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GM HEI Distributer

M

Mark-Ia

Well-known Member
I have this GM HEI distributor. I want to use it to replace the original distributor in my 68 Chevy Pickup. Can I remove the 4 pigtail plug? I've got the plugin that plugs into the dist. cap for power.
cvphoto137451.jpg
 
Just connect the A and C wires of that plug and it will work. Leaving it the way you have it, won't work, engine won't fire. Somebody might chime in if you can get rid of the plug, but then you will have to change internals.
 
(quoted from post at 12:38:58 10/06/22) Just connect the A and C wires of that plug and it will work. Leaving it the way you have it, won't work, engine won't fire. Somebody might chime in if you can get rid of the plug, but then you will have to change internals.
Click to expand...

Yes, jumper the terminals on the internal ignition module where the green and black wires connect.

You can then eliminate the connector at the module and the wires exiting the distributor with their attached connector.

Since the distributor was designed for electronic spark control the centrifugal and mechanical advance curves may be different than a simple HEI distributor, it would be a good idea to check that out with a timing light once you get installed and the engine running.
 
From the looks of it, I would guess it's been in storage a while.

Be a good time to take it apart, clean it up, fill the grease chamber, free up the centrifugal advance.

Those were known for the wires breaking where they flex at the pick up coil, be a good idea to replace that while its apart.

I guess you can still buy a kit from the speed shop that has an assortment of weights, springs, new bushings for the weights, replaces all the worn advance components, lets you play with the timing curve.

And a new vacuum advance, and rotor would top everything off.
 
The simplest way was explained by connecting the green and black wires, labeled A & C on the connector hard shell.

If you feel like taking it apart or replacing the electronics, you can buy a regular 4 pin module and pickup coil to put back in, eliminating all the ESC. This option might be putting you close to the cost of a reman distributor, especially if you have a problem with the vacuum or centrifugal advance. Most come with a new cap and rotor too, which if needed puts you closer to the reman price.
 
It appears that A and C wire has been connected before with a scotch lock. I will connect them again . Thanks for the replies.
 
Make sure you remove the resistance wire from the harness, or it will never run right. Personally, I'd rather have the points.
 

Nothing much to add other than I thought I jumped A to C and B to D. I am sure you can google it. I use to have the tooling/kit to repair the centrifugal advance I don't know what became of it. Misplaced are loaned out its M.I.A. The holes the bushings went in were harden you had to heat it read hot then let cool to drill them out. I brought the kit from Sosmetal.

If I had a HEI set up I would never change it back to points HEI is about as easy to repair as it gets and has a lot of bang in it.
 
(quoted from post at 05:58:42 10/07/22) Make sure you remove the resistance wire from the harness, or it will never run right. Personally, I'd rather have the points.
Click to expand...

Good point: if you don't have the full 12v to the dizzy, it will not run well at all.

Another thing to think about: if you truck is a 4WD (K-Model), the engine sits further back than the 2WD (C-Model). There is precious little room to work on the distributor once it's in. Do everything you can on the bench. It barely fits in my '69, but I have known guys that had to hammer on the firewall to make theirs fit.

The reason I don't go back to points is the crap shoot that is new pints and condensers these days. But I have my original dizzy with new parts (that is, new parts back when they were good parts) and wires in the shop in case I ever need it.

Oh, yeah: don't forget to widen the gap on the plugs. The HEI will prefer about .045.
 
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