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Super A problem.

C

CBradford

New User
Will crank and run on low idle with full choke, as soon as you raise idle speed up or take choke off, the engine dies. Have cleaned carburetor twice.
 
Check your points gap and condition, check the spark quality at the plug end of each wire. Sounds strange, but weak spark can cause the same symptoms you describe.

If spark checks good to the plugs, then move to the fuel system.

With the fuel valve open, engine off, remove the drain plug from the carb bowl, catch the flow in a clean glass. It should have a steady flow, not slow to a drip or stop flowing. Look at what was caught, check for water and trash. If fuel is contaminated, chances are the same is in the tank and carb. Trying to run with a dirty, rust flaking tank is a losing proposition! It needs clean fuel to consistently run well.

If that checks good, revisit the carb, sounds like the main jet is restricted or set too lean. Fuel passages need to be scraped clean with a wire or torch tip cleaner. Cleaners and compressed air will not get them fully clean!
 
Check real fuel flow first. Use a clean can to catch fuel under the carb and remove the drain plug. Fuel should flow more than a half pint/minute. fast at first, then steady. If not, the sediment bowl tank inlet to bowl, shut off valve, ir screen at the carb inlet fitting may be plugged.
Next make sure there are no vacuum leaks at the carb to manifold or manifold to head. Use a propane torch with the mixing head (tip) removed, and supply modest amounts of propane all around those gaskets. (do this outside!!)
the next step is to soak the disassembled carb in carb cleaner, not spray can, overnight. Then rinse and blow dry. Then use a thin wire to probe all passages, and blow out again. Jim
 
There's cleaning and then there is cleaning of a carb. I have had to clean some carbs three times to get them to work correctly. I use compressed air and torch tip cleaners to do mine. It doesn't take much to mess up a carb. Try pulling the choke out half way and then try running the rpm up. If the tractor runs okay with the choke half way out, then you still have a carb problem.

OTJ
 
Another possibility like what happened on my son's 140 is that there is a filter screen in the elbow, where the fuel line connects onto the carb can be partially plugged. You'll have to remove the elbow from the carb to check it.
 
You need to learn simple trouble shooting.
#1 check that you have a good blue/white spark that will jump a 1/4 inch gap or more at all the plugs.
#2 check and make sure you have a good steady flow of gas out of the drain plug that will fill a pint jar in 2 minutes.
#3 when was the last time you checked the air cleaner and dumped the water and mud and fill it with fresh oil
#4 if you can hold your hand over the air intake of the carb while you try to start it. You should get a good suction and also should get gas on your hand when you do that. In some cases doing that is enough to fix the problem due to doing that can suck the dirt etc. out of where it is hiding
 
I learned about that filter many, many years ago after working on a Super A for too many hours on a hot summer day.
 
Done all this, still not running checked points,recapped points to .013, rotor button, and distributer.
 
It's either the elbow on the carb or the screen in the gas bowl I have been just taking the drain plug off the carb and put a small blow gun up to where plug was and have someone else turn gas on and off. Be sure to blow it with gas on
 
Been a long time since I was around a C does it have that same tang problem as the H and M can. IF so that is probably the issue more than a carb. If they are off it will not run up or will run wide open with no idle.
 
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