Hello all. I was offered a butler grain bin for free, if I bust up the concrete pad it is on. I would really like to move the bin whole if possible. It is about 14' diameter and maybe 10' tall. I have a car trailer and bobcat. I was thinking, since it is on a pad now, I could jack up the sides little at a time, block it up, put a wooden frame under and set it on the trailer. I dont have bin jacks, just some farm jacks and the bobcat. We are not going to use it as a storage bin at home, but make some sort of gazebo with wooden posts. So I would really like to keep it whole in order to work with it better. Any advise? Thanks.
- Thread starter jorswift
- Start date
BarnyardEngineering
Well-known Member
- Location
- Rochester, NY
Most of the ones I've seen moved, get lifted from above through the fill hole using a tire.
I'm thinking you'd build your cribbing inside the bin and screw the sidewalls to it before you attempt to separate it from the pad.
I'm thinking you'd build your cribbing inside the bin and screw the sidewalls to it before you attempt to separate it from the pad.
Bob Bancroft
Well-known Member
- Location
- Aurora NY
Just as barnyard engineering says, we moved them that size with an old car tire/rim. Others I have talked to used a bigger tire.
We chained a pole to a loader bucket, dropped a chain through the fill hole to the rim, and lifted away.
We chained a pole to a loader bucket, dropped a chain through the fill hole to the rim, and lifted away.
flying belgian
Well-known Member
I've moved them with the tire fill hole mentioned below. Another way is back a gravel truck up to it with box raised. Chain bin to box and let box down.
GeneMO
Well-known Member
- Location
- Pilot Grove, Mo.
You can make bin jacks. We used three 2X4's. The center one would be 2' longer that the outside one. Bolt through the top of all 3. The long one would form the leg. hang a come along from the topof the tripod. ave to make 3 or 4 of these.
Ive done that. Same bin. A loader and a bobcat lifted it, I got it back down with a loader and some blocks and more
time than sense.
Dont over think it, but be mindful of safety and wind and how slippery metal sitting on metal can be when lifting or
lowering with loader or jacks.
When on the trailer, clamp it down with straps, from the hole down to the trailer. You dont want it moving on the
trailer.
Paul
time than sense.
Dont over think it, but be mindful of safety and wind and how slippery metal sitting on metal can be when lifting or
lowering with loader or jacks.
When on the trailer, clamp it down with straps, from the hole down to the trailer. You dont want it moving on the
trailer.
Paul
flying belgian
Well-known Member
I guess we never did ask you how far the move? Can you put it on some 2x10s and skid it? Is at quarter mile down the road?
Tractorcedric
Member
- Location
- Garland. Utah
Moved mine in the winter. Raise it enough to put some 2x6 s under it and pulled it dowm the road while snow was still on.
Moved a dozen like that. No cribbing needed for that job. I lift mine up and back my car hauler under and
set it on the front and back and strap it down with 4 ratchet straps. Head down the road and unload at home.
If you bust up the concrete there should be an angle iron all the way around the bottom and that is all the
stiffener you need. If your fenders are too high on the trailer I push the bin forwards till it hits the
front and have a railway tie slip under each side against the fender so it sits on the tie instead of my
fender.
I lift on one side high enough to back under and then let it down. to be safe and not throw it over I tie
one strap up to the top and down to my loader so that if I lift too high it holds it down. Does not take
long to move a bin. takes longer to take out the concrete unless it is old and cracked already.
set it on the front and back and strap it down with 4 ratchet straps. Head down the road and unload at home.
If you bust up the concrete there should be an angle iron all the way around the bottom and that is all the
stiffener you need. If your fenders are too high on the trailer I push the bin forwards till it hits the
front and have a railway tie slip under each side against the fender so it sits on the tie instead of my
fender.
I lift on one side high enough to back under and then let it down. to be safe and not throw it over I tie
one strap up to the top and down to my loader so that if I lift too high it holds it down. Does not take
long to move a bin. takes longer to take out the concrete unless it is old and cracked already.
I moved an old corn crib on a car hauler. I tipped it up with
the loader and backed under it. Some straps or chains
and you are ready to go . If you cant find a place to hook
a chain just take a sharp punch,some bolts and nuts and
some predrilled angle iron and bolt them on.
the loader and backed under it. Some straps or chains
and you are ready to go . If you cant find a place to hook
a chain just take a sharp punch,some bolts and nuts and
some predrilled angle iron and bolt them on.
Got several that I made shooting houses out of 25
years ago, sadly I lost my hunting lease this year and
didnt want to leave them for the high rollers that got
my lease, picked them up with front end loader and put
on a gooseneck trailer and brought them home
Last picture is a 26 ft travel trailer frame I bought to put the other another grain bin on since I have one in my gooseneck trailer at the moment.
years ago, sadly I lost my hunting lease this year and
didnt want to leave them for the high rollers that got
my lease, picked them up with front end loader and put
on a gooseneck trailer and brought them home
Last picture is a 26 ft travel trailer frame I bought to put the other another grain bin on since I have one in my gooseneck trailer at the moment.
Crazy Horse
Well-known Member
One of the guys in our tractor club has a hydraulic bin mover. Not sure if you can find any to rent or not.
farmerjohn
Well-known Member
Many years ago, we moved one about 6 miles, we hired a log truck with a cherry picker to move it.
Chris in SK
Member
I don't know....having to break up the pad seems like a lot of work to me unless its crumbling. Do you know if it has rebar
or mesh in it? Hopefully you don't have to haul it away as well! Flat bottom bins are pretty much worthless around here and
most are on rotten wood bases so fairly easy to clean up.
or mesh in it? Hopefully you don't have to haul it away as well! Flat bottom bins are pretty much worthless around here and
most are on rotten wood bases so fairly easy to clean up.
Similar threads
We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.
Copyright © 1997-2024 Yesterday's Tractor Co.
All Rights Reserved. Reproduction of any part of this website, including design and content, without written permission is strictly prohibited. Trade Marks and Trade Names contained and used in this Website are those of others, and are used in this Website in a descriptive sense to refer to the products of others. Use of this Web site constitutes acceptance of our User Agreement and Privacy Policy TRADEMARK DISCLAIMER: Tradenames and Trademarks referred to within Yesterday's Tractor Co. products and within the Yesterday's Tractor Co. websites are the property of their respective trademark holders. None of these trademark holders are affiliated with Yesterday's Tractor Co., our products, or our website nor are we sponsored by them. John Deere and its logos are the registered trademarks of the John Deere Corporation. Agco, Agco Allis, White, Massey Ferguson and their logos are the registered trademarks of AGCO Corporation. Case, Case-IH, Farmall, International Harvester, New Holland and their logos are registered trademarks of CNH Global N.V.
Yesterday's Tractors - Antique Tractor Headquarters
Website Accessibility Policy