Aftermarket driveline

So my neighbor damaged the pto driveline for his 8545 Case-IH baler. Has anyone found an aftermarket one? I guess they used three different makes but OEM ones are hard to get and run over $3000.
 
If it were just a standard PTO shaft all you'd need to do is get one the right length, with the right yoke to fit the shaft on the baler end, rated for enough HP to not instantly grenade with the first slug of hay.

Unfortunately this baler has a CV joint on the end that attaches to the tractor and an overrunning clutch on the end that attaches to the baler.

What part did your neighbor damage? Maybe he only needs to replace some of the parts?
 
Try a shop that makes up truck drive lines, or maybe a speed shop. I have had a truck drveline shop repair one for me. Mark.
 
The long story--- He turned to short with his three point arms in the way. So I baled the rest of his grass that was down. I took the baler end that was the female end to a weld shop. The weld shop said they would have it in a couple days! Three weeks later not done. so I pressed them. Then they said it was done and we tried to put it together. The male end would not go in because the tube they used was to small on the inside. They just machined it out to fit on each end. So I took it back to them to make it right. They said they could not find the right size tubing. So I went looking and found some in ten minutes on the other side of town. So while all this went on I had to bale his straw. Then the weld shop got the thing done in time for third cutting of hay. He baled some and the weld broke were they put the sleeve on the tube. So I just cleaned up the weld and lined it up the best I could and rewelded it. He is done now for this season. Just thought I would find him a complete one.
 
cut the shaft or tube off the front of the over running clutch and same for the tractor end only the back side there then weld some new tube on to both with them as straight as you can get it doing due diligence on that part. OR have a shop weld the pieces together. Though you already had their ability and your could not be much worse. IF you can get the shaft and tube to insert into the yokes a bit they would be pretty straight that way so that would simplify it a lot. Just make sure the yokes are phased right by aligning the koes at the same clock position at each end of the telescoping sections.
 
Need to find a better shop that knows what they're doing. Pretty obvious but it needs to be said.

As long as the CV joint and the overrunning clutch are okay, if you REALLY want to replace instead of repairing, all you need are the shaft, tube, and yokes. Simply separate the CV and clutch at the U-joint and replace once you know what brand and style the shaft is. It's simply not going to be economical to replace the entire shaft unless you can find a used one off of another baler.

This post was edited by BarnyardEngineering on 09/19/2023 at 06:13 am.
 

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