My 2015 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 has developed a automatic transmission torque converter shutter during the last year. Thought I would try the red tube Shutter Stopper. Only 2 ounces. Pour it down the dipstick tube. It is hard to believe but it actually has made some of the shutter go away and when it does you sort of have to know what you are either listening or feeling for. It is a friction modifier. Is it making the oil slicker or more grab/friction? Can someone actually tell me what the 2 ounces of red fluid is doing? If a little is good at $10 a tube why not add more? Thanks.
- Thread starter andy r
- Start date
It's a friction modifier, it works the same way as the stuff you put in limited slip diff's. It makes the ATF slicker, or helps the clutches slip instead of grab. If it helps the real problem is degraded fluid and the best thing would be to actually change the trans fluid. You didn't state it but I assume this is the 6pd trans? If so, you might want to start saving for a rebuild.
Oh yes, a 6L80. As I understand it inorder to improve gas mileage as per government regulations GM programed the computers/transmission to have the torque converter lock up at lower MPH's. Probably put more torque on the converter as well as trying to lock up/unlock more times. Torque converter ended up being too light for what GM was expecting it to do. I did pull the pan and change the filter which allowed me to change out 4 or 5 quarts of transmission oil. Maybe I should change the oil 1 or 2 more times.
You're just delaying the inevitable and convincing yourself it's better. I have customers do it all the time. The converter is coming apart, the transmission is full of steel. By continuing to drive it, you are pushing it to the point the unit won't even be a good core. It will leave you stranded eventually.
Friction modifier and adding more might be detrimental.
Low mileage trans this is a good fix. Hi mileage trans this is a temp fix. Also depends upon the life you have exposed the trans to.
Hauling things tends to shorten it's life. Going to the weekly grocery store, not so much.
Changing fluid became a necessary thing when Sperm whales were no longer being hunted and trans fluid had that additive removed.
(read that someplace many, many years ago)
Synthetic fluid is supposedly once again a life time fluid fill on transmissions.
if you desire a decent fluid flush on your trans, Get a 5 gallon plastic bucket. pour in a gallon of water and mark the level.
Do it again twice more. Remove the oil line going to the trans cooler.
Place a rubber hose over the end and into the bucket.
Open a dozen bottles of trans fluid.
Preferably with a second person, start the engine, add fluid as it pours into the bucket. One gallon out, one gallon in. Try to keep the fluid level going in the same as coming out. You can have a 1 quart over/short without damage during this procedure.
Run the gear selector through the ranges while doing this, ~IF~ you have a second person.
You get to the third mark inside the bucket, shut it off, reinstall the line, check your fluid level.
Low mileage trans this is a good fix. Hi mileage trans this is a temp fix. Also depends upon the life you have exposed the trans to.
Hauling things tends to shorten it's life. Going to the weekly grocery store, not so much.
Changing fluid became a necessary thing when Sperm whales were no longer being hunted and trans fluid had that additive removed.
(read that someplace many, many years ago)
Synthetic fluid is supposedly once again a life time fluid fill on transmissions.
if you desire a decent fluid flush on your trans, Get a 5 gallon plastic bucket. pour in a gallon of water and mark the level.
Do it again twice more. Remove the oil line going to the trans cooler.
Place a rubber hose over the end and into the bucket.
Open a dozen bottles of trans fluid.
Preferably with a second person, start the engine, add fluid as it pours into the bucket. One gallon out, one gallon in. Try to keep the fluid level going in the same as coming out. You can have a 1 quart over/short without damage during this procedure.
Run the gear selector through the ranges while doing this, ~IF~ you have a second person.
You get to the third mark inside the bucket, shut it off, reinstall the line, check your fluid level.
Geo-TH,In
Well-known Member
Knock on Wood.
My 2007 GMC 1500 V6 has 125k and no converter issues yet.
I bought it new in 2007.
I had tranny fluid changed at 60K and 120K,
Some here on TT thought that was too soon.
I think an oz of prevention is worth a pound of gold.
I pulled an implement and dump trailer with it until I sold a rental property. Now the truck is semi-retired.
Rarely get driven. I get about half the mph my car gets.
My 2007 GMC 1500 V6 has 125k and no converter issues yet.
I bought it new in 2007.
I had tranny fluid changed at 60K and 120K,
Some here on TT thought that was too soon.
I think an oz of prevention is worth a pound of gold.
I pulled an implement and dump trailer with it until I sold a rental property. Now the truck is semi-retired.
Rarely get driven. I get about half the mph my car gets.
Hobo,NC
Well-known Member
- Location
- Sanford, NC
I try and catch those early and do a transmission cooler bypass so far all I have done live a good life no early failures.
You did prove its in the trans. The fluid has been depleted of additives letting the converter clutch grab/shutter.
Look up 6l80 bypass transmission cooler I use the Superior bypass then do a standard flush on the trans. Its not uncommon to replace the AC/trans cooler/condenser either for leaking. 2014 to 2019 are junk.
BarnyardEngineering
Well-known Member
- Location
- Rochester, NY
What is "shutter?" To me a shutter is a protective cover for windows and doors. Somehow I don't think your transmission is protectively covering a door or window.
I think a lot of people use "shutter" when they really mean "sTutter" like Porky Pig or "shuDDer" as in a shake.
But yeah, your snake oil is only a temporary fix. That generation of transmissions have a higher than normal failure rate. I have a 2015 with 145,000 on it. Spent over $6000 in engine repairs this year so far. Can't wait for the transmission to go and leave me with another $6000 in repairs. It's not worth anything to trade in because everyone knows the problems so I may as well keep driving it.
I think a lot of people use "shutter" when they really mean "sTutter" like Porky Pig or "shuDDer" as in a shake.
But yeah, your snake oil is only a temporary fix. That generation of transmissions have a higher than normal failure rate. I have a 2015 with 145,000 on it. Spent over $6000 in engine repairs this year so far. Can't wait for the transmission to go and leave me with another $6000 in repairs. It's not worth anything to trade in because everyone knows the problems so I may as well keep driving it.
are you sure it is the transmission? My 3500 SRW Ram developed what I would call a shedder when taking off and turning. It was more noticable when towing. I checked around and found that the rear differential requires adding a bottle of limitted slip differential fluid. That immediatly stopped it. It started again about 50,000 miles later so I simply added another bottle and it stopped instantly
Agreed. Drop the pan, change the filter and install a deeper pan with a drain plug. Giving the transmission 4 to 6 more quarts of transmission fluid to work with helps with the longevity of the transmission. Keeping the fluid fresh and relatively clean ads years of use.
Russ from MN
Well-known Member
- Location
- Bemidji MN
I too was confused by the word shutter! Shutters were used on old tractors for temperature control. We had a Ford Thunderbird that developed a shudder in the torque converter, we just changed the torque converter and it was fine afterwards. Less than $200, we changed it ourselves.
MarkB_MI
Well-known Member
- Location
- Motown USA
I've had a transmission shop owner call it 'shutter', which is really annoying to me because 'shudder' describes the symptom perfectly. Reminds my of my BIL, who keeps referring to concrete spalling as 'spalding', even though I've repeatedly told him there is no 'd' in 'spalling' and that Spalding is a brand of volleyball.
I tried the Shudder Fix on our 2012 GMC Acadia, and it seemed to help for a while but the shudder got worse and we had the transmission rebuilt. (As it turned out, the transmission guy isn't any better at transmission repair than he is at spelling, but that's another story.)
The friction modifier makes your transmission fluid more slippery, so the TC doesn't engage quite so quick. If it gets too slippery the clutch plates will start to slip, so I wouldn't recommend adding more. Plus, it takes a few hundred miles for the friction modifier to work its way into the clutch plates.
Back in the nineties, a lot of motorcyclists started using synthetic oils in their bikes. Pretty much all motorcycles (except BMW) use wet clutches, and often the synthetic oils led to clutch slip. As a result, the API came out with a new spec for wet-clutch motorcycles called 'MA'. Synthetic MA oils leave out the friction modifiers.
You may recall back before synthetic gear oil was available, you could buy a special additive to make your limited slip differential engage smoother. That was also a fritction modifier. No longer needed with synthetic gear oil.
I tried the Shudder Fix on our 2012 GMC Acadia, and it seemed to help for a while but the shudder got worse and we had the transmission rebuilt. (As it turned out, the transmission guy isn't any better at transmission repair than he is at spelling, but that's another story.)
The friction modifier makes your transmission fluid more slippery, so the TC doesn't engage quite so quick. If it gets too slippery the clutch plates will start to slip, so I wouldn't recommend adding more. Plus, it takes a few hundred miles for the friction modifier to work its way into the clutch plates.
Back in the nineties, a lot of motorcyclists started using synthetic oils in their bikes. Pretty much all motorcycles (except BMW) use wet clutches, and often the synthetic oils led to clutch slip. As a result, the API came out with a new spec for wet-clutch motorcycles called 'MA'. Synthetic MA oils leave out the friction modifiers.
You may recall back before synthetic gear oil was available, you could buy a special additive to make your limited slip differential engage smoother. That was also a fritction modifier. No longer needed with synthetic gear oil.
Geo-TH,In
Well-known Member
After rebuilding the dana 411 rear end on terramite, I used synthetic Gear lub designed for limited slip differential.
The synthetic Gear lub didn't work.
Limited slip clutches made a terrible noise.
I thought I was going to have to rebuild the rear end a second time until I found the old valvoline with additives added to GL.
If I leave the 4010 kaw mule in 4 wheel while not driving on dirt, the limited slip talks. Scary sound.
The synthetic Gear lub didn't work.
Limited slip clutches made a terrible noise.
I thought I was going to have to rebuild the rear end a second time until I found the old valvoline with additives added to GL.
If I leave the 4010 kaw mule in 4 wheel while not driving on dirt, the limited slip talks. Scary sound.
BarnyardEngineering
Well-known Member
- Location
- Rochester, NY
They know these trucks are ticking time bombs, and won't give you anything.
Traditional Farmer
Well-known Member
- Location
- Virginia
Like about 90% of people call concrete cement.
MarkB_MI
Well-known Member
- Location
- Motown USA
> Like about 90% of people call concrete cement.
cement noun
cement si-'ment also 'sē-ment
1 a : concrete
b : a powder of alumina, silica, lime, iron oxide, and magnesium oxide burned together in a kiln and finely pulverized and used as an ingredient of mortar and concrete
also : any mixture used for a similar purpose
What Webster says
cement noun
cement si-'ment also 'sē-ment
1 a : concrete
b : a powder of alumina, silica, lime, iron oxide, and magnesium oxide burned together in a kiln and finely pulverized and used as an ingredient of mortar and concrete
also : any mixture used for a similar purpose
What Webster says
Robert, NC
Member
The convertor is coming apart. On the 6L we just go ahead and change the convertor for a new one if there is not metal in the panel and the fluid isn't burnt.
rlp in Co.
Well-known Member
Can't you just unhook the wire to the lock up torque converter? Isn't there a range on the transmission lever for towing that eliminates the lockup torque converter?
BarnyardEngineering
Well-known Member
- Location
- Rochester, NY
Tow haul mode makes the torque converter lock up MORE, not less.
Locking the torque converter keeps the fluid temperatures lower.
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