Farmall c coolant from head

Hey all, parked my c for the winter. Put a new distributor on it in the spring and took it for a test drive down the road, when I got back I noticed it had started smoking bad so I shut it off. When I got off the tractor I noticed a wet spot a few inches from the bottom of the radiator (it looked like) and I also noticed that the head gasket had little bubbles of coolant on it. I also noticed that one or two of the holes in the head were also weeping. What are these holes on the head? None of these problems last year when parked. Used all year for cultivating. Was low on coolant before winter so i put a gallon or so in it when it was parked. Still was not full though if I remember right which I was kind of surprised. Never saw weeping or smoking or over heating while I used it last year.
cvphoto156391.png
 
My educated guess is those are holes in the head that should not be there. What were they weeping? Should not be coolant there. Those areas inside the head are where the push rods for the valves come through, so it should be oil. I am going to say those are the ends of core wires from when the head was cast and they did not get placed in the correct location. Now they are leaking because the casting has a hole there. Should really be the end of a wire or rod in there. I would have to see the head with my own eyes to say for sure. Maybe some good pictures of the inside with the valve cover off may confirm or debunk my idea. I am in a bit of a hurry right now and I cannot find a good web result to link that would explain it. I did find one link that sort of gives an example of what I am talking about. In the link scroll down, until you see the bold words ..Core Material.. right above that in diagram ..h.. it shows a hanging core. In your case the core rod ends shifter and poked through the outside of the core. We will see if others agree with my theory. I believe they could be sealed with epoxy. (JB Weld) Remember I am calling this an educated guess. Other wise for the bubbling gasket trying to retorque would be my first steps.
Casting process info
 
I tend to agree with used red except for the side of the head one has the push rods and the othr would not and without looking I would not be able to say which right now. As for the head gasket leak I'm with him there too.Cheap and easy possible fix. IF it still bothers then probably time for a head gasket. Need to have the coolant to the top of the core tubes at least, but not to the top of the tank. This would be for a cold engine. Don't just get a head gasket based on price if it comes to that look for the thicker sandwich gasket if they can be had anymore.
 
Catguy, just think about it a bit. His picture shows the spark plugs. So in most any gas powered inline engine unless it is a cross-flow design what do you always find on the opposite side of the head from the spark plugs? Yep, the manifolds. That means the ports and valves are almost always opposite of the spark plugs. And due to rocker arm the push rods are always opposite of the valves. You can look at the linked parts diagram if you want. Ever work on a Chrysler slant 6 with the tubes the spark plugs go in? The push rods set right next to those tubes.
Farmall C cylinder head diagram
 
How cold was it over winter at your location?

Is it possible the antifreeze in the system wasn't quite strong enough?

Either that, or is the coolant old and possibly corrosive?

Can you post a photo of the ''holes'' in the head that are leaking?

As to the gasket leak, as another reply said, you could try retorguing the head nuts. Be aware that the valve clearances will need to be checked after that.
 
Does the heat guage work? And if so, what did it show when you was out on your test drive and upon your return??? Did it show that it was over heating? Or if a non-functioning guage, did it show signs of over heating (steaming or boiling over at the radiator cap???

Because if you replaced the distributor, and you didn't get the timing set right, this could possibly cause overheating.

This wouldn't exactly explain any of the leaking (other than out the radiator cap/overflow). However, if the coolant system built up more pressure than it had been doing before, it might aid in or develope leaks in places it hasn't leaked before. As in, maybe the system only built up 10 lbs of pressure before, but when you overheated it, it built up to 15 lbs or whatever the cap is rated for.

If the over flow tube is broke off at the radiator neck, then the over flow will just blow out where the tube us broke off (at the top of the radiator). Then it just travels downward and gets all over and blown around by the fan. Water appears in places where it didn't even leak from. I think you get the idea.

This might not be your problem, or might not explain all of what you got going on. But with what you got going on, it is definately something to think about. Because it just might be responsible for some of what you got going on.
 

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