Chisel plow point ?

Is it OK to run 3 twisted points on a rigid shank chisel plow? Been doing some searching and reading up on chisel plow points and on some other forums a few people commented that it isn't advisable to run 3 or 4 inch twisted points on rigid shanks due to them not having the give or flex of a spring loaded shank. Possibly breaking shanks more frequently than a spring loaded one. There's a pull type nine shank rigid shank that I'm looking at getting for my 1086 but I would like to run the twisted point for corn ground and 2 inch spikes on bean stubble.
Also posted in implement alley section
Thanks for any information or opinions
 
Not your answer, but, I have a very nice Unverferth 9 shank disc/chisel for sale. 4 new tires and new 4 inch points. But I am in central NY, and imagine you're far, far away!
 
I've got an old IH 55 chisel with 3 inch twisted points on rigid shanks. I haven't used it much but my wife's uncle used it for years that way before I bought it. We don't have rocks but do have tight gumbo clay. All the shanks look to be equally weathered so there's not evidence that he ever needed to replace any.
 
Just an educated guess, but rocks are probably your deciding factor. If you can moldboard plow with a toggle trip/manual reset style plow and not lose your mind from having to constantly back up and reset tripped bottoms, you're probably okay to put twist shanks on this chisel plow. On the other hand if you have an automatic reset plow and it pops a bottom 3-4 times each pass because you're turning over cobblestones, you probably want to look for a chisel plow with spring shanks.
 
Around here hard soil and rocks mandate running a chisel with spring loaded shanks. Even then you can still break bolts and shovels.
 
So a spring loaded shank trips when you feel the rocks with a rigid. The real question is how often do you feel that rumble? 5 times a field? Twice per year? How fast traveling? With the size of points they put on modern ones with wings who cares about a little twist that wont bother enough to scare me if its what I wanted to try. People like to blame a lot of things on broken shanks but it comes down to hitting stuff at a high rate of speed. I know its not as deep but My boss when I pulled the anhydrous bar at the coop was pretty sure my rigid shanks would be destroyed by me putting grade 8 bolts in the knives...I didnt say I was replacing the big shank bolts up top just the knives. Didnt loose a shank over 7500 acres at 7 mph. 3 shank bolts sheered always use the right shank bolt you want it to sheer
 

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