What is the best trans oil for the SMTA? Hytran,or 90 wt?I've heard that HYTran is now accepted for the entire drive train. Is the center TA section a sealed unit,or is there fluid transfer between the rear end and trans?Currently there are no hydralics,but plan on later adding. Maybe even a 3 point.If the center is sealed,can I use that as a hydralic reservoir?If so,I can drill and tap a suction port part way up the side,and dump the return on top.This tractor may be a work in progress for a long time,but,it WILL get used.
- Thread starter DeltaRed
- Start date
rustred
Well-known Member
Everything shares the same oil, its one big bath tub. If I was doing that project I would use a thin gear oil. As thats what they used at the start when the t a came out. That hytran has gotten out of reason. My 400 still has gear oil in it. Tractor has low hrs also. And in the summer it dont much matter. Post a picture.
Janicholson
Well-known Member
I would use tractor store oil that meets the spec of old Hytran. The sprag clutch dogs have wear on them already, The friction and viscosity of the close to right oil is more likely to make things stay healthy in there. Jim
I would use any off the shelf universal trans hydraulic fluid that meets a couple of the old hytran specs like MS1207. Something like Travellers Premium Universal is so much better than anything that was put in them back in the 50s, 60s and 70s. When the SMTA came out IH was still putting 90W in them and didn't change the spec until later in the 300/400 run (or was it when the 350/450 came out). When they changed from 90W the early oil was pretty much a light straight weight (20W?) with a can or two of additive (those cans (even empty) are quite collectable I have found).
Ellis Kinney
Well-known Member
I use an SMTA for all and various farm work. I am running 90/wt. in this tractor. I have been called an idiot on this forum for running 90/wt. I very seldom use the TA. When I do use it, it is always on the hottest of days after the tractor is warmed up. I have no way of knowing if the TA has ever been worked on, but I doubt it. If you are working a lot in cold weather I would use some form of hydraulic oil. The hydraulic unit is a separate reservoir. I use CAT hydraulic oil for all my hydraulic needs, mainly because I know it is good, and there is a CAT service centre nearby. I have a dozer and three Farmall M tractors. Hope this helps Steve. Ellis
BarnyardEngineering
Well-known Member
- Location
- Rochester, NY
Manual says SAE90 gear oil, BUT that was the first production TA tractor.
IH soon found out that the gear oil was too thick and was interfering with the operation of the TA. So they switched to SAE10 with an additive. This eventually became what we know as Hytran.
The SAE90 or any heavy gear oil will cause problems with your TA not working properly. I assume the rollers will float in the heavy oil instead of engaging, so it will seem like the low side of the TA is out. So use a Hytran-like product. It doesn't have to be actual Hytran because it is a simple gear-drive transmission, no CVT, IVT, powershift, or wet clutches that need special additives.
IH soon found out that the gear oil was too thick and was interfering with the operation of the TA. So they switched to SAE10 with an additive. This eventually became what we know as Hytran.
The SAE90 or any heavy gear oil will cause problems with your TA not working properly. I assume the rollers will float in the heavy oil instead of engaging, so it will seem like the low side of the TA is out. So use a Hytran-like product. It doesn't have to be actual Hytran because it is a simple gear-drive transmission, no CVT, IVT, powershift, or wet clutches that need special additives.
the tractor vet
Well-known Member
Hy Tran. When they first came out and on up into like the 400'sthey tried 90 weight with and additive . BUT when temps dropped 90 weight was to thick and they T/A would slip So they came up with and all in one for everything . And out with the old and in with the new . Now with the Stuff I H/ Case? New Holland ? what ever it is today us LITTLE PEOPLE can't afford what they pedal . Last i bought came from Rual King for a lot less but still not cheap.
I had a 350 that was 4 gallon of water and 5 gallons of 90W when I bought it. I immediately put 80/90 back in it because that was what the old 300 manual that I had said to use. I ran it that way for 10 years before changing the oil again to a house brand equivalent to Hytran. Never bother it to have gear oil in it because like you I never used the TA summer or winter except to help out getting started in road gear once or twice a year. Now you can buy the cheaper hydtran (old) equivalents for a lot less than 80/90W gear oil.
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