The problems from that point are limited. Outside of a
damaged rotor or cap, the damage present may also
be in the form of cracking. The rotor may be incorrectl
for the application and not timed correctly to transfer
the spark, compare it to the old one. Moisture is one of
the more common problems check closely for this.
There is also a phenomena called ..carbon tracking..
where during use the environment in the distributor
cap collects carbon and this forms a fine trail inside
the cap that can form in a line down to the mating face
of the metal distributor base. The spark then follows
that trail to ground. Look closely, the use of a
magnifying glass would not be out of the question. The
wires themselves could also not conduct the spark
properly. Did the wires come made to the proper
length? If they were cut to fit the end of the wire needs
about a 1/2 of insulation stripped away leaving the
core conductor. Then the conductor need folded back
over the insulation then the terminal end needs
crimped over the top of the folded conductor.
I would suggest now that you confirmed spark at the
coil wire check it at the plugs again. It could be that
there is an intermittent problem in your ignition and the
spark comes and goes. The best way is to put a wire
on a plug and place the plug against some metal part
of the block and crank it looking for spark. Give a
description of how you checked for spark at the plugs.
What do the plugs look like? Do they still look like new?
Has the tractor attempted to run at all since the new
plugs were put in? If the plugs are black they are what I
call rich fouled. They will need cleaned with spray carb
cleaner, a wire brush then a blast of compressed air.
I was ready to post to add that the other poster that
gave you the testing info left out a very important
component of a coil and point type ignition system
test. You confirmed it is working by testing for spark at
the high tension coil wire. Before condemning a coil his
test should have included that when the points are
closed there should be no indication of power on the
terminal that comes out of the distributor. The points
when closed or contacting should ground or connect it
to earth as you like to say. So when working correctly
the distributor terminal should flash or blink a test light
on and off with its lead connected to earth and the test
probe on the terminal when the ignition is on and
working correctly and you are cranking the engine.
I am going to give you a very thorough test process for
a points ignition system. It was put together by a very
knowledgeable poster here on YT posting under the
handle John T. Good luck!
John T ignition troubleshooting guide
