Kohler engine question

The 10hp Kohler in my lawn tractor seized up so I need to do something with it. There are a couple 16hp Kohlers for sale nearby and I'm wondering how much difference there is as far as fit?. Will parts from my 10 horse such as starter and drive components fit? The pto clutch is on the flywheel and the drive pump is on the output shaft, are they similar?

What tractor Jon!

Jon: Repair (service) and Owners Manuals are down loadable at Kohlers web site. be aware a lot of generator engines will have a tapered output shaft. Some are battery ignition, some flywheel magneto. Another thing to watch for is starter generator or small starter mounted on engine engaging flywheel ring gear.

Flywheel on a 16 would normally be larger diameter. You would also need to measure the diameter and length of the shaft opposite the flywheel end. Depending on original application, this end can be several sizes. Oil pan can be different, depending on the original application, some are wide pans, others might be narrow pans. The 10hp pan is shallower on most applications so if you put it on a 12 - 16, the dipper on the connecting rod will hit bottom.

If the shaft end matches what you have, I have taken the flywheel and shroud from the 10 and installed on the 16. I have 2 16's in Cub Cadets right now that was done that way many years ago. I used one with a tiller on it yesterday.

Here is a thread on Wheel Horse forum discussing pan differences in more detail.
https://www.wheelhorseforum.com/topic/44945-identifying-big-block-kohler-block-styles/

A-1 Miller's Performance web site has a lot of information and even has a download link for service manuals for these engines.

http://gardentractorpullingtips.com/engine.htm

My 220 case.

The differences I see are the starter, mine has the starter/generator and the other has a regular starter. Can those be interchanged? If not how hard is the wiring change?. Then the height and over all size, how close are they? And o course the oil pan, will they interchange?

The 10 horse oil pan will probably NOT interchange with the 16 horse oilpan. But it all depends on the current set up. On a cub the oil pan on the 10 horse is basically flat, while the 12hp and larger have dip in the pan for the rod to dip into and splash lube the engine. I have seen K301s with K321 oilpans - mine had one after the rebuild because the K321 oilpans were available and the K301 oilpans were hard to find. Mine needed a new one with the rebuild because the oil plug hole had been ruined.

Look up K241, K301, K321, K341 oil pans on Ebay and you'll see the difference

I think your starter/gen could be mounted on the 16, but doubt that it would function well. The crank on the Case is really short, but the 16 can be cut to fit. The pump coupler half can be had in almost any size to adapt the drive coupling. The 16 will have a flywheel alternator to charge the battery and I think a new ignition switch and regulator. Wiring changeover is easy. All the electrical info is in an owners manual. That and a lot of other info can be found at https://www.casecoltingersoll.com/. You'll probably need to join/sign up but highly worthwhile if you have a Case GT.

Your front PTO will bolt to the 16hp flywheel.

There are at least 3 different block shapes/sizes where the pan bolts on. Wide block openings can be adapted with a plate to block off the opening but it's not easy. JD, Case, Cub Cadet and others used the K engines. Somewhere I have saved a link with pics etc. Maybe I can find it later.

Ive excellent results rebuilding k241 AQS for cub cadets . The old cast irons Kohler are robust. Personally I wouldnt even consider a swap ,probably get something worse that what you have . Plus cost of all the modifications . To retro fit it . Add up fast .
Your choice.

X 2

(quoted from post at 06:47:39 05/30/23) My 220 case.


<img src=https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cvphotos/cvphoto155592.jpg>

Click to expand...

Do whatever you can!

X3

Rebuild kits are cheap. A new piston, rod, valves and gasket kit can be had on Ebay for $120.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/384156797454?hash=item5971878a0e:gfQAAOSw2oheSyYP&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA0O%2B77PK3kIxSnrXwO7g4dsPZG1dlsehFkQn9N6HM%2B78zAB%2F%2Bv9h2CQY%2BU3lg0k4aZGEIzxYiz7iFwTXVu1Phz604%2BRviDjlmF%2FuWBQFHl%2F1ElPUtFqcDAy6GMxH5op7l2ViaSKqMCt19YWsR8MAgRpnGyQzlE5Wrfoxe6NNdhrORuizi0wCDL7hZ8N7O8YRsCMzkxa6kz0s0DKFXTTh0u1Y0jHtAYlTJQ04oLcpoN0ol7ldYGQfdq9qWR3NyybAUk4LxiZIb%2F236gWnPH3j%2FAMk%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR7Cy_eyNYg


You can get oversized pistons or undersized rod bearings if you have to bore the cylinder or turn the crank. I put a similar kit on my K321 (cub Cadet 1450) back when they were $89 years ago. It has about 400 hours on the rebuild. Machine shop work SHOULD be fairly cheap given how simple a Kohler engine is. The last one I did a bored cylinder (.020 over) and a polished crank was less than $60. I would assume more than double today. Total for a bullet proof Kohler rebuild I had about $250 in the whole project - and that was paying someone to put it together as a long block. I would probably do it myself today.

When a friend passed away I ''inherited'' A CASE ''150'' in pieces with a professionally rebuilt 10HP Kohler that has never been installed. $250 for the whole kit and caboodle. IIRC, front tires are missing but rims are there, probably some other parts, as well, but engine long block is complete and assembled. Located a couple hours NW of Grand Forks

How complete is the mower? Can you send me any pictures? I did make a deal on a new engine already, but I may be interested in yours too. I want one of those older models but couldn't find one so I got this one. My email is open or you can text them to 320 492 9077

Photos sent!