How to remove Hubs?

jd2cyl1943

Member
Location
Bemidji, MN
I'm trying to get the Hubs off my JD B. I stole somebody's idea that I saw on the JD discussion forum but I ether maxed out the 4-Ton jack or broke it. Any Ideas?
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First be very careful using that method. If the chain slips off the jack, things will go flying in random directions. Usually at a fast rate of speed. That said move the jacking piston to the low side of the
jack so the oil can get to the piston. The jacks are designed for vertical applications not horizontal so much.
 
bottles jacks will pump air on their sides and quit working. The idea is right but the application is wrong. First off you need to find a way to pull evenly on the hub, right now it looks like you are pulling off center. Next find a mechanical way of pulling, ie threaded puller ,screwjack, cable come-a-long, just something other than a hydraulic bottle jack. If you can apply heat that would help greatly. It will also help to find the biggest hammer you can to hit the hub both before and during use of the puller,to eliminate any chances of binding.
 
I blew the seals out of a 20ton HF jack not before broke 5/16 grade 70 chain once and distorted both grab hooks. I put ram end on axle and chain over base of jack. Keep pump of jack on bottom or as close as
possible. This was on 1935 A JD.
 
not sure what u mean by broke it? other than yes its broke free. that outside hub is tapered to match the wheel hub. as you notice there is 3
slots in the wheel hub splines. when you tighten them 3 bolts in the outside hub it is squeezing the wheel hub tight to the axle. so yes the
outside hub is free but that dont mean the splines in the hub on the axle are free,... most likely rusted solid from many years of not being
touched. when being put together these splines need a good coating of never seize or copper coat . now you need a big rose bud to heat that
hub up and let it cool. plus be careful not to break them 3 taper tabs of as that happens also. plus you need an actual porta power for that,
that jack wont cut it, plus they dont work sideways.
 
A good bottle Jack will work laying on its side used
them that way lots of times some will some wont. You
need a 20 ton for that job
 
I just had to take the hubs off a 44 Massey Harris Standard Tractor.
When the hub was made it had two threaded holes, 3/4 inch thread for pulling. I made a one inch thick plate with the 2 holes for the 3/4" bolts. I also made a hole for a 1" nut welded to the plate in the center. This would push on the center of the axle. I heated the first one 2 different times to a little above 300 degrees and then letting it cool with no results, still tight with 500 lbs torque on the 1 " bolt. Finally heated to a little above 500 degrees and cooled and off it came. When I did the second one I went to 500 degrees right off the bat, let it cool and off it came. Those were big hubs on the standard, took quite a while to get it hot.
DWF
 
Get an inch plate big enough to put the bolts through and nuts on the hub behind, the ears then tighen them up evenly. Heat with a orse bud tip and let the heat do the work. Tighen the bolts as they loosen up and it will come off. You want some grade 8 bolts and nuts with a washer on it behind the ears and under the heads on the plate. Tighen as you go evenly soi the ears don't break off. That will make you say bad words and invent some.
 
When I was kid, I had a JD B that I wanted to move the wheel spacing on. I had taken the collar off and ran it like that for a while. Still did not come loose. But I was a kid and I was driving it on a county
road cloae to dusk. A guy in a big ole Chevy was coming towards me and he dropped his cigarete. I had the right wheel in the grass but he was in the middle of the road. That wheel came off that night!!
 
Your using soft chain and really soft all thread,,it's a good thing you had a weak jack..that set up will re-arange your dentures...
 
Suggest,tear that down .
Drive it straight back ( looks like the hub is not going to move down the shaft with it on that angle ) the mechanism has bound it up on the
shaft clean it. Looks like corrosion is binding the hub . Cleaning with brake clean.
Get wire brush on a drill and clean up those splines. Or a 80 grit cloth . Clean it good ,get rid of all that rust . Off that axle.
Grease or oil it
Purchase that cylinder so it pulls the the hub down the axle. As others suggested.
Use propane torch to heat up up to expand the hub on the axle will slide better.
Use leaded hammer ,brass hammer or dead blow hammer .dont use a sledgehammer it could break that hub whacking on it.
Get the rust off down into the splines ,clean it up good.
Thats what I think is stopping the removal from the photo .
 
I posted this on the JD forum recently. Very similar to ztw2009's set up. I used 5/8 threaded rod and the hub wedge clamp. The big steel bar I used against the axle was off the press. Threaded rod you can get fairly reasonable at a hardware store. If you don't have access to such a bar you could get some steel flat bar and cut it up into smaller pieces and stack them against the axle.

Stupid picture didn't show up I'll try later


This post was edited by 620 John on 05/24/2023 at 08:14 am.
 
(quoted from post at 10:13:02 05/24/23) I posted this on the JD forum recently. Very similar to ztw2009's set up. I used 5/8 threaded rod and the hub wedge clamp. The big steel bar I used against the axle was off the press. Threaded rod you can get fairly reasonable at a hardware store. If you don't have access to such a bar you could get some steel flat bar and cut it up into smaller pieces and stack them against the axle.

Stupid picture didn't show up I'll try later


This post was edited by 620 John on 05/24/2023 at 08:14 am.



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