Manitou rough terrain forklift transmission problem

Hi all
I know its not a tractor but maybe someone on here can help me with my old Manitou MB26JC shuttle shift forklift
I thinks its 1980s vintage and has a Ford three cylinder engine and shuttle shift torque converter transmission
I believe some older tractors and backhoes use the same skid unit
Its never had great drive since I got it but recently the drive in forward and reverse failed completely
I tried checking levels, changing filters and visual inspection of the linkages with no success
I bought a pressure gauge and tested the transmission fluid pump pressure through the inspection plate under the gearbox and the pressure seems fine, through this aperture I can see the torwue converter spinning when the engine is running and some drips of fluid in this area which I think should be totally dry
I have started to try to remove the engine to access the gearbox, pump, seals, shift valves, clutch rings etc. but it looks like you cannot just lift the engine back to clear the gearbox as it and tye gearbox are bolted to a frame that looks like it holds the axle just in front of the counterweight
One if my questions is do I have to remove the counterweight and unbolt the frame and roll the while lot back with yhe engine to split the engine from the box and if so whats the best way to do this?
I cant find a shop manual for this machine only a manual fir a Ford backhoe which seems to share the same skid unit, engine and box but of course the frame is totally different
Any help with the method to split or what the fault might be would be much appreciated

Hopefully someone who has one will come along with some info for you. If so they will likely ask you what model you have. In the meantime you might use the Find Your Dealer feature on this Manitou website page: https://www.manitou.com/en-US/contact-manitou . A dealer might be able to help you get a manual. My guess is you won't find those manuals for free and you will need your model and its serial number to get the right one.

I don't know but you could get a lizard cam or similar model and run it up through the oil drain hole and from above to scope everything out. You can take screenshots with your phone cam. Would also take a magnet with a long flexible extension and run it up through the drain hole and from up above to pickup any metal that may be there in the bottom. Same process can be used for oil pan and rear ends.

I think every mech a nic ought to have one of those cams especially as cheap as they are to inspect bearings etc. Run one in a spark plug hole to see what is going on with pistons and valves. Use to check brakes. Guess I'll start a separate topic on this. Good luck.

Hi Bob my 48 years of being involved with Manitou machines tells me you have striped
the splines out of the middle of the torque converter witch is bolted to the rear of
the engine flywheel. MJ

Would the torque converter be static if the splines are stripped as I can see it spinning with the engine running when looking up in to the pressure test aperture under the gearbox

No Bob, you will have to remove the engine to see the drive plate as it is like a
clutch plate. MJ

Carrying on from my old post after a while I have got the forklift split, engine out and started stripping the transmission, the torque converter looks ok no damage on the connecting stub, has a rattle on shaking it but it looks like that is normal? I suppose I have to get it tested, refurbished or replaced? I have seen anplace on Ebay offering this repair service for around 250 is this a normal price ?
I have got the front set of clutch discs out and not sure what they should look like, they have some slight scoring on the steel smooth faces and discernible grooves on the grooved mating can t see how to attach pics on here how do I decide if the clutch disc set is good enough to put back in as I know they are expensive to replace ?

(quoted from post at 15:21:33 09/03/22) Carrying on from my old post after a while I have got the forklift split, engine out and started stripping the transmission, the torque converter looks ok no damage on the connecting stub, has a rattle on shaking it but it looks like that is normal? I suppose I have to get it tested, refurbished or replaced? I have seen anplace on Ebay offering this repair service for around 250 is this a normal price ?
I have got the front set of clutch discs out and not sure what they should look like, they have some slight scoring on the steel smooth faces and discernible grooves on the grooved mating can t see how to attach pics on here how do I decide if the clutch disc set is good enough to put back in as I know they are expensive to replace ?

Click to expand...

Alexander's Tractor Parts or Joseph Industries for the reman converter and seals, gaskets, clutch parts.

https://www.external_link.com/torque-converter-transmission-parts.html

https://www.joseph.com/remanufactured_torque_converters.asp

As far as you're in now, you have to install a reman converter, frictions, steels, seals/gaskets and sealing rings. Good idea to do the pump if she's scored. Check your pickup screen to see if it's plugged. Check out all the bearings. Sounds like your clutch drum, snap rings and pistons are good. Look the oil divider over closely. If you see anything that doesn't look right, it isn't. Was the .250x5/8" pin between the inside bellcrank and main control valve good. Post back when you've got her cleaned out and cleaned up. These shuttles aren't rocket science.

(quoted from post at 15:21:33 09/03/22) Carrying on from my old post after a while I have got the forklift split, engine out and started stripping the transmission, the torque converter looks ok no damage on the connecting stub, has a rattle on shaking it but it looks like that is normal? I suppose I have to get it tested, refurbished or replaced? I have seen anplace on Ebay offering this repair service for around 250 is this a normal price ?
I have got the front set of clutch discs out and not sure what they should look like, they have some slight scoring on the steel smooth faces and discernible grooves on the grooved mating can t see how to attach pics on here how do I decide if the clutch disc set is good enough to put back in as I know they are expensive to replace ?

Click to expand...

Alexander's Tractor Parts or Joseph Industries for the reman converter and seals, gaskets, clutch parts.

https://www.external_link.com/torque-converter-transmission-parts.html

https://www.joseph.com/remanufactured_torque_converters.asp

As far as you're in now, you have to install a reman converter, frictions, steels, seals/gaskets and sealing rings. Good idea to do the pump if she's scored. Check your pickup screen to see if it's plugged. Check out all the bearings. Sounds like your clutch drum, snap rings and pistons are good. Look the oil divider over closely. If you see anything that doesn't look right, it isn't. Was the .250x5/8" pin between the inside bellcrank and main control valve good. Post back when you've got her cleaned out and cleaned up. These shuttles aren't rocket science.

This site is getting better at restricting what one can post. The AI doesn't like references to other sites selling parts, even when YT doesn't offer them.

Alexander's Tractor Parts or Joseph Industries for the reman converter and seals, gaskets, clutch parts.

www.external_link.com/torque-converter-transmission-parts.html

www.joseph.com/remanufactured_torque_converters.asp

As far as you're in now, you have to install a reman converter, frictions, steels, seals/gaskets and sealing rings. Good idea to do the pump if she's scored. Check your pickup screen to see if it's plugged. Check out all the bearings. Sounds like your clutch drum, snap rings and pistons are good. Look the oil divider over closely. If you see anything that doesn't look right, it isn't. Was the .250x5/8" pin between the inside bellcrank and main control valve good. Post back when you've got her cleaned out and cleaned up. These shuttles aren't rocket science.

This site is getting better at restricting what one can post. The AI doesn't like references to other sites selling parts, even when YT doesn't offer them.

Alexander's Tractor Parts or Joseph Industries for the reman converter and seals, gaskets, clutch parts.

As far as you're in now, you have to install a reman converter, frictions, steels, seals/gaskets and sealing rings. Good idea to do the pump if she's scored. Check your pickup screen to see if it's plugged. Check out all the bearings. Sounds like your clutch drum, snap rings and pistons are good. Look the oil divider over closely. If you see anything that doesn't look right, it isn't. Was the .250x5/8" pin between the inside bellcrank and main control valve good. Post back when you've got her cleaned out and cleaned up. These shuttles aren't rocket science.

You'll have to add in the www. before the rest of the cite.

external_link.com/torque-converter-transmission-parts.html

joseph.com/remanufactured_torque_converters.asp

When you go to Alexander's site, look under Transmission Components and click on Torque Converter Transmission Parts for the gasket, seal and friction kits. The converters are under Transmissions. $700 is pretty steep for a reman. They were $350 before the bug. They come from Joseph Industries so I'd give Joseph a call first. If you're a shop or have your shop place the order, Joseph will sell wholesale for a lot less. They also used to make the gasket/seal/friction kits and probably still do. Wholesale used to be half of retail, but I haven't bought anything since before the bug so I don't know reality now.

If your pressure tap is at the oil divider (accessed through the bottom of the bell housing), your machine was made before 10/81 if I remember correctly. You can decode her off the flat on the bellhousing above and behind the starter. She's no different than any other Ford of that era.

You already pulled your clutch pack apart. Too late to air check function unless you haven't pulled the pistons. If the pistons are still in the clutch drum, fill her up and set the snap rings and check her with shop air. If the piston seals are shot, you'll know pretty quick. Are any of the cast sealing rings broken. Is the input shaft hole through the oil divider scored or smooth. Do you see any orings that have failed. There's two plugs in the bottom right hand side of the oil divider. They'll need to be resealed. Is the relief valve working. Broken spring? Have you removed the blocker valve body. Are the pins and valves operational. If they failed or seized, you won't go anywhere.

With your explanation of "slow go pre failure", it sounds like you have an internal oil leak or failure to send pressure to the clutch pack. Check the main control valve and oil divider for damage as well as the seals on the clutch pistons. When they fail the pistons don't move much.

If you post up pictures of the components you're unsure of, you'll get some opinions re serviceability. It's nearly impossible to diagnose something sight unseen.

You need 5 or 6 posts before you can post pictures. Just make a bunch of test posts until you get past the limit switch. After that, open up a new post and look at the bottom of the page. Click on browse and locate the file that holds your picture and click upload. There's better explanations here if you do a search.

Pics of the clutch packs condition
Iam assuming these are too far gone to use again ?
I sent my torque converter away to be repaired or replaced and the company said there was wear inside but nothing that would stop the drive and sent me a new torque converter
I removed the fluid filter that sits in the housing behind the clutch and it was full of crud so cleaned it out and refitted it, Iam wondering if this blocked filter could have been the problem?
Iam in the UK so looking for a company here that can supply spares or maybe a US company that ships abroad

(quoted from post at 18:28:53 10/06/22) Pics of the clutch packs condition
Iam assuming these are too far gone to use again ?
I sent my torque converter away to be repaired or replaced and the company said there was wear inside but nothing that would stop the drive and sent me a new torque converter
I removed the fluid filter that sits in the housing behind the clutch and it was full of crud so cleaned it out and refitted it, Iam wondering if this blocked filter could have been the problem?
Iam in the UK so looking for a company here that can supply spares or maybe a US company that ships abroad

Click to expand...

Yes. Those steels and frictions are shot. I gave you two sources for parts. Contact Alexanders or Joseph and order parts. You can see what you're ordering from the info I posted re Alexander's web site. You're making progress.

Bobcr,

A bit of info you didn't get regarding making TEST posts.

For future reference, if you need to do tests again, there is a forum here specifically for TEST posts. It is a better place to make tests to avoid looking like spam in the regular forums. That forum is down near the bottom of the index list. Here is a link to it.

https://forums.yesterdaystractors.com/viewforum.php?f=1

These are the numbers stamped on the housing just above and behind the starter motor aperture how do I use them for identification?
3A 27 B
R104614