dry Chevy engine

4 - 5 years ago I drained the motor oil from my 2001 Chevy 2500 6.0 liter engine. Now I want to start it up & wonder if I just pour oil in it & start it, will there be enough lubrication fast enough to not hurt the engine? Engines I have rebuilt we always oiled cylinders & pistons so they wouldn't damage upon starting. Wish they would't put so much stuff in the way of pulling the spark plugs. Didn't used to be so difficult.

I'm not sure if the 6.0 is the same as the old 5.7, but we would pull the distributor, flatten the end of a 1/4 rod to drive the oil pump with a drill to prime the system.

My thought, or disable the ignition and spin it with the starter until there's oil pressure.

I am wondering why a person would drain the oil and let it sit 5 years ? I say pull the coil wires and crank it over if you must. Or just start it and turn off the key while watching the guage. Then restart it. Or number 3 just start it.

If it where me I would pour some ATF down each cylinder and also pour it in the carb or air intake and let it sit a day or so. Then with the plugs out spin it over to empty the cylinder of any ATF still in the cylinder. Of course you also want to fill the pan with oil before even thinking about turning it over

No its not, it has 8 coils.

You would? I dont think u have seen a 6 litre g m engine.

HERE IS a Chev 2001 6L, let me know how your going to pour oil in each cylinder and down the carb... no carb. FI.

Unless you're going to hook into the main oil gallery and pressure lube the engine prior to startup, don't worry about it. Fill with oil and go. With a 6.0L, the only thing I would be at all worried about getting oil to pronto is the cam and lifters, and squirting oil in the cylinder isn't helping there.

Umm, Keith, that looks an awful lot like a 6.6L Duramax.

Even harder to pour oil in them cylinders. Lol.

OK, So I up loaded wrong image. ! didn't pay much attention to the image. here is the correct one... still hard to pour oil in it and down the carb. hhhmmm

The right way?
Pull the plugs and oil the cylinders rotate by hand first.
I prefer CRC Engine Stor for the foam expanding characteristics.
Leave plugs out, rags over plug holes and crank it over.
Too lazy to pull plugs?
Pull the intake, spray in lubricant and crank it over.

(quoted from post at 20:29:35 11/14/23) 4 - 5 years ago I drained the motor oil from my 2001 Chevy 2500 6.0 liter engine. Now I want to start it up & wonder if I just pour oil in it & start it, will there be enough lubrication fast enough to not hurt the engine? Engines I have rebuilt we always oiled cylinders & pistons so they wouldn't damage upon starting. Wish they would't put so much stuff in the way of pulling the spark plugs. Didn't used to be so difficult.

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Do not pour liquids down that intake. Unlike a TBI or carbureted engine it is not designed to flow air fuel mix.

I would not recommend cranking the engine over without the spark plug wires connected to the spark plugs or at least grounded out.

The oil pump is driven from the crankshaft directly on that engine. No easy way to turn it without rotating the crank...

If it were me, I would remove the oil filter, put a piece of hose several feet long into the supply side port and a small funnel into the other end. Then you can hold the funnel above the engine and slowly pour some oil in to prefill/prime the pump. Put the drain plug in, refill the oil, prefill the oil filter, pull the fuel pump relay out and with a fully charged battery crank it for about 15 seconds. Wait for about 30 seconds and repeat this cycle several times. After several cycles the oil pump should have primed enough to turn off the light and briefly register some pressure on the gauge when you stop cranking...

As for the fuel system, I have would add a full can of berryman's B12 chem tool to a 5 gallon can of fresh premium fuel and add that to whatever is in the tank prior to attempting to start it.

Reinsert the fuel pump relay, cycle the key switch on and off waiting 5 to 10 seconds each way, and then attempt to start it up.

My personal approach, your mileage may vary...

Carl

Yeah, Didn't even think about the lack of a distributor!!

So theres an ignition fuse to pull when its in a Silverado I believe. Will allow crank with no start. It being out means plugs would be easy to pull and would be as good a time as any to replace them. If it is out the starter can also be jumped as that wont give power to the ecm and would still spin it over. I dont think not being able to lubricate it from the plug hole would stop me from trying it. She wasnt cleaned up so there should be oil left on everything inside

I'm pretty sure the oil filter on that motor has an anti-drainback valve. Unless you pulled the filter when you drained the crankcase, the filter should be full of oil and the oil galleries probably still have oil in them.

Either just start it or tie a rope around it and drop overboard for an anchor like that's what they are worth.

Like Henry's plug spitting trash is any better...

After sitting that long I'd be concerned IF will start.
Dave

Typically the distributor drives the oil pump. I do this for every engine I assemble. I would also for an engine that sits for several years. I even have various oil pump drive adapters in my tool box for engines I typically work on. I would pull the distributor, then use a drill to spin the oil pump after you get pressure have someone crank the engine while yu are working the pump to make sure everything is lubricated.

Starting a dry engine puts more wear on them driving thousands of miles. You never know this because it takes a long time for the damage to show up.

So, if you just want to get it started so you can sell it to some unsuspecting person that you care nothing about, go for it.

If you are keeping it, or if care anything about someone you might sell it to, prime the pump before you start it!!!