Is my Jubilee's valves getting enough oil?

I am beginning to think my stuck exhaust valve was caused by the lack of oil on the valve stems.

Lack of oil would explain why the little oil on the head looked like Milk. Not enough oil to wash the milky oil into the crankcase.

I posted a pic on Ford talk.




Link to my post on Ford talk.

Your stuck valve could be caused by water in the oil. That is why the oil is milky. Drain the oil, see if ALL of the oil is milky!! If it is, you need to find the source of the water.

Wouldn't a valve stick if there is no oil on it?
Isn't the water in the oil indicative of not enough oil getting to the valves to flush it to the crankcase where the water will end up in the bottom of the crankcase?

My guess would be water in cooling system leaking by a leaky head gasket or a crack in the head or block casting. Yes, milky colored oil has water or coolant in it. The question is WHERE it's leaking in.
Maybe try something like BARS Stop-Leak, simply pour it in the cooling system per the instructions.

My Super H was built at FARMALL in Rock Island about 3 months before I was born in 1954, I'll be 70 next spring and the cylinder head has NEVER been off that engine. The '51 M Dad bought new has had the head off twice when the engine was overhauled. It was the 2nd string fieldwork tractor, loader tractor, wore a 2M-E mounted picker every fall for over 20 years and 200+ acres per year, our 80 acres plus an additional 40 or 80 acres on rented ground plus another 120 acres at Grandpa's, He actually owned the picker. When the picker came off the M ground about 8000 bushels of earcorn for cattle feed.

It doesn't look like you're getting a lot of oil to the valve train, but I doubt that has anything to do with your stuck valve. There are seals on the valve stems that prevent oil getting into the valve guides. If the valve guides require lubrication, every brand-new motor would have stuck valves.

As long as oil is getting to all the rocker arms, I think the valve train is getting adequate lubrication.

Old gas that is a little varnishy can stick them too. Sometimes i pump dextron transmission fluid down the intake while they are running to lube things up. And get rid of mosquitos.

Water would not have anything to do with the amount of oil getting to the valves. IT would be more of an indication you don't run it enough to evaporate the water condensed in the engine and transmission out of the oil. It just flat needs to run more each year mow the yard with it about once per month or haul some dirt around with it take it to a plow day to work it's tail off for a day anything to keep it warmed up and running long enough to get the condensation out of the engine and transmission. IF you have that much in the engine imagine what in the transmission.

Some engines don't flood the top end with oil by metering the oil through a cam bearing port. Oil can only pass when the ports align through a cam bearing journal that remember turns 1/2 crankshaft speed. Engine needs to be RUN more often to burn off the condensation moisture.

Water in the engine causes rust. That alone will cause a valve stem to seize inside the guide. Get that moisture out of your engine. Drain the crankcase and refill but, leave 1 qt. low. Then add a qt. of Motor flush such as Rislon to the crankcase. Start the engine and get it up to operating temp and let it run awhile. Then drain the crankcase again and change the oil and install a new filter. Then at least once a month or so/ or more start the engine and let it run for awhile. Also check the rest of the fluids for water. Sitting unused in an unheated building with constant changing temps are causing your problem. If all the valves are adjusted correctly and the engine is running quietly then, i think you have enough lubrication to your valve train.

My Dad bought a used MF 65 around 1965. He hired a shop to overhaul it around 1968. I overhauled it in 1995. I found the rocker shaft was rotated 180 degrees from how it is supposed to be. That blocked oil flow to the valve train.

So the tractor had been used for 30 years that way. I had to recondition two or three rocker arm balls that fit in the cup on top of the valves. No new rocker arms were needed.

All this to say that engine has never had a stuck valve. Your milage may vary......

Once a year I drain the gas tank on both generators and the Ford tractor, so the gas is only one year old.

One year is pushing it for gasoline these days unless stabilizer is added upon refil. Should be good for two years with stabilizer.

It stuck when sitting, not running. Oiling is not your problem. You are making a mountain out of a mole hill.

Agreed.

By design, not much oil is pumped to the rocker arms.

In years past, many engines, e.g., Farmall Regular, F20, F30, etc., had no pressure lubrication to the rocker arms, relying instead upon oil cups and felt wicks.

Condensation under rocker arm cover, and elsewhere, especially breather(s), is chronic if engine is not operated at operating temperature routinely. George's symptoms are classic of such operation and/or operation without properly functioning thermostat.

Bingo.

The often overlooked transmission and other sumps, e.g., hydraulic sump, final drives, pedestals on row crop tractors, etc., often have decades of accumulated condensation therein and are known to freeze and crack in cold climates.

Mark,
What if I added lubrication to the other side of the valve stem. Mix in a little 2 cycle oil, 50:1 or 100:1?

Your good buddy would mix in ATF.

I guess my experience with a stuck valve proves one thing. When you put a hardworking girl in a nursing home, she dies!

My boy wants my Jubilee. He lives in an HOA community and has no place to store the Jubilee. He bought a new house about 10 years ago. As a housewarming give I bought him his dream mower. He wanted a walk behind mower, not a riding mower.

I think he said it takes him only 25 minutes to mow his small yard.


It takes me about how much time to mow my yard with with the Kubota.




I bought the Jubilee about 15 years ago with the 6 ft woods mower. She was my workhorse. She moved 2.25 acres at a rental property and my lawn, over an acre. Pushed snow during the impending ice age.

Now she is dying in a nursing home.
I need to put her back together while my boy is there to see how I freed up the stuck valve in case it happens in the future.


It's a good thing my mom's 1950 farmall still has a full time job mowing my other property.

If you don't use it, you lose it, seems to apply.

What would you spray the valve stems with to prevent them from rusting? I want to spray them with something when it is running to prevent rust. What spray will stick to the valve stem and not gum up in the future? White lube in a spray can? Dry garage door lub? I can spray the valve stem through the valve springs with the valve cover off.

It may be a molehill to you.
I want to prevent this from happening in the future.
I can fix about anything. My boy wants this tractor after I'm gone. I want a permanent fix for him.
I don't want the Jubilee sent to the scraper after I'm gone because Ford didn't install a PCV valve.
Can you understand why I'm making a mountain out of this?

When I bought the tractor about 15 years ago, the former owner left her outside. The tranny had more water than oil in her. The hydraulic sump had water. Very little water in the rear end.
I never use a pressure washer or leave my tractors outside.

You are right, I had to get in the hyd sump. It was full of rust. I had to replace the cam follower pin.

So much for Ford's better idea, 3 pt, he got from Harry.

> Mark, What if I added lubrication to the other side of the valve stem. Mix in a little 2 cycle oil, 50:1 or 100:1?

Well, MMO seems to help. Two stroke oil is kind of expensive for that purpose. Particularly if you mix it 50 to 1.

> Your good buddy would mix in ATF.

Yes, according to our former correspondent, ATF is the universal cure. Aspirin for internal combustion engines.

> What would you spray the valve stems with to prevent them from rusting? I want to spray them with something when it is running to prevent rust. What spray will stick to the valve stem and not gum up in the future? White lube in a spray can? Dry garage door lub? I can spray the valve stem through the valve springs with the valve cover off.

As I mentioned earlier, anything you spray on the upper valve stem will get wiped off by the valve stem seals. So you need to lube the valve stem from the manifold side, where there's nothing to wipe off lubricant but the valve guide. There's a produce specifically for that purpose, called '<a href=https://www.amazon.com/STA-BIL-Rust-Corrosion-Engine-Prevention/dp/B000H7CKAY?th=1>fogging oil</a>'. I suspect fogging oil creates problems of its own by gumming stuff up, but at least you'd be using it for its intended purpose.

A simple trick you can use on single cylinder motors to prevent the valves from sticking open is to pull the starter cord until you feel the engine is on its compression stroke. That ensures both valves are closed and, if they stick, will stick in the closed position.

Yes, it needs more work time.
You don't understand. I want a solution that doesn't involve using it often.
I want a solution to keep her in a retirement home. GET IT?
The Jubilee was put in a retirement home after I bought a new Kubota at the end of 2019.

It would be helpful if everyone told me how I can preserve the engine without running the snot out of it!

Everyone is wasting their time telling me to use it. Please tell me how to preserve it.