farmall m acts like it is running out of gas.

after reaching normal temperature.I can disc about 3- 200 yard passes and it starts sputtering. like it is running out of gas.not sure if it is fuel,air or ignition problem.I cleaned the carb replaced needle valve and float.replaceted cap and rotor points look good.cleaned air filter added new oil to it.any help would be appreciated thanks

Sounds like the coil getting too hot which will cause no spark. You could check the fuel by pulling the plug in the carb and see if gas runs a good stream for a couple of minutes. I would then run the tractor
until it stops again and immediately check to see if you have spark. You've replaced a lot of parts and you need to get it narrowed down with some trouble shooting before spending more money. Also do you have
6 or 12 volts. If you have 12 volts with a resistor that could be going bad also but my experience with resistors they seem to either work or they don't.

The question is after you stop a bit and take the load
off will it then recover on its own and pull good again
for a bit? If so that is a a fuel delivery problem. Do you
know about the fine strainer screen in the fitting on the
carb where the fuel line attaches? See link. Checking
the flow out of the drain on the carb you should run
over a pint measure in 2 and 1/2 minutes and you
cannot count the first 8 to 10 seconds that drains
down the fuel in the carb bowl. That is 3 gallon an
hour. Test says the M used 3.75 GPH under full load, it
will probably use a bit more since it has probably been
overhauled at some point with over bore pistons. It you
pull the line off the carb and open the shut off valve. It
should flow out of that line similar to a good 2 - 3 beer
experience in bathroom. Check down through the fill
neck in the bottom of your gas tank with a good
flashlight for crud that can block the top of the
sediment bowl.
Example strainer fitting from YT.

ok thanks,when I lift the disc and throttle back it will idle better than when under load.usually when I try to resume with the disc it starts sputtering right away

also when I cleaned the carb I took that fuel line fitting out there was no strainer on it

How's the vent on your fuel cap?

The same thing happened to me on an H once. The vent was plugged in the fuel cap causing a vacuum in the tank after a while that would hinder the fuel going to
the carb.

(quoted from post at 15:05:10 08/10/23) How's the vent on your fuel cap?

The same thing happened to me on an H once. The vent was plugged in the fuel cap causing a vacuum in the tank after a while that would hinder the fuel going to
the carb.

Click to expand...

I will check that when I get home tomorrow thanks

Goose may have something there. I rarely think of that problem because all the IHs we had always had the standard IH vented cap. I only remember one time I saw anything come close to plugging one of them was when we disked some tall clover and the pollen or something was real fuzzy. The tank was topped off a little to full so some dampness collected around the vent hole and the fuzzy stuff collected around the vent hole. It never caused any trouble with how it ran. I never think about these tractors being bought and sold and who knows what kind of gas cap someone may have put on there along the way. If the gas cap is not the culprit then there is a possibility that the condenser could cause your problem as well. A lot of people like to say the coil is bad, not saying it could not be. But a coil failure is not real common. Not nearly as common as a coil replacement that changes nothing about the problem with how the tractor is acting.

I did have to put a screen on the tank outlet or sediment bowl
inlet I guess you could call it of the super c. Made a world of
difference I quit getting the floaters that would stop me every
half hour from the tank

Yep. That's what happened on the 706 and the 49 GMC one ton

Have MF65 that had been setting that was bought by someone else and brought to me to get going. Had many things that some attention, got running and would run for few minutes then spit and sputter then die.
Let set and go again. Changed condenser, Put one in that may be 40 years old and has ran for about hour, will run some more tommorow.

well not a mention of the most important thing,... do u have full fuel flow into the carb??? its part of the carb job. to start at the tank
and check everything including removeing the sediment bowl is its necessary. many time there is rust in the tank that gets in the stand pipe
and plugs the fuel flow. i have lots of experince with this problem nobody bothers checking.

My Farmall C has a 90 degree brass elbow where
the gas line attaches to the carb. That elbow has
a screen on it. When my farmall acts like it is
running out of gas, it's time to clean the
screen.

coil or condenser if it has gas to run that long its not a fuel problem
because gas doesent make an engine sputter it will run slower when short
of gas

you know it could be valves set too tight too?. ive seen engines run great but
under short load cough down n almost die but idle fine. dont rule out improper
valve settings

(quoted from post at 01:20:14 08/11/23) coil or condenser if it has gas to run that long its not a fuel problem
because gas doesent make an engine sputter it will run slower when short
of gas

Click to expand...

thanks I will be checking these suggestions today when I get home.I work 24 hr shits.

My first guess would be, as others have
said, debree in the inlet pipe to the
sediment bowl (coming out of tank, and
likely above the shut off valve).

Sometimes, blockage there will be just
restricted enough to not allow continuous
run, but seem to have descent flow.
Reasoning why you can run 20 minutes, and
then die.

If tractor re-starts after 5 to 10 minutes,
this is also an indicator of said problem.

Sometimes its hard to do a spark test or
fuel flow test immediately after an engine
die. This might happen at any given time
and place, and you likely won't be able to
do it in a quick nature. But if you can
temporarily prevent the engine die (when it
acts up) with the pulling of the choke rod,
this strongly points to a fuel issue rather
than a spark issue. Saves a little grief of
trying to do other testing.

If your charging system don't work, and
your using a battery charger to routinely
charge the battery before tractor use, you
can run into spark trouble if your battery
charge gets low. Especially if your running
a 12v battery, and a 6v coil with the in-
line 12 to 6 reducer. If you got that, you
could run into troubles if battery gets
below a certain percent charge. Problem
cured by re-charging battery to full
charge. You can't run (after initial start
up) until battery almost completely dead
like you can with 6v everything (which I
doubt you have). If 6v everything, then you
can run as long as you can get any kind of
glimmer out of the lights. But if you are
thinking spark problem, check into this
before you go replacing a bunch of un-
needed things.