re work trailer frame

We have been given a trailer frame with 2 x 7 tube frame and 35 feel long with tamdom axels that was a 38foot travel trailer.
???? question and information >>>
would like to re arrange the tongue section: presently it has a light angled cross member that intersects the two 2 x 7 square tubes to the hitch. MUCH TOO LIGHT for my liking.
Will be shortening the overall length to around 22 to 25 feet. The new tongue should be welded under the frame in a v formation. Where and how far back and of what dimensions should the new tongue section be?
I don't have any drawings that describe. or assist me.
Thank you for any and all assistance.
Wm.
 
what do you intend to use it for? I do not think that you are ever going to turn a camper into a heavy haul trailer without replacing all of the steel. The two trailers are very different in construction and load capability.
 
Unless you are hauling something very light, I would be careful trusting that frame.

Campers are built as minimally as possible. The frame and the camper body work together to give the whole assembly strength and rigidity. Take away the body and there will be a lot of twisting and flexing.

But if you decide to use it, the rule of thumb is to position the axles and tongue length so there is about 10% of the total weight on the hitch. Also keep the tongue long enough for the corners of the bed to clear the ends of the tow vehicle bumper when backing sharply.
 
I don't trust my welding and engineering skills enough to make a trailer that is going to be used on the nation's highways and potentially kill someone if a weld fails or I didn't design it properly..

For piece of mind, I bought a new 10k dump trailer and a new 14k implement trailer both in 2011.
Only had to replace tires. No welds have failed. Electric brakes work perfectly. No electrical problems..

Good luck.
 
I think I had the same trailer frame a couple of years ago. IF you are planning to haul anything over about a ton, and anywhere very far front or behind the axle mounts, you don't want to build a trailer out of this frame. IF you are talking 4 snowmobiles, side by side, go for it. Is the original hitch you have on this frame a 2 inch, or 2-5/16? If 2 inch, don't try to build a heavy-haul trailer out of it, there's not enough strength engineered into the frame. steve
 
I have a similar trailer.Made from an old 5th wheel tyravel trailer. it has a 15' flat deck with a 2 ft beaver tail. pulled with a 1970 F100(302,4sp). an M farmall is about as heavy as it wants. However,I once hauled my 826H home after the water pump failed. it was really too much.The front axle is centered at 7(+/_).I like to load it with the rear tractor axle centered over the rear axle.Engine foreward. That is where it seems to balance best without overloading a halfton pickup.I agree with the other guys that a tubular frame is not the strongest.And,any water that gets inside will cause rust that will weaken and eventually fail.Add salt from wet snowy roads and it gets worse. An I beam is the strongest.For alight duty you could get by. For a heavy duty,do something different.Lately,I have been wondering about the 'structural integrety' of my trailer.
 
True. Camper trailer frames depend on the structure of the camper for a lot of their rigidity.

I once went to a Chief Industries auction where they had about a dozen bare fifth wheel frames, among other things. People flocked all over them, thinking they could make great flatbed trailers out of them. Then when people looked them over they realized the frames were too light to make a serious flatbed out of.
 
If it was given to you it is likely worth what you paid for it. See the thread about scrap prices, above. I sure would not want to have that trailer on the highway with my family anywhere near.
 
Go over and look at the PJ trailers website. They will tell you what size channel steel they used to build various weight capacity trailers. IIRC they use 4", 5", 6", and 8" channel depending on capacity.

Weld-on couplers will determine the angle of the tongue channels, and they'll attach where they meet the main lengthwise beams of the trailer.
 
I bought a 20ft travel trailer frame bumper pull tandem axle. It originally was a 4 channel iron with a notch cut out in the back for the sewer pipe. Added another 4 channel to the top then framed a 8ft wide floor. Used it for a few years then when I had a little more money added another 4 channel and a goose neck, another axle and a dove tail. One of several dozen trips to Dallas, I came back total weight 28,749 lbs. Left the sewer notch.
 

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