Tire Removal

Use a reciprocating (SawsAll) to cut the tread and side walls, and a cutoff tool in a 4.5 grinder to chop the bead. Smokes, but works well. Keep the bead away from the rim to avoid cutting into the metal. Jim
 
and if you dont have that saw use a tire hammer, oops u dont have that either. i just replaced the rotten rear tires on my cockshutt with a
used set took about 2 hrs. no fluid.
 
Lay tire and rim down on the ground. Lay
the right size/length of plank board upon
the tire (but not on the rim) as if it were
a ramp. Drive another vehicle up on the
board to bust the bead loose. Work your way
around the wheel, and then flip over and do
the same to the other side.

I use a 3X12 plank however long. The longer
the better. If tire goes down but don't
bust the bead loose, I just move to a
different spot or add a short piece of 2X4
between the plank and tire to get you a
little more down action.

Not the best way of breaking a bead loose,
but works if you don't have the proper
tools.

Once the bead is broke loose, just pry the
side wall off with pry bars.

I prefer this way better than grinding and
sawing, but I have done it that way too. I
used a cutting torch one time too. But
that's something I won't do again. Rubber
just catches fire, and gets real real
messy.
 
I've always used a duck bill hammer to
break the beads. Even a short handle one
works fine. Some soapy water on the
sidewalls helps it slide and break the
bead. A couple of tire irons to dismount.
The tools really aren't that expensive at
Tractor Supply or other Farm supply store.
And once you have them, you have them for
next time.
 
I've laid them on the ground and after
breaking bead, put my knees on tire
pushing the bead down towards middle of
rim, then using a pry bar to pry bead up
and over rim on opposite side. Kinda like
knees at 6 o'clock on tire and prying with
bar at 12 o'clock and working way around.
 
Always change remove the tires from the rim when
mounted on the tractor. Plus I need a way to break the
inside bead. Some time you need to remove the rim then
mount it again. I front end loader bucket works excellent
also for breaking beads.
 
I have been using a handy man jack. I always keep the tire/rim on the tractor. Put the foot of the jack parallel to the rim on the tire bead. Run a decent size log chain around the tire and rim and hook it into a circle. Obviously the jacks lifting point is hooked under the chain. Start jacking. May have to steady or hold up the end of the jack. Probably best done with two people although I use this process myself all of the time. This is the best thing I have found to break tractor tire beads without buying the the hydraulic or screw type bead breaker. I have a screw type bead breaker which really doesn't work all that well. As you are jacking allow time for the tire to begin moving. Liquid soap or WD40 helps lubicate things. Push back in one place and then you might have to move a foot or so and do it again. Once the front side is off do the same to the back side. Most of the time I do not chain the back side. I still put the base of the jack on the tire, but push off of the drawbar with the lifting point of the jack. It is important that the foot of the jack be as close to the rim as possible. Pushing in the middle of the sidewall does nothing. Anytime you use a handy man jack take precautions, but I have never thought of this useage being all that dangerous compared to other tire bead breaking methods.
 
I cheat. I put the fork of a telehandler against the bead next to the rim and push with the boom. they usually pop right in on newer tires. IF older and rusted like yours might have to do that a couple places to get it loose. I would spray/pour some diesel fule or other rubber lubricant like murphy's tire compound dilluted in water to loosen some of the rust and let soak for a few days first. Tires that have been setting rusted on like those will take a lot of work getting loose. It might even be worth the cost to take the tires and rims in and have them break them down for you. IF you look around you will find several options for bead breaking. From slide hammers to tire machines that would push them off faster than you can set them up. I have even started out by driving chisels in under the lip of the rim then a bigger chisel till I was drivng flat bars in and so on till it broke down. Then do the other side. When you put the new ones on use the murphy's tire mounting compound. IT does not cause rust at the rims like dish soap can and usually will over time. Putting on I get the one side started then put a vise grip on the side of the rim to hold the bead from walking off as I pry it on. It also holds the tire bead from sliding around the rim as you pry it on too.
 
It all depends on what tools you have at your disposal. Personally, I have a hydraulic bead breaker, a fluid pump, the right bars and
a tire hammer and a tub of Murphy's tire soap. If You have some or none of these you will have to improvise.
 
Sawzall and a pruning blade (aggressive). Cut around the entire sidewall on both sides. Heat the rim with a heat gun in one spot to get the bead to move. Once it moves there they will literally fall off. Old rims are very fragile, dont pry on them or hit them any more than absolutely necessary.
 
Are you anywhere near a Harbor Freight? At 9:00AM tomorrow, because it's Sunday, be at the door when they open. Immediately go inside and purchase a #58918 Manual Bead Breaker (check online to make sure they have it in stock before making the trip).

Do NOT use an impact on the bead breaker. You will strip the threads and break cast parts. Ask me how I know.

Soapy water, you may as well just whiz on the tire. Soak the bead with PB Blaster, Kroil, Liquid Wrench or whatever. You're not trying to save the old tires, right? Who cares if you "ruin" them by using a petroleum based product on them??
 
If the tire and rim are off of the tractor and laying down on the ground. I just set the corner of my loader bucket down hard right next to the rim. If that does not push the bead loose, I start right there
with the tire hammer. If you don't have a tire hammer, a dull splitting wedge will work.
 
Tips? I advise to haul your wheels & tires to a good, local AG Tire Center and let them do the job. They have all the tools, machines, and manpower/experience to do
the job. Well worth the price if you ask me. That being said, here are a few pages from the FORD 8N OWNER'S Manual if that'll help ya.

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Tim Daley (MI)
 

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