Update on Farmall 706 head gasket/head problem

andy r

Member
Thank you for all of the advice a few days ago about my Farmall 706 diesel having compression loss through the radiator. I was going to go to Harbor Freight today and buy a cooling system compression tester to find the leak before I took the head off. I don't think there is any need for that now. Yesterday I drained about 1 gallon of antifreeze off of the bottom of the oil pan. Mid morning today I put it back into the radiator and a couple hours later it started to drip antifreeze out of the loose drain plug in the oil pan. So, it is most certainly getting through somewhere. I haven't yet drained the crankcase oil pan so it has to settle through that as well. I believe I can just pull the pan and find at least a rough location where the antifreeze is coming through. That might help find a possible damaged gasket or a crack. Just wanted to give and update and see if that produces any additional helpful comments.
 
I had oil in the radiator when the oil cooler went bad not coolant in the oil. The oil pressure is higher than the radiator pressure. Oil should move to the rad.
 
Yes, dropping the pan first will give you a chance to look for obvious leaks.

I think that engine has wet sleeves, which means they have oring seals at the bottom, could be an oring. Especially if the engine still ran well and was not pressurizing the cooling system.

If coolant is coming down around a piston that would also give a clue as to which cylinder to examine closely for a pin hole in the sleeve, especially if the gasket and head look good.
 
the 282 is a dry sleeve engine. by that puffing in the rad you were talking about is a head gasket problem or more.
 
and i forgot to say it might have the german diesel in it as the later ones have. so u tell us.
 
Five or six years ago the gasket blew between 2 cylinders. Sounded like a big air compressor and very little power. Cleaned everything up and installed a new head gasket with copper coat applied. Did use guide bolts to lower the head on the new gasket. Did clean all threads (internal and external) and did retorque after bringing it to operating temp. Did replace the intake valves at that time. Exhaust valves had been replaced. What I did not do was check the head for distortion or cracks. These two items will be completed this time! Probably were no cracks as the engine ran well for all of those years. Guess I am hoping that a fire ring on the head gasket burnt away and eventually left a trail to a coolant hole in the block/head.
 
I have replaced already 2 or 3 of these head gaskets that burnt out between 2 cylinders. It had nothing to do with coolant. Only that u had a 4 cyl engine. I even finished round baking with my 660 with 4 cylinders. It sure was short of power.
 
No he is working on a D 282 not the D 310 . On his i am not going to guess what all his problem could be as it maybe just the head gskt OR he may have some really big problems . ya know there is more to look at before you just slap a new Head Gskt. to it and call it good . sleeve height , how flat is the Block and head . are you usen a QUALITY torque wrench or ya usen a Harbor freight one , Those are GARBAGE . Did you chase the threads in the block ? did ya chase the head bolt threads????? Did you use a junk gskt ??????? I was down at one of my old customers putting back together a 440 John Deere Crawled that he took apart many years back then could not figure out how to put it back together . As i was putting the engine back together i went to get my torque wrench when he said here use mine i just bought it up at Harbor freight . Ok so we started to use it and when one has twisted bolts and nuts aslong as i have you get a feel for things and something just did not feel right and i stopped and went and got mine , mine just came back from getting reset and certified , yea his was way off on the light side , His set at 50 Ft.Lb.'s and mine at50 his was off by 25 lb.s . While working full time it went in once a year , now once ever five and due to go in here soon as soon as i can catch the snap on guy .
 
We just went through this with our 706 with a D282. Had an IH mechanic that is normally known for doing good work replace the gasket the first time at his home shop - the head gasket blew when we were driving it off the trailer when we brought it home. We put a second head gasket in after having the head milled - it lasted about a month then blew on a cold startup (no either). It turned out we had fuel injectors that were leaking horribly (partial hydrolock(?)). My son suspected two of them and it turned out 5 of the 6 were bad with very low (or no) pressure to get them to pop. Had them lapped at a fuel injector shop in Salina KS and we reinstalled them after head was milled again. The tractor was running just fine with the leaky injectors with no stumbling or excessive smoke. It does appear to be running better now. It had about 400 hours put on it this summer without an issue.

Probably the best move we made (besides having the injectors checked) was using NEW head bolts - they are expensive but you can get CAT head bolts a lot cheaper than the IH head bolts (it appears the IH are made in China anyway).

I would drop the oil pan first to see were the coolant is coming from. The first time ours blew it was leaking coolant externally, the second time it was blowing compressed air out the side of the engine, the third time it was leaking a small amount of coolant internally.
 
(quoted from post at 18:25:53 01/03/23) Nope if the cooler is bad you will have OIL in the coolent not the other way around .
I had a logging truck with a NTC 400 hp Cummins Diesel. I changed oil in it one time and when I poked a hole in the oil filter to drain the oil at first anti freeze came out. Brought it to a Cummins Diesel shop and they found out it was the oil cooler. They said it usually leaks oil into radiator, but on occasion it can leak the other way like it did for me.
DWF
 

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