Apron in front of Tractor Shop

Bookman · Sep 1, 2008

I am planning on putting a concrete apron in front of my tractor shop. I need to put some dirt there so the slop is not too steep. I don't have big tractor...biggest is Farmall 340 with loader and a Farmall Super H. Any recommendations as to thickness, rebar, and, most importantly, slope? What kind of experience have people had with fiberglass reinforcment? I probably will run it out 15 to 20 feet. And while I am asking, what should I expect as to cost? Probably hire it done since I am not a concrete person.

I am in central Nebraska.

Thanks in advance.

Bookman

Uncle Ernie · Sep 1, 2008

Find someone with experience and a good local reputation to advize you on the grading, reinforcement and slab. It WILL be worth the little bit of money extra it may cost.
My Nephew is dealing with a discount slab he bought done by the low bidder and suffering for it.

vinnywv · Sep 1, 2008

i have a run about 12 feet long wish i would have gone 15 but it does a good job. its 4 inch thick fiberglass reinforced with a five rebars only running the fifteen feet. not mentioned 26 ft wide. i have put my 471 massey with loader and 8ft brushhog on it with no worries or cracks. cost was around 98$ a yard, labor not too bad. total was 1600$. i was happy. west virginia.

bweb · Sep 1, 2008

In 1996 I had a driveway poured and had fiberglass put in it. It doesn't have any rebar or wire and it has held up great. I park my f250 on it and sometimes have a 16 foot trailer with a 3600 ford tractor on it. No cracks or concerns. The only thing bad is the city is going to widen our road and the whole driveway is going to have to be replaced.
Barry

El Toro · Sep 1, 2008

You should ask your friends if they would recommend anyone and have used them on concrete work. Make sure they're licensed in your state.
Hal

big hunter · Sep 1, 2008

make sure you have a good solid base, no soft spots, no fill that hasn't been compacted. A quarter inch per foot slope will shed water. If you ran it out 20 feet at a quarter inch per foot it would fall 5 inches. Handicap ramps are maximum one inch per foot. which would be pretty steep...20 feet equals 20 inches fall. You should use a "6 bag" "with air" and water reducer. I would pour it a full 4 inches thick, no less. no sure about the cost, 8 years ago I charged $2.50 a sq.ft. prep and pour. it has to be up to at least $3.50 maybe $4.50 a sq.ft. now

Bookman · Sep 1, 2008

Folks, Thanks for all the good advice.

Bookman

Roy in georgia · Sep 1, 2008

I had to remove some concrete that had the fiber in it and it fought me the whole way hated the stuff but decided then that if I ever pour something I want to stay FOREVER that is what I wanted. Just poured that 16x20 slab for a customer this past Friday. Concrete here in Ga. is around $95 plus $6 for fiber not sure on the labor rate as I traded it out for trans. work.

bigjt · Sep 2, 2008

Heres what I did over ten years ago and no cracks. Min 6" thick, used old woven wire for remesh. Poured inplace two posts that guard the door from dings on the corner.

Now what I wish I had done was to put in footings. This is just a floating slab and it does raise up about 2 inches in cold weather. Just makes a little bump at the door. Only Now I want to change the door to a bifold which will mate to the outside slab. Don't think that heave will be a big problem but would prefer it not be a issue at all.

I am in NW IA

jt

Apron in front of Tractor Shop

Bookman

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El Toro

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big hunter

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Roy in georgia

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bigjt

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