John Deere 650 no start

jd14837

New User
Hi Everyone

I have a 1980 JD 650 that was running well earlier in the day until i parked it. When trying to start, it will turn over and spit and spudder some but will not fire up. It has fresh diesel and a new fuel filter. I have bled the system according to the manual and still only get greyish white smoke while turning over. I am pretty sure I'm not getting enough fuel pressure coming from the injection pump. I have good fuel coming from the fuel filter to the pump inlet but when I removed a line from the injector and turned the tractor over, it does spit some fuel but has hardly any pressure behind it. According to the manual the pump should be making about 4500 psi pressure and i need like 2200 psi to push through the injection nozzle. I am not even getting enough pressure to the nozzle to put a hole in a piece of paper. Please help if anyone has other ideas or has run into this issue....
 

The pump sends fuel to the nozzle. The injection nozzle has internals that act like a relief valve and pop off at a pre-set pressure to spray. The pressure is not that much when the line is loose/unhooked.
 
White smoke indicates that your fuel is getting there just no combustion. Either low compression or
your glow plugs are not working. Do you know what I am talking about when I say glow plugs?
 
i removed the hose off the intake and turned the key to the left to see if would heat up. I did start to get warm, and some smoke came out, so I believe it is working.
 
What is the temperature where the tractor is and how
long did it set before wanting to restart it? How long
have you had the tractor? It sounds like you are
describing a manifold air heater. That requires

The key has to be held over to the left a prescribed
amount of time to heat up each time before you try to
start it. If this tractor is new to you and it sat out in the
cold and cooled down to a temp lower then it has been
started at in the past you may just simply not be using
the manifold heater enough to get it to start.
 
When that engine is right, after you pull the throttle back to stop it, watch the cooling fan it will rock back and forth as the engine stops if the compression is good.
 
Meant to add to the above post. I was mowing with my 650 one day and as I was going along it suddenly went to skipping, sputtering and blowing gray smoke. I wound up having to have the injection pump rebuilt before it ran again.
Gene Davis Tennille.Ga.
 
i have owned the tractor for about a year now and has been a great a little tractor. The tractor is located in NY and the day is died it was only in the 30's. However, we have towed it back and it's in the garage which is heated 60's and get the same no start. I know there was glow plugs mentioned and I don't believe mine has glow plugs. I believe i only have the intake heater which seems to be working. I did own this last winter and it did start up under 30F before. I'm Thinking i might have to try and pull an injector to check compression. This might be wrong thinking when it comes to compression, but when i put my hand over the intake while turning the engine over it has plenty of suction
 


Those engines don't have a fuel transfer pump and the injection pump is ''returnless'' and can be a real bugger to bleed the air out of.

Have you had the line fittings loose at BOTH injectors and cranked it long enough to get all the air out of the I.P.?

If you have good help and can do it safely, try ''pull starting'' it to give a faster cranking speed with some duration to the pull.

If none of this helps, something MAY have happened with the internal linkage from the governor to the injection pump ''rack'' so that the barrels are not being rotated to the ''full fuel'' position.

IIRC, I have heard of a pin in the internal governor-to-I.P. linkage falling out.

Any chance the engine got a dose of ''bad'' fuel/water, etc.?
That could damage/stick the plunger ''barrels'' in the I.P..

I do not know your level of experience with diesel engines, but I'm sure you are aware if you pull and injector you will need a new gasket, and to thoroughly clean the bore and seating area in the head.

If you are considering tearing into the injection pump and governor area you NEED a factory manual and good attention to detail BEFORE going there.

The internal linkage can be damaged if you try to remove the I.P. without first disconnecting it. Timing was set at the factory with a stack of shims under the I.P..

Probably check around FIRST with injection pump shops in your area to find one set up with the necessary fixture to mount your I.P. to for testing. (It is operated by lobes on the engine's camshaft.)

When you find a shop that can service it, ask if there's anything you should try/do first, before removing the pump.
 
makes sense, would it make sense for me to pull an injector and see what it looks like outside of the tractor? maybe turn the tractor
over and see in fuel is making it through the nozzle
 


It appears that you are tending towards the serious possibilities before the easy ones because you expected high pressure to the injector. The timing of refusing to start with new filter and fresh filter is suspect. Does it have a fuel water separator? If not you should check for water in the tank by running some fuel out of a connection prior to the filter. How is your cranking speed compared to earlier?
 
It does have a water Seperator, and it did have about a 1/2 inch in it. I did replace the filter and i drained the entire tank prior to refueling with fresh diesel. as far as cranking over everything seems to be as it was. I checked governor timing and pulled the inspection cover off to verify the throttle was working. Everything appears good.
 

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