O/T House Siding

Bill in IL

Well-known Member
I know this is way off the left but need some experienced advice. Replacing the aluminum siding on the house and thinking of using fibercement siding vs vinyl.

Anyone have anything good or bad to say about fibercement?

I like the fact that it should last my lifetime just not real thrilled about having to paint it though.
 
The folks put the fiber stuff on my childhood home before I was born and never painted it. There are some spots starting to look rough after 30 years but mostly it still looks pretty good, if a little faded.
 
We were looking at it when we replaced the siding on our place and didn't get good reviews from a few contractors. They said it was easier to crack than wood or other options. It is also fairly heavy. In CA (where I am) we have to have earthquake resistant materials and that stuff wouldn't take a swaying house (unless we plywooded the entire thing and then cement boarded it). We didn't want to have to cover the house 2x. Also at a later point we were told it would be easier to drill through things other than the cement board if we wanted to add an exterior light etc. Just what we were told (by contractors and owners with the stuff).
 
There is a place here advertising seemless steel siding. I don't know much about it, but I just thought I would throw that out there as another option.
 
Fibercement - ie Hardi Panel is good stuff, but heavy. No Rot no termites and holds paint well.

Use stainless nails to hang it with.
 
Do they make stainless nails for a coil roofing gun. Was hoping to use that to hang it. I am thinking cause everything is caulked it should make a better weather barrier than vinyl siding.

I already have 7/16" osb hung for backer with house wrap and then 3/8" insulation over that. Looking to keep out the winter winds. Frost on the bedroom walls when its zero out with 40 mph winds really sucks.

I think steel would be a good option except then I have to pay someone to install it. I am a die hard DIYer. Had a window done last year against my better judgement and its in but I am not real happy with it.
 
I used the hardipanel to cover my detached garage about 6 years ago. Used a nailgun to put it up. It is heavy about 80lbs a sheet. It looks just as good now as when we put it up. You can't cut it with a regular blade. Need a fiber or diamond tipped blade, but then it cuts well. You will need some sort of filter to wear because of the dust. I'm building a 8'x8'building around my well and am using the hardipanel again.
 
The fibercement board is now available in different colors. Wish that was the case last year when we re-sided the cabin! Check around, not sure which manufacturers offer the colored stuff.
 
Bill; Hardie Panel has the same insurance rating asbrick or brick veneer. On your question about coil roofing nails, most of the people that is installing in Oklahoma is predrilling holes to nail through. I do not know about you, but I am not good enough shot to shoot through holes. A framing nailer will chip without predrilled holes. Jamesinok
 
You would want to use regular type of nails not roofing type. Or stainless steel decking screws.
Also any aluminum flashing used in contact with it needs to be the painted kind. Aluminum in contacts with concrete tends to go away, but the pre painted stuff works fine.

You can get the hardi panel type of stuff in many forms now, fake shingles, clapboards or t-111 type of sheets.
I would suspect the clapboards can be hung with roofing nails and I know for a fact that the fake wood shingles can be. Saw that on this old house.
 
This is My Trade ,SO, This is my Take ,, If you ,or your wife are prone to change things often , build on, or perhaps sellout and move to another home ?,, GO WITH VINYL , You cant beat the cost and reliability and cleanability of Vinyl, plus the cheap versatility of changing the whole exterior of a home every 10 yrs if You desire at a reasonable cost .. AND IT WILL WATERPROOF AND LAST AS LONG OR LONGER THAN FIBER CEMENT.. No reason Vinyl siding would not last a 100 years!
flip side , cement brd is tough , However the ENGinneers did a lousey job of waterproofing , CAULK EVERYWHERE And a 2 inch stay away boundary from everthing making a beautiful trimmed out house look choppy and irregular , Everyone knows within 10 years that CAULKING has had it , YUCK ,I HATE caulk , And Most of MY CUSTOMERS DISPISE THE LOOKS OF IT ALSO ,,./ If you have a simple no trim cracker box home the cement bd could work with minor headaches ,, We USE POWER AIR on all Cement bd Jobs ,,
WE Sell Them Both with The Same Strait Forward honest Approach , Best Regards Jim
 
I agree with you I've installed it on several houses ,spend a day just caulking then it looks like crap cuase the caulk doesnt macth the stain most of the time vinyl is the only way go there are many different grades and with his house he already has it pretty well sealed with the osb and 3/8 insulation.plus you can install in about 1/3 of the time as hardiplank and its not such a mess.
 
I have vinyl on a 25 year old garage its starting to get sort of brittle and a little dull looking. Maybe it just needs washed.

Have they improved vinyl since then? Is it worth it to go with a heavier guage Vinyl? Certian brand over another?

I do plan to be in this house a long time but planning an addition next few years and the aluminum will stay there for now.

Thanks for the heads up about the caulk. What do you use as flashing behind the joints. I had seen that in the installation instructions. Overall maintenance and cost is higher on fibercement I am just trying to figure out if its worth it.
 
I had my house done in vinyl even though my wife wanted hardiboard. I didn't want to paint it. A word of advice on vinyl. It is made in a variety of grades. Economy grade=thinner. Premium=thicker. Buy the premium grade. It will look much nicer on the house. The cheap stuff tends to look wavy and give vinyl it's bad rap. Your biggest expense will be the labor to install. Put good materials in their hands to get the best job. WATCH the contractor that he actually uses the grade you buy and doesn't substitute a cheaper grade. I caught mine trying to do that and had to jack him up about it.
 
We've had "cement siding" for 18 months now. Ask us again in twenty years for the whole story. So far, so good.

We chose it because vinyl siding looks like...vinyl siding. Cement won't warp like the vinyl does around here, and it looks like wood siding. {Re-doing a 120 year old home} I hate painting, too. The contractor said we would not have to do anything with it the rest of our lives. {I'm 50} Evidently, there are some tricks to putting it on right, because the lumber yard that sold it recommended a crew experienced with this stuff. It does seem to go on a little slower than vinyl.
 
I putting up Hardi. I using a roof nailer. Adjust the amout of presure until the head lays flat and tight. Use some Black felt behind each seam to allow the water that gets in the seam to flow out back on top of the siding. Also purchase some siding bracket from menards. They hook on the below peace and hold the board in place until you nail it.

Good luck
 
I replaced the pressed wood siding on my house shortly after moving in. We bricked the front and used Lowes vinyl siding around the rest. The only thing we changed was the addition of vapor barrier, or Tyvek I think they call it. It dropped our energy bills considerably. Not sure why, but there is a definite difference.

Dad used cement boad on his garage. He likes it, but I think it was pretty heavy stuff... I considered it, but I did not have the help necessary to hang it.

Good Luck,

Aaron
 
Yea the more I read I am thinking of staying with vinyl. Its super easy to put up. What is a good thickness to look for in premium siding. I know .040 is cheap is .043 thick enough to make a difference? Local lumberyard keeps that in stock.
 
When I built my home in 1999 I had the house framed with T111 siding, real wood siding.....Dumb on my part. I should have had vinyl siding put on, maintenance free.........the best siding there is.
Painting is time consuming and it is 6 buckets of paint to paint the house and garage. I did use the Behr paint stain which goes on like butter on toast, no primer needed. $78/5 gallons X 6 buckets + rollers, brushes...and time.
 
My 2 cents I hate vinyl AKA plastic siding in my book. I'm also getting ready to reside my late grandparents 100 year old farmhouse. They ripped off the wood siding in the 70 and put up that beautiful green plastic siding with buffalo board on the inside of it. We have billions of boxelder bugs and those orange stink bugs behind it. The same problem with vinyl siding , gaps on the corners for bugs. I like the looks of the old 4 inch wood siding. Vinyl just looks so cheap to me. Like is said my 2 cents.

Farmer
 
I think mine is .045 but I'm not sure. I have forgotten the brand. I'll do a search. I remember it is Charter Oak dutch lap. The lumber yard carry what people are likely to buy and most people buy the cheap stuff and their houses look it. Compare the difference in cost of the grades of vinyl to the fixed costs of the job. Also put tyvek on the house then foil faced Polyisocyanurate foam board. We used 3/4".
 
Cheap vinyl (.040")does look cheap, saggy and wavy. The good stuff (.045) Looks much better. It lays flatter and stays straighter. You probably don't realize it's vinyl. The cheap stuff stands out as crappy vinyl siding and the good stuff goes unnoticed for what it is.
 
My neighbor built a new house in 1993 and put on vinyl siding. Now it is faded so bad he has a two toned house depending on how the sun shines.
 
I just did a little web search and I used Alside Charter Oak dutch lap (.046") with contoured foam backing.
There is a wealth of info on the web on this subject . Do your homework before you buy. It'll pay.
 
They built about 500 homes behind me in 1985 and all had vinyl siding installed. Most sold for in the 300K range. In 3 years the vinyl was blowing
off. The neighbor behind me had his to blow off 3 times and his insurance Allstate dropped him for too many claims. They used heat pumps for heating and cooling in these homes and most of them just about froze during the winter and then had to install gas furnaces to keep warm. A lot the houses are 2 tone and 3 tone since it was hard to match the siding. You may be better off
with this cedar siding pic enclosed. Hal
PS: Their web site is www.cedar-valley.com
r2vj94.jpg
 
Do alot of siding, and my take on cement is make sure you can afford paint some day. I can promise you the moon, and never paint if you like. Also the thicker vinal isn't worth a nickle differance. The differance in thickness is equal to a spray mist of paint. Real good selling point for those who want to pay for the best. Thicker panels make the seams stand out more also.

Make sure if you choose a color that they have a double vft trim, or under sill trim. It takes alot of stress out of shiming to keep your vinal neat under windows and soffit.

Avoid the larger 18 inch panels, as the wind is more apt to get behind it, as it did with one house we did. The company man said we did a excelent job instaling, and they did make good on replacing two panels. We questioned the salesman when we installed it.

Coments are made about instaling vinal siding and getting sags, cheap looking etc. I will not start something, but 99% of the great crews, screw up. They are just from a ways away making them a great crew. Notice the new pickups, new trailers etc. that is perfection and any guess who is paying for all that new stuff?

Vinal siding must be ----HUNG---not freakin nailed. You should be able to slide every panel on your house when you get done.

I will also make a stament that 90% of those windows trimed out that look like 100% will leak water if I use a garden hose on them near the vertical j-chanels. Anyone can avoid the problem with less than 10 cents worth of material, and a nickles worth of time. READ the directions.

We always wrap coil stock on the corners before instaling the corners to keep mice out, and to make a stable surface to chalk line when doing 2-stories. Vinal corners are less than a stable product.

I also avoid colors in vinal, only white if you want to avoid fading. I do not know of any insurance company, auto or home owners that owe you a whole side of the house replaced.. They owe you for damaged panels only. And when it comes to colored vinal, you will see what three years can do for color fading.

A big problem we run into with numerous companies selling vinal, is not having a uniform product.

The first vinal we instaled was 1977, and the homeowner remarked a month or so ago, that it still looks great after they washed it.

Mold on the north side can be controled with a weak mixture of bleach and a sprayer.

There is little question in my mind about the cement board warrenty. It is probably just as good as the shingle, car, & weight loss adds. Yea, sorry that company sold out to another---bla bla bla.

Any idea what lifetime means in Wisconson in the court of law when addressing lifetime siding? Anyone guessing over seven years---yes that is not a mistake!---7---years has rose colored glasses on.
 
(quoted from post at 17:30:30 08/05/08) Do alot of siding, and my take on cement is make sure you can afford paint some day. I can promise you the moon, and never paint if you like. Also the thicker vinal isn't worth a nickle differance. The differance in thickness is equal to a spray mist of paint. Real good selling point for those who want to pay for the best. Thicker panels make the seams stand out more also.

Make sure if you choose a color that they have a double vft trim, or under sill trim. It takes alot of stress out of shiming to keep your vinal neat under windows and soffit.

Avoid the larger 18 inch panels, as the wind is more apt to get behind it, as it did with one house we did. The company man said we did a excelent job instaling, and they did make good on replacing two panels. We questioned the salesman when we installed it.

Coments are made about instaling vinal siding and getting sags, cheap looking etc. I will not start something, but 99% of the great crews, screw up. They are just from a ways away making them a great crew. Notice the new pickups, new trailers etc. that is perfection and any guess who is paying for all that new stuff?

Vinal siding must be ----HUNG---not freakin nailed. You should be able to slide every panel on your house when you get done.

I will also make a stament that 90% of those windows trimed out that look like 100% will leak water if I use a garden hose on them near the vertical j-chanels. Anyone can avoid the problem with less than 10 cents worth of material, and a nickles worth of time. READ the directions.

We always wrap coil stock on the corners before instaling the corners to keep mice out, and to make a stable surface to chalk line when doing 2-stories. Vinal corners are less than a stable product.

I also avoid colors in vinal, only white if you want to avoid fading. I do not know of any insurance company, auto or home owners that owe you a whole side of the house replaced.. They owe you for damaged panels only. And when it comes to colored vinal, you will see what three years can do for color fading.

A big problem we run into with numerous companies selling vinal, is not having a uniform product.

The first vinal we instaled was 1977, and the homeowner remarked a month or so ago, that it still looks great after they washed it.

Mold on the north side can be controled with a weak mixture of bleach and a sprayer.

There is little question in my mind about the cement board warrenty. It is probably just as good as the shingle, car, & weight loss adds. Yea, sorry that company sold out to another---bla bla bla.

Any idea what lifetime means in Wisconson in the court of law when addressing lifetime siding? Anyone guessing over seven years---yes that is not a mistake!---7---years has rose colored glasses on.

So is there anything to keep bugs from getting into and under the siding from the corners. The panels just float in the corner pieces.
Thanks

Farmer
 
Nothing at all, and they can if small enough get into the drip holes. I personaly have never heard of a problem with bugs. It is for sure something they could improve on. They could also get in around the J chanel on all windows without a doubt.

The problem in our area is more of bugs on the surface. A cheap spray usualy is very effective every couple of weeks, when the bugs are active. This is a big thank you to the Department of Ag. as they helped solve one problem, but then made a real mess with the bugs. The spray is supposed to be harmless to humans, but who realy knows.
 
Yogi Berra had a backyard fire get away and head for his garage. He called the fire dept and they asked him how to get to his house. "In those red trucks you guys drive" was his response.
 
Thanks , I also concur with all that NE IA listed in his post, Low cost vinyl is much better than thiker stuff .. I have been told 20 yrs back that more resin is used in the thin stuff,, Probably changed that now ,. i used to thick Extruded panels were tuffer than Post formed heat rolled ,, But golly a Wall of Plastic in the SUN is a wall of Plastic ,, UV lite will take its toll ,, No GUARUNTEE FOR BRITTLE CRACKED SIDING, But, All that said , $ for $ year after Year I would put my $ in vinyl instead of cement bd ,
 

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