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O-Rings

L

Lanse

Well-known Member
I looked at 3 auto parts stores for a sleeve puller, and got 3 really wierds looks. Seems you need some huge press for the newer stuff.

So i propped the block up and beat on them with a sledge hammer and block of wood. Thats accually the first thing thats gone according to plan in the last few weeks. Felt good.

I removed the remains of the old O rings and cleaned the sleeves up with a wire wheel. Now theyre soaking in carb dip.


I know everything here went right only because something else, something bigger and more expensive is about to go horribly wrong.

How do i install these O-rings??? I still have to hose down DickL's Rebuilt block (thanks again dick) and then i get to start assembleing it.

Im assuming that i just put these rings in the grooves on the sleeves, but haveing never done this before, i think i'll ask. Thanks guys.
 
I used white lithium grease to lube the orings in my engine, and then popped them in. Don't use penetrating oil or wd-40, or anything like that. It will cause the orings to deteriorate and leak. Clean motor oil works also.

Gary
 
You just slip them on Lance. DO NOT use any grease or oil but use dish washing liquid on them when you put the sleeves back in. Before you put the o-rings one make sure the sleeve will slip right in if they don't you still need to do some more cleaning in that block. BTDT a good number of times on Bs/Cs
Hobby farm
 
Clean the o-ring grooves as well as the recessed area at the top of the bore that the sleeves sit in. Make sure the top shoulder of the sleeve is clean as well. I use white grease like Gary does. I'm not sure what type of fit Allis Chalmers specs for those sleeves. With my F14, I was able to press them in by hand and tap them down with a piece of hardwood on top of the sleeve.
 
john deere has a special soap thats made for installing liner o-rings. it works better than regualar dish soap. any good deere dealer will know what youre talking about
 
By the way Lance I asked an AGCO dealer he was an Allis dealer for 50 years till AGCO took them over and his guys who had worked there for decades told me to use the dish soap so I'm pretty sure they knew what they where talking about, same dealer I got the o-rings from
Hobby farm
 

Lanse, Do Not use motor oil, white grease or silicone sealer. Dish soap or the special JD soap works well. You can also use shortening or vegetable oil if your Mom doesn't catch you in her kitchen. Petroleum based products will cause the O-rings to soften and distort. HTH, Jf
P.S. I've been a heavy equipment mechanic for 32 yrs and still screw stuff up now and then so hang in there!
 
You can use what ever you want to lube those O rings. They are O rings that are also used for hydraulic applacations. Same Type O ring that goes in a hydraulic cylinder. I buy all my O rings 50 in a pack from a hydraulic parts supplier. Lube the sealing area at the bottom as well.
 
Make sure the block is clean as it can be. I use wd-40 and fine grit sand paper. wipe it down real good. Dish soap works for me. Stan
 
i expect some lip but i have put o rings in about any piece of machinery you can think of one of the best on any o ring is KY jelly works good an radiator hoses to. keep a tube in my tool box all the time.
 
Dish washing liquid soap.Oil or grease makes the o-rings expand and they wont fit.No matter what you use,put it on the o rings just before you put the sleeve in one at a time.Dont soap all of them up and put them in next week.
 
What engine? If Allis, you should have the block and sleeves clean enough that you can set the sleeves in the block and turn them. Then install the O-RINGS made by Allis only for sleeves. Oil the O-RING and immediately install the sleeves in the block. The oil causes the O-RINGS to swell inproving the seal. This is how we did it on Dad's 190XT.

Kent
 
There"s lots of things you COULD use to lube the
O-rings---and lots of chances that they could
leak, and you"d have to do the job over.
Professional "O-RING LUBE" made by Dow-Corning,
or Parker is the best. It"s probably available
at NAPA or other parts stores, and there may be
other brands. It"s the only thing that we used
on Burlington Northern 3000 horsepower locomotive
engines, and I never had a "comeback".
 
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