Ammeter

550Doug · Nov 7, 2023

I'd like to install an ammeter on my IH 434 gas tractor that has a generator warning light on the dash. Can I use the wiring of this light?
Also, there is a one inch hole already in the dash that would need to be enlarged to 2 inches. Is there an easy way to do this?
Thanks In Advance

Janicholson · Nov 7, 2023

No. The light circuit is not carrying load. (disconnect the battery before doing this) At the starter solenoid a single big wire comes from the battery. on that same post
is a smaller (10 gauge) wire going to the Bat terminal of the Regulator. Disconnect it and splice a 10 gauge new wire to it. Run that wire up to the location of the amp
gauge. From the amp gauge run another 10 gauge wire back to that dame post and connect it where the first wire was removed. This puts the amp meter in series with all
tractor loads, into and out of the battery. (except starter load which is in hundreds of amps. The link is to a chassis punch. Buy or borrow one from an electrocal
contractor. Jim

super99 · Nov 7, 2023

Just a suggestion, I replaced the tach on my Oliver 550,
the new one was smaller, fell through the hole, friend with
a laser cut and ring to fit the tach and larger than the
hole. If you can get a similar ring, cut the hole bigger and
use the ring to install making a neat fit. Chris

Bob Bancroft · Nov 7, 2023

I did this many years ago on Dads JD 2510 gas, just as Janicholson describes. A voltmeter is a simpler installation. How about
one of them?

Tom in TN · Nov 7, 2023

Jan,

Is that tool commonly called a Greenlee Punch? That's probably a brand name, but it's like using a ''Crescent'' wrench.

Tom in TN

Steve A W · Nov 7, 2023

If you have a hole saw kit, double stack the one inch
with the size you need for the meter.
The one inch will keep the saw centered in the hole.

Brian G. NY · Nov 7, 2023

(quoted from post at 02:57:22 11/08/23) If you have a hole saw kit, double stack the one inch
with the size you need for the meter.
The one inch will keep the saw centered in the hole.

Now, that seems like a good idea.

37 chief · Nov 7, 2023

I've used those a few times in my previous life as a factory maintenance Mechanic. Stan

Tony in SD · Nov 8, 2023

X2 what Janicholson said, including the knockout punch. The punch will give you a clean hole with no metal filings getting into places you dont want them to be. Especially electrical places where they could short circuit.

Hemmjo · Nov 8, 2023

A voltmeter is a better option got monitoring the status of your charging system. Also does not require such heavy wire.

showcrop · Nov 8, 2023

(quoted from post at 17:26:12 11/07/23) Jan,

Is that tool commonly called a Greenlee Punch? That's probably a brand name, but it's like using a ''Crescent'' wrench.

Tom in TN

50 years ago I was using one of those Greenlee knockout punches pretty frequently. I think that we switched over to hole saws just because they were faster, then the manufacturers started shipping the machines with the holes already in them.

Geo-TH,In · Nov 8, 2023

Can I use the wiring of this light? NO

I have both an idiot light and ammeter on my 1950
Farmall C.

When the light goes off, the ammeter is charging.

I can kill the tractor without using the key to
Short out the mag. I like the light. It tells me
to turn the key off.

If you just want a meter to trouble shoot the
charging system, this is a clamp on DC AMMETER
and costs under $40 on amazon. Also a very
accurate volt and ohm meter. I don't leave home
without this meter.

Janicholson · Nov 8, 2023

They are often refered to as that, as in Kleenex. Jim

550Doug · Nov 8, 2023

(quoted from post at 17:53:53 11/07/23) No. The light circuit is not carrying load. (disconnect the battery before doing this) At the starter solenoid a single big wire comes from the battery. on that same post
is a smaller (10 gauge) wire going to the Bat terminal of the Regulator. Disconnect it and splice a 10 gauge new wire to it. Run that wire up to the location of the amp
gauge. From the amp gauge run another 10 gauge wire back to that dame post and connect it where the first wire was removed. This puts the amp meter in series with all
tractor loads, into and out of the battery. (except starter load which is in hundreds of amps. The link is to a chassis punch. Buy or borrow one from an electrocal
contractor. Jim
<img src=https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cvphotos/cvphoto166221.jpg>

Thanks for all the comments and ideas.
I following pictures are from amazon (MGI SpeedWare 2-in-1 Voltmeter/Ammeter 12vDC) and it looks like it could work for me. It needs a 1.125 hole and I have a 1.0625 hole, so I think I can make it work. I'm a little confused about the light in the picture being a load needed. What else could be used as the load?

Jim.ME · Nov 8, 2023

(quoted from post at 12:07:48 11/08/23)

(quoted from post at 17:53:53 11/07/23) No. The light circuit is not carrying load. (disconnect the battery before doing this) At the starter solenoid a single big wire comes from the battery. on that same post
is a smaller (10 gauge) wire going to the Bat terminal of the Regulator. Disconnect it and splice a 10 gauge new wire to it. Run that wire up to the location of the amp
gauge. From the amp gauge run another 10 gauge wire back to that dame post and connect it where the first wire was removed. This puts the amp meter in series with all
tractor loads, into and out of the battery. (except starter load which is in hundreds of amps. The link is to a chassis punch. Buy or borrow one from an electrocal
contractor. Jim
<img src=https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cvphotos/cvphoto166221.jpg>

Click to expand...

Thanks for all the comments and ideas.
I following pictures are from amazon (MGI SpeedWare 2-in-1 Voltmeter/Ammeter 12vDC) and it looks like it could work for me. It needs a 1.125 hole and I have a 1.0625 hole, so I think I can make it work. I'm a little confused about the light in the picture being a load needed. What else could be used as the load?

From reading the description on Amazon it says it [u:350cdaa47e]does not[/u:350cdaa47e] measure charging voltage, and the wiring shown looks to be just voltmeter wiring, with a light thrown in for confusion. I can't see where it is a meaningful ammeter. It should be in a switched circuit or it will be a steady battery drain even when the engine is not running. Wouldn't be my choice, just my thoughts.

Hemmjo · Nov 8, 2023

A real volt meter for a tractor, that can get rained on a few times, is only about $20. You can also get one locally.

Janicholson · Nov 8, 2023

The light shown in the illustration is the total load on the circuit. Read the product description. The amp meter must read both positive amp flow and negative amp flow. If the display doesn't allow for charging the battery, It will not work as desired. It looks like the volt meter would work if the Positive (shown connected to the battery +) was switched by the output of the ignition switch. The way it is shown the meter would be lit up all the time. The amp component would be just wrong. I read the product info and it clearly states does not measure charging current. Jim

Janicholson · Nov 8, 2023

A simple amp meter as discussed is the ticket. A volt only meter is also good. Water resistant meters in 2 inch holes are needed. cool looking digital devices are OK inside a car. Jim

stevieb49829 · Nov 8, 2023

You can also drill a 2'' holesaw hole in a chunk of 1/2'' plywood, clamp it in place and use it as an OUTSIDE guide hole for the holesaw. But then you do have the metal shavings to deal with.

used red MN · Nov 11, 2023

Not sure how valid this is it is all dependent on the circuitry of the voltmeter. I am not sure if you tractor has a generator or an alternator. One thing that you may keep in mind is if it has a generator there is s possibility the inherent electrical noise of those systems with a voltage regulator can cause a digital meter to give confused inaccurate readings. I know it can happen with cheap multimeters. In that case an analog or ..needle type.. voltmeter is better.

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