lithium complex greases that have high cling and high Timken load ratings. Those are not greases that you want in a grease system, bearing or any other tight channel. I find that they plug the nipples and bearings. The stuff just solidifies in there... so I've gone back to using a very basic EP2 lithium general purpose grease on bearings and other high speed parts and the EP2 Moly on pins. IN the cold weather I'll probably have to give up on the Moly because the EP2 won't pump unless I can get something lighter.
If you've got grease flying around, use a bit less... or don't worry about it.

Rod
 
more important than you would think....most litium complex greases are compatible, but mix lithium base with some others and it will either run or solidify, neither of which is good.

my dad is a certified lubrication specialist and can tell you more than you want to know about this subject.

as far as grades, it goes from 0000 to 6 (brick grease). most common is #2. we've used 0 or 00 in leaky gearboxes on mower decks, but for general greasing #2 works well except in extreme cold.

email is open if you want more info

smurph72*at*yahoo.com

dcm
 

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