Prestolite Distributor questions

stevieb49829

Well-known Member
I'm working on the distributor for my F-162 Continental 4 cylinder. It has a lot of slop, but not in the main shaft/bushings. They are .002-.003 clearance between the shaft and bushings. The slop is in the spiral-cut upper shaft that the centrifugal advance pivots on. There's way too much wear on that shaft, so the advance mechanism can cock back and forth enough that the rotor rubs up against the cap contacts. I've been looking for a NOS shaft, but a shaft for this Prestolite IAT-4405 distributor does not seem to be available. Any help finding a shaft would be appreciated. I'm thinking of building up the shaft with brass brazing and turning it down to closer tolerances. Would that work?
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This distributor had a vacuum advance on it at one time. The plate pivots well. Is it worth scrounging up a vacuum module for it, in a MH 101 Jr? Right now it has a chunk of copper wire holding it in a fixed position.
 
There shouldnt be a vacuum advance on that model of tractor Steve. I would build it up as you said and turn it down. Electronic might be an option but Im not a big fan. I like the old points and condenser ignition.
 
I'm with you on the points and condenser. You don't fix a faulty ignition module with a short piece of 600 grit wet or dry paper, and a screwdriver. I'm firing up the torch in the morning and do some brazing.
 
take an oversized bushing and drill it back down inside, and turn it back down outside...... or knerl the existing bushings to increase their size. It works for valve guides... That however would only last for around 40 years or so.
 
I'll just make a suggestion here.
Brass brazing would probably work, just n ot for long. Why? Because brass is soft and will wear away quickly and you will be back where you started minus your time and effort.

My suggestion would be to build it up with weld. Real steel. Then turn it down and it would probably last for as long as you will own it. Just my suggestion.
 
Jim, I'm leaning the way of forgetting the brass. However, that spiral-cut shaft, which is not hard, might be pressed into the main shaft. AND a 5/16 drill shank fits precisely inside the points cam (which is super hard steel). I'm about ready to twist the spiral shaft off, put the main shaft in a lathe, and counter bore for a 5/16 HSS press-fit pin to replace the spiral shaft. There's a retaining grove at the top for a snap ring, but that would not be a problem duplicating that. It has provisions at the top of this set-up for oiling it, so I may have to grind grooves down the drill steel to distribute oil. steve
 

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