I have a 2005 JD 5105 that is leaking. May be a fuel line, may be the sending unit on bottom of tank. I did a quick inspection and could not determine source and will have to wash tractor down to pinpoint. A new replacement tank is out of the question $2100.00+ My question is, what is the best method to patch a crack, epoxy resin or plastic weld? Tank is black poly? plastic. I did not like that when I bought the tractor and knew somewhere down the road the tank would eventually fail. Tractor is stored under open shed and is pretty much protected from direct sun and rain. Replacement would have to call for fabrication of a metal tank. Wouldn't be pretty but would be functional.
- Thread starter Jim in LA
- Start date
Janicholson
Well-known Member
Poly tanks can be very successfully welded using commonly available plastic repair tools. using the appropriate filler material and controlled heat is essential. Practice making welds for a few hours on salvaged lawn mower tanks. it is not as difficult a metal welding. Going as deep as the fracture is important as well as building some thickness where the leak is, on th outside. the reinforcement mesh allows strength to be built into the repair. Jim
an example of the tool.
an example of the tool.
rustred
Well-known Member
i will trust my soldering on a metal tank way before patching a plastic tank. i am sure them engineers have some crazy stuff in that plastic
so it cant melted again and fixed. diesel and plastic, i dont know. jb weld does work on metal but have never tryed it on a plastic tank.
hard to say.
so it cant melted again and fixed. diesel and plastic, i dont know. jb weld does work on metal but have never tryed it on a plastic tank.
hard to say.
MARK ROBKE
Well-known Member
I agree. I know someone who poked a hole in their plastic tank, and successfully patched it with plastic welding and sacrificial piece (same type) of plastic. Mark.
There are a couple ways to fix it. I have done both with
success
I have welded 3 diesel tanks on tractors. I use
heatvgun to warm the area and keep it warm. Brake
clean and wire brush to make it spotless clean
Saran Wrap for the weld.
Take Saran Wrap in a speed drill and squat it into a
stick. Make sure it is very clean. Heat the area and use
an electric wood burning tool as the melter. Slowly
burn into the tank filling with plastic as you go. Layer
on layer till you think its strong enough not to break
again.
The underside of tanks I find flex to much do there I
use high heat silicone and steel plates. The biggest
plate that fits in the filler hole. I put one on the inside
and one on the outside.
Inside one needs no silicone. Pre drill and weld nuts
onto the one inside. The one on the outside use lots of
silicone and bolt together. Sometimes you need to
weld wire to it and break it off when finished.
Magnets taped to sticks works. Sometimes a
magnetic through the tank works to move it around a
bit.
I have not had one fail that I fixed yet. Knock on wood.
It is way easier if the tank is off no matter which
method you use.
success
I have welded 3 diesel tanks on tractors. I use
heatvgun to warm the area and keep it warm. Brake
clean and wire brush to make it spotless clean
Saran Wrap for the weld.
Take Saran Wrap in a speed drill and squat it into a
stick. Make sure it is very clean. Heat the area and use
an electric wood burning tool as the melter. Slowly
burn into the tank filling with plastic as you go. Layer
on layer till you think its strong enough not to break
again.
The underside of tanks I find flex to much do there I
use high heat silicone and steel plates. The biggest
plate that fits in the filler hole. I put one on the inside
and one on the outside.
Inside one needs no silicone. Pre drill and weld nuts
onto the one inside. The one on the outside use lots of
silicone and bolt together. Sometimes you need to
weld wire to it and break it off when finished.
Magnets taped to sticks works. Sometimes a
magnetic through the tank works to move it around a
bit.
I have not had one fail that I fixed yet. Knock on wood.
It is way easier if the tank is off no matter which
method you use.
Hemmjo
Member
As the first poster mentioned you can weld certain type of plastic. The real problem is figuring out what type of plastic you are working with. I have two old 1997 jet skis. The oil injection tanks are plastic. Fortunately I have switched them from oil injection to premix as one day I opened hatch to fine one of them in pieces in the bottom of the boat.
All types of plastic degrade, not only from sun but also they just age. If your tank split, it split at the weakest place, but the other places are also weak, unless the hole is from mechanical damage.
I am not saying don't try it, just something to consider. The repair should be your first option.
There are lots of various shaped tanks made for boats that would not cost $1200
You can also get bladder type fuel tanks that will fit into odd places. If the repair is not successful you might cut the top off your leaking tank and put a bladder into it. I cannot put two links here so search for fuel tank bladder
All types of plastic degrade, not only from sun but also they just age. If your tank split, it split at the weakest place, but the other places are also weak, unless the hole is from mechanical damage.
I am not saying don't try it, just something to consider. The repair should be your first option.
There are lots of various shaped tanks made for boats that would not cost $1200
You can also get bladder type fuel tanks that will fit into odd places. If the repair is not successful you might cut the top off your leaking tank and put a bladder into it. I cannot put two links here so search for fuel tank bladder
In my experience nothing will stick to any plastic very long. The hot air gun is your best bet. Harbor freight sells a hot air gun, that comes with
several types of plastic rods at least they did. You suppl your own air.Get one with just a plain tip. You can heat the plastic and work the rod into
the crack. The main problem is finding the plastic rod that the tank is made of. Do a practice on the tank someplace to see if the plastic rod sticks
to your tank. just go slow don't over heat the plastic. There should be good info on the net about plastic welding. Stan
several types of plastic rods at least they did. You suppl your own air.Get one with just a plain tip. You can heat the plastic and work the rod into
the crack. The main problem is finding the plastic rod that the tank is made of. Do a practice on the tank someplace to see if the plastic rod sticks
to your tank. just go slow don't over heat the plastic. There should be good info on the net about plastic welding. Stan
M-MAN
Well-known Member
- Location
- Bostic, NC
Plastic weld. The el cheapo from Harbor
freight works fine. Just don't use their
rods. The tank will be stamped with the
type plastic it is. Once you find that
order the appropriate rods and you'll be
fine. It does take some time to properly
fill the cracks or holes.
freight works fine. Just don't use their
rods. The tank will be stamped with the
type plastic it is. Once you find that
order the appropriate rods and you'll be
fine. It does take some time to properly
fill the cracks or holes.
GeneMO
Well-known Member
- Location
- Pilot Grove, Mo.
One thing that won us WWII was self sealing fuel tanks in our aircraft. They were rubber bladders and would seal over when a bullet went through. Now, granted, they were made to fit the space, and not really just a big rubber inner tube. I wonder if there is a rubber liner, maybe made after market just to fit that tank?? Do not know. Gene
Brendon-KS
Well-known Member
- Location
- Goessel, KS
The type of plastic used for your tank is very likely cross-linked polyethylene that has been rotationally molded. This is a common, low-cost material for fuel tanks and hydraulic
reservoirs that don't get above about 175 F.
reservoirs that don't get above about 175 F.
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