1969 Ford 4000 clutch petal seal?

I have a leak coming from clutch petal where it goes into the bell housing. Is there an easy fix. It is a small drip. But it will end up puddling up over time in my barn. I also have pictures if I can figure out how to post them.
 

cvphoto157757.jpg


cvphoto157758.jpg
 
Maybe it's coming down from up above. Put a O ring between the housing, and the shaft.You might have to recess the pedal to give the O ring some space with a tapered reamer. If you can find one. Stan
 
You will need to disconnect the linkages and remove the brake petals from the right side of the tractor. Take care of the snap ring and half moon keys that you remove. Clutch linkage will need to come off where it connects to the petal. The complete shaft will then slide out of the left hand side of the tractor. The seals for each side can now be replaced. Inspect the shaft for wear where the seals ride on the shaft. Most all will be worn on a tractor of that age. If so then, take the shaft to a machine shop and they can weld it and turn it back down to specs in a lathe. There are also bushing's in the housing where the shaft slides through. One bushing per side. If much wear at all is found then, replace those along with the seals. Do both sides while apart. This is the only way to repair a leak on that shaft. You will need to drain all the oil out before removing the shaft. Not a very hard job if you have all the tools needed. A good set of bushing drivers are a big help.
 
I doubt trying to squeeze an oring in there is going to stop a drip. If it was running out you might be able to slow it to a drip with that kind of a cobble fix. The seals are number 30 in the attached link, 30A are dust seals. Did not get a price for them or see if they would cross to other manufacturers seals. Maybe someone like UD the birthday boy can tell you if you need to pull the shaft completely out to change them. Maybe the drill, insert metal screw and pop out with crow bar method will work.
CNHI Ford 4000 brake control parts
 
First thing this morning I drained the oil out of the rear sump on a 3000. I plan to go after those seals by the end of the week. This will be the 3rd are 4th set I have replaced, on all, all they needed were the seals.

As I do this type of work I make seal drivers as part of the fun. About the only thing I can say that will help is put the left side seal in, slide the shaft all the way thru then install the right seal at the brake pedals. This keeps from damaging the seal on that side when you install the shaft. Deburr the shaft well as not to cut a new seal.

Lucky me I have the rear axles out but I don't think the wheels will interfere with the job.
 
Be sure to check the side to side movement of that shaft to bushing clearance. If any loose motion is detected replace those bushings. If not replaced the new seals will soon be leaking again.
 
I feed the skeeters and battled the heat I got mine replaced last night. All though there was no ware on the shaft where the cross over shaft runs in the bushings I installed new bushings. The clutch pedal end did have some ware on the shaft where the clutch pedal pivots. . That shaft only moves when the left brake is applied.

I installed the left seal pushed the shaft thru till it stuck out on the right side an inch, I put one rap of clear packing tape over the grove where the lock clip is machined into it and installed the seal. Make sure you drive the seals in all the way.

The long 18.5" bar is used to drive out the old bushing. I machined it sharp and square to grab the edge of the bushing clean. I marked it at 8" to tell me when it was sitting on the bushing edge.

When I find some bar stock 1-1/2" OD I plan to make the driver/installer tools over. The pocket the seal sets is is 1-1/2" it would be nice the 1=1/2" OD to use it as a stop.

To go back to driving the seal all the way in, if you don't the dust seal will interfere you will not get the C-clip installed on the end of the shaft and have to go back and make up for it. BYDT : (






mvphoto107377.jpg
 
Update.
Ive gotten it fixed with out taking anything apart. I just loosened up bolt on the right pedal on the cross shaft and hit the shaft to the right pushing it in some and tighten the bolt back up. Left in the shop over night. No leak! Now it might be temp but I do plan on getting in there and changing the seals out and shaft eventually. Thank yall for the help fellas
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top