Electrical Problems

AllenC

New User
I have a 1963 Ford 2000. I have replaced the battery,silinoid,had the starter checked,new cable from the silinoid to the starter. It just want start unless I run a jumper wire to the silinoid and then the starter and cranks then,but if I try to start like normal,turn the switch on ,nothing. So when I do jump it with the jumper wire I can cut it off with the switch. Can someone help a green horn?
 

Have you checked the neutral safety start switch and the wiring associated with it, the solenoid, and the start switch?
 
(quoted from post at 10:02:53 11/16/23)
Have you checked the neutral safety start switch and the wiring associated with it, the solenoid, and the start switch?
I don't know how to check neutral safety switch,but the wiring looks good
 

h3bKya9.jpg


Does your tractor still have it's transmission-top neutral starter safety pushbutton (21)?

If so, you need the correct starter solenoid to go with it (27).

The correct solenoid is an ''insulated base'' solenoid with an internal connection between the stud where the battery cable attaches and it's coil. (Circuit 2.) It is activated when the starting pushbutton GROUNDS it.

If a more common solenoid (Circuit 1 or 3) has been installed it will not be activated by the starter button, as it is made opposite and needs battery power applied to it's little terminal.



BZpJp7Z.jpg
 
Allen, if you don't have an ohm meter, you can make a test light out of a bulb, and your jumper wire. Hook one of the bulb contacts to the jumper wire from the battery. Hook another jumper from the other bulb contact to one side of the safety switch. Take a third jumper from the other contact on the safety switch to a good ground, such as a clean bolt head. Move the shifter between a gear and neutral. The bulb should light when the shifter hits neutral. To test the light, take the second jumper from the bulb directly to the ground. It should light. You can use a volt/ohmmeter to do the same continuity test, using the ohm setting on the meter. Here's a pic of a light I made with an auto dash light and a couple of probes from a defunked meter:
cvphoto166818.jpg
This test light is always in my tool box. steve
 
(quoted from post at 11:00:20 11/16/23) Allen, if you don't have an ohm meter, you can make a test light out of a bulb, and your jumper wire. Hook one of the bulb contacts to the jumper wire from the battery. Hook another jumper from the other bulb contact to one side of the safety switch. Take a third jumper from the other contact on the safety switch to a good ground, such as a clean bolt head. Move the shifter between a gear and neutral. The bulb should light when the shifter hits neutral. To test the light, take the second jumper from the bulb directly to the ground. It should light. You can use a volt/ohmmeter to do the same continuity test, using the ohm setting on the meter. Here's a pic of a light I made with an auto dash light and a couple of probes from a defunked meter:
<img src=https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cvphotos/cvphoto166818.jpg> This test light is always in my tool box. steve




Thank you for your reply,I am going check that Thank you
 
(reply to post at 10:59:50 11/16/23)

I am blown away with your reply,Thank you.
I do have a push button switch.I took my solenoid took the local parts store and thats what I replaced it with.I am going to check my old solenoid to see if its still good. I sure do appreciate the huge effort to help me.
 
(quoted from post at 10:59:50 11/16/23)


Does your tractor still have it's transmission-top neutral starter safety pushbutton (21)?

If so, you need the correct starter solenoid to go with it (27).

The correct solenoid is an ''insulated base'' solenoid with an internal connection between the stud where the battery cable attaches and it's coil. (Circuit 2.) It is activated when the starting pushbutton GROUNDS it.

If a more common solenoid (Circuit 1 or 3) has been installed it will not be activated by the starter button, as it is made opposite and needs battery power applied to it's little terminal.



[img]https://i.imgur.com/BZpJp7Z.jpg


Ok I know your going think I probably stupid,but matter if the tractor is a 6 volt and solenoid has 4 studs?
 
(quoted from post at 16:10:02 11/16/23)
(quoted from post at 10:59:50 11/16/23)
h3bKya9.jpg


Does your tractor still have it's transmission-top neutral starter safety pushbutton (21)?

If so, you need the correct starter solenoid to go with it (27).

The correct solenoid is an ''insulated base'' solenoid with an internal connection between the stud where the battery cable attaches and it's coil. (Circuit 2.) It is activated when the starting pushbutton GROUNDS it.

If a more common solenoid (Circuit 1 or 3) has been installed it will not be activated by the starter button, as it is made opposite and needs battery power applied to it's little terminal.



BZpJp7Z.jpg


Ok I know your going think I probably stupid,but matter if the tractor is a 6 volt and solenoid has 4 studs?
'l defer to woreout to straighten it out, but I feel fairly certain that you tractor uses "circuit #4" solenoid.
 
(quoted from post at 13:50:12 11/16/23)
(quoted from post at 16:10:02 11/16/23)
(quoted from post at 10:59:50 11/16/23)
h3bKya9.jpg


Does your tractor still have it's transmission-top neutral starter safety pushbutton (21)?

If so, you need the correct starter solenoid to go with it (27).

The correct solenoid is an ''insulated base'' solenoid with an internal connection between the stud where the battery cable attaches and it's coil. (Circuit 2.) It is activated when the starting pushbutton GROUNDS it.

If a more common solenoid (Circuit 1 or 3) has been installed it will not be activated by the starter button, as it is made opposite and needs battery power applied to it's little terminal.



BZpJp7Z.jpg


Ok I know your going think I probably stupid,but matter if the tractor is a 6 volt and solenoid has 4 studs?
'l defer to woreout to straighten it out, but I feel fairly certain that you tractor uses "circuit #4" solenoid.

You are likely correct, Jesse.

The official parts lookup where I ''stole'' the drawing from shows a 6 Volt 1 terminal Circuit 1 solenoid in the drawing, but in the listing of key numbers it shows 3 options, a 6 Volt Circuit 1 solenoid, a 6 Volt Circuit 4 solenoid and a 12 Volt Circuit 4 solenoid.
 

Can I order the correct part for my Ford 2000 on here?[/quote]

YyB05a2.jpg

this site: Starter Solenoid, 6 Volt - This is a 4 post, 6 volt starter solenoid relay assembly. It has a flat mount. Insulated Base, does not ground through mounting bracket. Will work in tractors converted from 6 to 12 volts, using a 4 post solenoid. It replaces part numbers 311007FRGV, A604595, 311007, SW217, 311007FR. (Item #: 105690, Ref: 311007) $18.20
 

Can I order the correct part for my Ford 2000 on here?[/quote]

You need to know what part you need first. Check the neutral safety switch as was suggested. Check your push button start switch. I just got a bad one right out of the package for a MF TO-35. Get a wiring diagram and make sure it agrees with the way your tractor is wired. Using the print trace the start wiring from the battery all the way through to the solenoid and to ground.
 
Can I order the correct part for my Ford 2000 on here?[/quote]

You need to know what part you need first. Check the neutral safety switch as was suggested. Check your push button start switch. I just got a bad one right out of the package for a MF TO-35. Get a wiring diagram and make sure it agrees with the way your tractor is wired. Using the print trace the start wiring from the battery all the way through to the solenoid and to ground. Using a test light or meter you should be able to find where the start voltage (or ground) is being lost.

This post was edited by olddavid on 11/17/2023 at 01:08 pm.
 
Allen, remember to report back once you go though all the moves to solve your problem. UNLESS you want a bunch of grumpy old men and/or women grousing about the inconsiderate people they try to help. Don't eat too much dressing!!!! steve
 

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