Have friend with an engine that was rebuilt about 100 hours ago. Trouble is it sat outside, stack was covered but somehow moisture siezed it up. No water in the oil, but water got in intake and carburetor. Been putting atf/acetone mixture through the plugs for about 2 months, done weekly. With a wrench on the front pulley nut and rocking rear wheel still won't budge, and now for what ever reason the clutch seems to be slipping. Had valve cover off and the valves were stuck, but with a light tap on each they all came free. Anyone know of any better solution to free this up? Is it possible something other than stuck pistons it causing the seizure? Pulling the head doesn't really help much unless we pull the pan and remove the rod caps, and try to push them up individually correct? Is there less chance of breaking a ring land this way? 44 MH gas
- Thread starter Cash4Toys
- Start date
my father in law locked up his 9N using either in it (pretty sure anyway).
we he put atf in his and were able to budge it free bumping the starter. Had no luck rocking the wheels.
my Case 730 that had an open exhaust wouldn't come free until i broke the wrist pins loose by drilling and chiseling out #2 and #3 pistons. 1 and 4 slid right out.
if the exhaust was covered seems odd that he had that much trouble but shouldn't be too hard to get it loose. there are a variety of concoctions people have used to soak them free. you'll get 10 different answers on which is best.
we he put atf in his and were able to budge it free bumping the starter. Had no luck rocking the wheels.
my Case 730 that had an open exhaust wouldn't come free until i broke the wrist pins loose by drilling and chiseling out #2 and #3 pistons. 1 and 4 slid right out.
if the exhaust was covered seems odd that he had that much trouble but shouldn't be too hard to get it loose. there are a variety of concoctions people have used to soak them free. you'll get 10 different answers on which is best.
rustred
Well-known Member
Time to
Pull the head. Get a round hardwood the bore size and then a 12 lb. Sledge. Give each one a snack. I like to use the actuall post mall as its flat and just letting it drop with its own weight works good. Plus if the cylinder has rust in it hone the rust out. Pistons can take a lot smacking them from the top. Rocking them with the rear tire u will break the piston off at the wrist pin pulling it down. To get a piston to move it has to go down first with a smack. Engine parts are getting very hard to find for them continentals.
Pull the head. Get a round hardwood the bore size and then a 12 lb. Sledge. Give each one a snack. I like to use the actuall post mall as its flat and just letting it drop with its own weight works good. Plus if the cylinder has rust in it hone the rust out. Pistons can take a lot smacking them from the top. Rocking them with the rear tire u will break the piston off at the wrist pin pulling it down. To get a piston to move it has to go down first with a smack. Engine parts are getting very hard to find for them continentals.
redforlife
Well-known Member
My theory - - - if a person neglected an engine in some way that the engine froze up, it doesn't really do a whole lot of good to free it up for them so they can do some more neglecting and let it seize up again.
If they free it up themself, they may learn something (not to let that happen again). Or if they sell it as is, they might learn something from the price depreciated by froze engine. But if a friend comes along and saves the day (frees up the engine), they seem to not learn much from it, and likely won't change thier ways (neglect).
Just something to think about, before you fully involve yourself in this. I'm not trying to sound like a hard a$$ here, but I won't go through the grief of freeing a froze engine for somebody else. Especially if the somebody is responsible for it getting locked up.
Sounds like you are on the right track otherwise. A froze engine is just a lot of grief to get un-locked. A grief that doesn't pay out very well. Alot of trouble to get back to where it was (free) before it froze up.
If they free it up themself, they may learn something (not to let that happen again). Or if they sell it as is, they might learn something from the price depreciated by froze engine. But if a friend comes along and saves the day (frees up the engine), they seem to not learn much from it, and likely won't change thier ways (neglect).
Just something to think about, before you fully involve yourself in this. I'm not trying to sound like a hard a$$ here, but I won't go through the grief of freeing a froze engine for somebody else. Especially if the somebody is responsible for it getting locked up.
Sounds like you are on the right track otherwise. A froze engine is just a lot of grief to get un-locked. A grief that doesn't pay out very well. Alot of trouble to get back to where it was (free) before it froze up.
olgentdc
Well-known Member
weld or fasten a hydraulic fitting to a old spark plug threads ,,. fasten that in the cylander that is on the up stroke. hook up to a tractor remote and give it a nudge
flying belgian
Well-known Member
About 100 hrs ago. Does that mean its been sitting out unused for 10 years or 1 year?
Makes a difference to what approach to use.
Makes a difference to what approach to use.
gene bender
Well-known Member
JUST pull tyhe head then and only then you will be able to see wwhere and why it is stuck
Fixingfarmer
Member
Pan down could help you more than you think. You will know what hole is the problem when you unbolt the cap and spin. Its also easier to do one at a time if you get to the fourth and its just like you say busting them all loose but one at a time. If you are lucky and can reach a few nuts where the crank is which in most cases you can. Turn crank get one loose put cap back on number two etc etc...last inline 4 I had to lock up it was a bent crank at the journal of number 3 connecting rod. Since its a fresh rebuild you will most likely have 3 moving easy like butter with this method. Then the real problem...
Appreciate the responses. It sat out for two years, but was covered, ran out of room in the shed. Was last used on an auger after rebuild, and it was a complete rebuild, head as well.
About six weeks ago I looked in the cylinders with a bore site, and looked really clean, no rust or carbon. Thought for sure the atf-acetone would work. Pulling the head alone won't help much, as I don't see how a person could drive them down as a unit intact. Would still have isolate each one, so wouldn't the crank have to come out first? Thought about pulling pan, backing the rocker arms off to close the valves on the pistons on the down stroke and then put air pressure to those. Never thought about breaking a piston at the pin on the down stroke. Was just thinking, what if someone tried the starter at sometime and it got locked up? Could that be wedged in there and causing the seizure?
About six weeks ago I looked in the cylinders with a bore site, and looked really clean, no rust or carbon. Thought for sure the atf-acetone would work. Pulling the head alone won't help much, as I don't see how a person could drive them down as a unit intact. Would still have isolate each one, so wouldn't the crank have to come out first? Thought about pulling pan, backing the rocker arms off to close the valves on the pistons on the down stroke and then put air pressure to those. Never thought about breaking a piston at the pin on the down stroke. Was just thinking, what if someone tried the starter at sometime and it got locked up? Could that be wedged in there and causing the seizure?
teddy52food
Well-known Member
Pull the starter and use a long pry bar on the flywheel teeth working both ways.
flying belgian
Well-known Member
Ran out of room in th shed? I can't imagine what was more important to keep in th shed then the tractor.
Steve A W
Member
- Location
- Northwest Indiana
old
Well-known Member
- Location
- Camdenton Missouri
If it has any water in the cylinders there is no way ATF can get to the rings to free them up since ATF floats on water. Add some HEET to a bottle of ATF shake it up good and then pout it in the cylinders. That will remove the water enough that the ATF can do its thing
John Deere D
Well-known Member
This W-9 had sat outside for years..Engine was stuck..
Fortunately all pistons were mid stroke...not bottom DC or top DC..
Pulled the head.
Honed the cylinder bores..
Sprayed KROIL penetrating fluid into each cylinder..
Left for 24 hrs..
Set a piece of well seasoned Maple block on pistons..
Applied a sledge hammer to Maple block..
Spun engine over on starter....
Fortunately all pistons were mid stroke...not bottom DC or top DC..
Pulled the head.
Honed the cylinder bores..
Sprayed KROIL penetrating fluid into each cylinder..
Left for 24 hrs..
Set a piece of well seasoned Maple block on pistons..
Applied a sledge hammer to Maple block..
Spun engine over on starter....
I freed up a longer neglected and larger engine last spring. You started out OK- my details.: 1, start with Marval Mystery oil to lub + remove water.
2. Then Xylene + atf a bit better, acetone ok. 3. Note any cylinders that drain + those that don't. It got stuck slowly so free her up slowly. Be
Patient! 4. Always save the adverb. Last- Pray the redneck 'smash it with a sledge guys learn to buy Jap, Indian, and Chinese crap! Best Luck- if
and when she moves but an inch, you got her licked and will feal great!
2. Then Xylene + atf a bit better, acetone ok. 3. Note any cylinders that drain + those that don't. It got stuck slowly so free her up slowly. Be
Patient! 4. Always save the adverb. Last- Pray the redneck 'smash it with a sledge guys learn to buy Jap, Indian, and Chinese crap! Best Luck- if
and when she moves but an inch, you got her licked and will feal great!
rustred
Well-known Member
its the shock of the pistons , they wont move with 4 stuck ones. you need to go through each piston. plus first you must have everything clean and use air to blow out the pistons to cylinder clearance. then u put in your juice and smack them . you will see the juice jumping right out past the wooden block. and the other think i have done is unbolt the rods and have pressure on the rod with a jack . then smack the block on top and the whole sleeve will pop out. they might pop out just with the jack also. that is why its stuck so bad because you have no extra clearance with new stuff. and yes hitting the starter has way more power than using a bar. it also is a good idea to plug the block in if it has a block heater. that is way more effective than a fire on top the pistons. tryed that and it dont work. you want the sleeve to expand not the piston.
BarnyardEngineering
Well-known Member
- Location
- Rochester, NY
It's a long shot but it's a lot less work than pulling the head or the pan. You may not get much past loosening the bolts before you hear a "click" as the starter drive retracts and the engine is free.
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