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Salt damaged concrete

5

550Doug

Member
Location
Southern Ontario
The outlet of my septic tank has the concrete deteriorating from the salt from my water softener, according to my septic tank cleaner. I can remove the concrete that is soft and I could patch over with new concrete, but I'd like to find a salt resistant solution. This damage does not go below the water line. Is there some type of product that will adhere to the old hard concrete but is more of a plastic or polymer that will resist salt?
 
I can't help on the concrete. Our hog barn floors all have salt damage from the salt mixed in hog feed.

In small households a softener that regenerates on demand (meters the volume of water used) can regenerate less often and use significantly less salt than a softener that regenerates on a weekly timer. Also check the setting for how much salt is used each regeneration.
 
I would just move the discharge so it would not runon the cement if that is the problem. Salt will damage cement if left long enough in it. Look at all those pillars in big cities holding the elevated up most are old material with lots of crumbing going on from all kinds of deterioration.
 
Do some Google searching about deteriorating concrete around the outlet on a septic tank wall. It has absolutely nothing to do with salt, and everything to do with an acid that forms in the tank.
 
(quoted from post at 17:32:23 09/22/23) I would just move the discharge so it would not runon the cement if that is the problem. Salt will damage cement if left long enough in it. Look at all those pillars in big cities holding the elevated up most are old material with lots of crumbing going on from all kinds of deterioration.
Click to expand...


He is talking about the wall of the septic tank. Not a slab of CONCRETE on the surface of the ground.
 
(quoted from post at 19:37:42 09/22/23) Do some Google searching about deteriorating concrete around the outlet on a septic tank wall. It has absolutely nothing to do with salt, and everything to do with an acid that forms in the tank.
Click to expand...

Wow, if this is an acid issue, then it might be sulphuric acid which is very strong. I do notice that a galvanized baffle seems to be untouched by this issue.
 
Type V cement is used for salt water applications. Brief search mentions products for salt applications. They probably use type V with some additives.
 
(quoted from post at 19:58:56 09/22/23)
(quoted from post at 19:37:42 09/22/23) Do some Google searching about deteriorating concrete around the outlet on a septic tank wall. It has absolutely nothing to do with salt, and everything to do with an acid that forms in the tank.
Click to expand...

Wow, if this is an acid issue, then it might be sulphuric acid which is very strong. I do notice that a galvanized baffle seems to be untouched by this issue.
Click to expand...

Hydrogen sulfide gas, and sulfuric acid.
 
(quoted from post at 06:59:51 09/23/23)

Put up a new post asking for help with diverting the softener effluent from your septic system.
Click to expand...

Water softener regen discharge should be routed to a drywell, not to a septic system.
 
(quoted from post at 07:05:18 09/23/23)
(quoted from post at 06:59:51 09/23/23)

Put up a new post asking for help with diverting the softener effluent from your septic system.
Click to expand...

Water softener regen discharge should be routed to a drywell, not to a septic system.
Click to expand...

OK, I think I can find another way to route the water softener discharge. So I still need to make the repair on the concrete.
 
Do you have a demand-type water softener? The amount of salt discharged by a properly-adjusted demand softener should be fairly insignificant compared to the total waste going through your septic system. A demand softener will pay for itself in reduced salt cost.

Yes, you can reroute your softener's drain to a dry well. But you're still dumping salt someplace it doesn't need to go.
 
I can remove the concrete that is soft and I
could patch over with new concrete?

My house was built in 1942. The septic tank was home
made using brick and mortar. You could remove the
bad concrete and repair the hole with brick and
mortar. Probably last your lifetime.


Is there some type of product that will adhere to
the old hard concrete?

I don't know if this product is salt proof.
I can tell you it will adhere to concrete and it
is waterproof.

I had to drill holes in my basement wall to run
conduit and water lines out. I used 90 minute
durabond to fill in around the conduit and water
line.

Not sure how thick you can apply this over old
concrete. About 1/8 inch at a time. Unlike other
drywall mud, this stuff doesn't shrink after it
drys.

It might be worth a try.

cvphoto163708.jpg


I use 90 minute durabond for my first coats of
mud when I drywall. Set the tape with durabond
too.

cvphoto163711.jpg


cvphoto163712.jpg


I sanded the durabond before top coating it with white drywall mud.

I'll guarantee you I won't have drywall cracks or tape failures.
 
My house was built in 1973 w/septic. I installed the first softener when I purchased in 1984. It has been discharging into the septic ever since. Never had an issue with my tank or field. What exactly is the down side?
 
(quoted from post at 08:17:47 09/23/23) I can remove the concrete that is soft and I
could patch over with new concrete?

My house was built in 1942. The septic tank was home
made using brick and mortar. You could remove the
bad concrete and repair the hole with brick and
mortar. Probably last your lifetime.


Is there some type of product that will adhere to
the old hard concrete?

I don't know if this product is salt proof.
I can tell you it will adhere to concrete and it
is waterproof.

I had to drill holes in my basement wall to run
conduit and water lines out. I used 90 minute
durabond to fill in around the conduit and water
line.

Not sure how thick you can apply this over old
concrete. About 1/8 inch at a time. Unlike other
drywall mud, this stuff doesn't shrink after it
drys.

It might be worth a try.

<img src=https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cvphotos/cvphoto163708.jpg>

I use 90 minute durabond for my first coats of
mud when I drywall. Set the tape with durabond
too.

<img src=https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cvphotos/cvphoto163711.jpg>

<img src=https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cvphotos/cvphoto163712.jpg>

I sanded the durabond before top coating it with white drywall mud.

I'll guarantee you I won't have drywall cracks or tape failures.
Click to expand...


Surely you can't be serious!!!! Do you really think setting type drywall compound is going to work for a repair to a concrete septic tank????? Or are you replying just for the sake of posting something?? Gotta get that post count up I guess..............:roll: :roll:
 
> I don't know if this product is salt proof. I can tell you it will adhere to concrete and it is waterproof.

George, Durabond is basically plaster of paris. It's tough but it's not waterproof. From the specs:

[i:654c4848f0]3. Not to be applied over moist surfaces or surfaces likely to become moist, or on below-grade surfaces or surfaces projecting outside building structure unless protected from direct exposure to moisture.[/i:654c4848f0]

I would use a high-strength mortar.
Rapid Set Mortar
 
(quoted from post at 10:24:59 09/23/23) My house was built in 1973 w/septic. I installed the first softener when I purchased in 1984. It has been discharging into the septic ever since. Never had an issue with my tank or field. What exactly is the down side?
Click to expand...

The excess salt can harm the necessary bacteria in the septic system (as can excessive bleach and other chemicals).
 
You could rerout the backwash water to a storm drain as a septic tank does nothing to the salt water but pass it through.
 
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