2N Ran Last Spring But Not Now

RQuam

New User
My 2N sat all winter so I started it before summer just to make sure it would still run. It did and I was happy.

But now it won't start. Pulled #4 spark plug and there is spark but after trying to start it, the plug is not getting wet. I'm thinking I have a carburetor issue. Loosened the bottom plug and got lots of fuel out (ethanol-free gas).

Anything else I can check or am I due for a carb rebuild?
 
I believe you are in for a carb rebuild. Lots of fuel, spark but no wet plugs says

that something in the carb is plugged. It won't take long to pull

the carb and check it out. Clean all the little passages, jets and check the float and needle valve.
 
A good test for a no start, disable the ignition, hold your hand tightly over
the air inlet of the carb, have an assistant spin the engine through.

You should get a strong vacuum, and a hand wet with gas.

No or weak vacuum, blow back, there is a valve problem, likely stuck open
valves.

Vacuum but no fuel, the main jet is blocked, or no fuel in the bowl.

If those check good and still no start, try a teaspoon of oil in each
cylinder. That will raise the compression enough it might fire.
 
6V or 12V? 99.98% of all non-starting issues are due to incorrect wiring regardless if 6V or 12V. DEAD BATTERY likely culprit. If you don't keep the battery on a float
charger (DELTRAN BATTERY TENDER JR) when tractor is idle and parked in the barn for over week, it will lose specific gravity and deplete cells. A basic trickle charger
won't do diddly squat as it can boil out the battery if left unattended. Best to take battery to a local starter/alt shop and have it tested on their special machine. The
battery is the heart of any machine. It must maintain a full charge under load. You need a fully charge battery to: Spin The Starter Motor; Engage the Bendix drive; and
Provide correct voltage to the Coil for Ignition. Use a good brand battery, cheap bargain house brands typically have poor lifespans. While battery is out being tested,
verify entire wiring is correct using manuals, pictograms, and your VOM set to continuity. Can also perform The Fuel Flow Test with a cold engine. Remove drain plug on
bottom of carb, open SED BULB VALVE 2 TURNS. Fuel Flow unobstructed, 1 pint in 2 minutes. Pass? Leave alone. Fail? Check entire fuel system: 3 screens first in N system.
Removing the carb and rebuilding is last option. My email is open for more detailed info.

Tim Daley(MI)
 
I would take the intake pipe off of the
carb and give her a little snort of ether
and see if it runs briefly.
 
IT RUNS AGAIN! After correcting my stupid mistakes, I got it running again.

The original issue, I think, was from the distributor. I installed a new one along with new coil, plugs and wires. Still wouldn't start. Thought it was a carb issue because when I pulled #4 plug, it was dry.

One of the suggestions was to put my hand in front of the carb inlet to check for vacuum. There was.

Did compression check and came up with, from #1 to #4, 50, 55, 85, and 85. Not good but at least the valves seemed to be working. I had wondered if one was stuck.

Checked the plug wiring at the distributor and found I had messed up pretty seriously. Got that corrected but still no start but I did get a small backfire. Checked the plugs wires again and found #1 and #2 reversed. Corrected that and it started.

I want to thank all who responded to my request for help. It's nice to know that I wasn't completely on my own. There were some good suggestions that I will remember for the future.

Richard

This post was edited by RQuam on 09/22/2022 at 04:00 pm.
 

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