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Can't take apart Hydraulic cylinder

A

Anonymous-0

Well-known Member
Hello everyone,
I am rebuilding an old Ingersoll backhoe from the mid 70's. It has 3 different cylinder types on it. Two I have dismantled and rebuilt. The third type I can't figure out how to dismantle. I has a slot cut in the side with a ring/clip shoved in it. The cap won't unscrew for nothing. Can someone look at these images and get me pointed in the right direction? I have been searching the web for a week. Thanks in advance,

Paul
Image link
 
Never seen one like that before, (corse thars lots I aint seen) It seems obvious that the cap unscrews at least to some extent, I guess it could just be one of those quarter-turn things though I cant see why it would be. I think Id try soaking the whole end in some blaster for a day or so and see if that loosens it up any. Failing that, it I guess its time drag out the smoke wrench! that'll loosen her up fer sure. Just curious, it looks pretty dry, was it leaking? if not, you might wanna consider just paintin it up and using it..."If it aint broke dont fix it"
Good Luck...OCG
 
saw one like that on a jd 410, power steering i think. i remember pushing that wire out. that was 20 years ago
 
Have you tried to tap out that clip with a hammer and punch?

In your picture you need to move the clip in an upwardly direction to remove it. The head gland should spin with it.

In other words don't tap it in you need to catch the end of it and either pull it out or tap it out.

Rotateing the head gland will also remove the clip. It is put in by rolling it in with the head gland.

Tapping the head gland back in a ways may help loosen it.

Once that clip is out the head gland should just pull out.

Hope you can understand what I am trying to say.

Gary
 
I just had one very similar to replace. The folks on the tool board helped tremendously. The ring has an end that must be pried out and the end cap rotated to "peel" it out and the end cap will or should come out. Looks like you will need some sort of special tool to rotate the end cap. Hope this helps and good luck!

Sid
 
the clip looks to be a waffle spring ( used in industy to hold coupling shrouds in place )
would shoot penetrating oil in the slot to loosen the rust & use a hammer & punch to tap the spring out ( clockwise when looking from the rod end ) then use the punch in the cap slots to tap it counter clockwise to loosen it once you get it cracked free you should be able to wench it hope this helps
 
You have done a real good job of cleaning up the cylinder for the photos. Usually cylinders of this type have a round wire with a 90 degree bend at the end. They incert the bend into the hole and use a spanner wrench to turn the end gland and roll the wire into the grove in the gland and cylinder tube. Yours looks like the wire is partcially missing so just turn the gland and look for a wire to appear and pry it up out of the slot. If that does not work I would make a wire and put the end in the hole and turn it a round to clean out any broken pieces stuck inside. Most new kits came with a new retaining wire.
 
DON'T use a torch on the cylinder! There is a very good chance you will flare out the end of the barrel. If you don't have the proper tool to turn the gland, try using a long punch to turn the gland. Also, tap the end of the barrel in the area of the gland (but not past it). That may loosen any rust that may be locking the gland to the barrel.

P.S. I rebuilt hyd actuators (i.e. cylinders) for over seven years so I guess I've run into every problem imaginable - yours looks like an easy fix.
 
Looks like your real issue is turning the gland, those slots aren't going to help you much. I would drill (2) 1/4 inch holes about 1/4 inch deep in the gland. center them between the rod and cyl. edge. Now you can use a pin type spanner to unscrew it. The lock wire will peel out. Some Case hyd cylinders are built this way , and they all use the pin method to unscrew it.
 
Looking at the pic,the gland is seized in the bore by rust.it looks like the gland is pushed out so the wire clip is to tight in the groove to move. spray the thing in W-40 or so and tap all around the cyl in the gland area to free it up, tap the gland back in and jerk the rod to get it back out,till you get some easy movement back and fort, this wire clip is shoved in the groove without having to rotate the gland,so it will have to come out first.I say that cause there ain't no provision on the outside of the gland to use a tool,and i have seen this setup before
 
Seems like I remember a similar setup on a 715 International throat cylinder. That is how I got it apart- roll,punch,pick,bend,pull,swear- anything you could do to get the wire clip ring out. Pretty sure the repair kit came with a new clip ring because I sure wrecked the old one getting it out.

The rust Paul has is gonna make his a bugger ! Maybe a hand held air hammer applied to the grooves in the cap then ratta tat tat ? Might bust the rust loose.
 
IaGary has the right idea, i did one of these the other day on an old mower. you need to be anble to get a pair of pliers onto the wire and then pull it out of the slot, like he said turning the cap helps, the trick is to get the wire out enough to grip, we used a very fine chisel and hammer to tap it backwards (clockwise it looks like in the photo. Failing that bring it to my place and hook it on the tractor i"m currently fixing, it will blow the end right off the cylinder (just did that to a brand new cylinder yesterday - hight pressure relief valve fell apart and we now have 4500psi plus at the remotes... joking aside these are a pig to do, good luck.
 
same set up on one of my forklifts. you need a spanner wrench to turn the end while pulling out the retaining ribbon. you can make a spanner with some flat stock, drill a couple holes to match the notches, then weld some short bolts on and file them flat like a screwdriver bit. you will need one at least 12 inches lond for some leverage.
 
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