584IH hyd runs hot

I have a nice 584 IH industrial old dot machine hyd running hot I have changed the hyd oil and filter removed mcv replaced orings and gsks steering and lift work fine but have no oil going to cooler I have checked all valves in mcv found no problem removed cooler line s blew thru them ok started unit with lines off fittings had a little oil coming out of fitting on top of trans housing the jic fitting I did add shims to the bypass relief because it had very little spring press holding plunger down that s the only problem with the tractor

Well since you changed oil and filter that should solve that part of the equation so now have you cleaned out the oil cooler itself so you can see through the coil. If not that's a start . I would also take the shims out you put in and see where you are then. Since you say you had the MCV all apart did you happen to oil the o-rings as you installed them so they can slide easily in their bores? If not that could be a possible thing. Also do you know if the oil cooler is clear to circulate it doesn't take a lot of pressure to circulate the oil cooler circuit. Though it has about 300 PSI if I remember correctly. This is all based from the 574 we have and have worked on over the last 40 years or more.

yes all lines and cooler are clear and clean I just don t have any oil coming out of oil cooler port in mcv line removed and tractor running

Hello Wbalcorn welcome to YT! I have no experience
with that tractor just taking a stab at it. Did you go by a
book when you worked on the MCV or were you just
using the fiddle with this and that approach and see if
it helps. Not sure if you are aware you can view the
parts diagrams for your tractor on line. Look at number
14 in the link, they call it a cooler bypass valve behind
plug 17. I would double check it for any issues like
sticking, broken spring etc. I also agree with Cat guy, if
you just put shims behind a valve because you thought
it did not have enough spring pressure not really
knowing what you are adjusting I would also say take
them back out. You are not saying that there is a
problem with any hydraulic function you are just trying
to diagnose why it is getting hot. Secondly, how hot is
it getting? Hydraulic oil gets hot easily near 200F, if
you tore into it as much as you did I would guess you
probably have a pretty good idea when it is to hot. I
understand that it should flow oil through the cooler. A
hand held laser temp scanner can go a long ways to
help you diagnose a problem like this. You can get one
at auto parts stores or home improvement centers. You
are probably a PC guy so viewing that link on there will
give you navigation back to all the parts sections. On a
phone it may be easier to just search 584 in the search
box and choose it when it pops up.
CNHI 584 online parts diagrams

You need some gauges to check pressures with and then a flow chart of the oil flow when and where as it goes through the system. This will be in a blue ribbon service book. The gauges will take a bunch of fittings and such to get them connected like they need to be inorder for them to work like you need them to to find out anything.

You said it was an "old dot machine." What was it used for? A lot of these tracors had permanently mounted mowers or other implements on them, and someone may have just capped off a line when that implement was removed, causing the system to deadhead.

I agree with the 'deadhead' theory, possibly a closed center valve has been used where an open center should.

That might also account for no oil through the cooler.

Really need a hydraulic schematic and a shop manual before making changes. That will only compound problems.

thanks to all that have responded this is my first experience with this valve. I have done a lot of studying on it and got a i&t shop manual page 5 shows a exploded view and they do give a flow and press test also looked on line at flow charts they show a ta in diagram I don t have one.I acquired a flow meter from the shop and connected to press and return-ports for the lift to check the flow and the pressure but the flow sensor wasn t working so I got to wait to get this fixed The temp sensor worked hydraulics get 200 in less than 10 minutes sitting in Idling. I did get the main relief to pop off at around 2500 psi This machine does have a external Diverter valve and control valve We ll check them all possible dead head and will remove shims from cooler bypass valve again thanks to everyone I love this tractor especially the power steering also the heat problem was why I removed mcv to start with and this might be normal for this tractor but I don t think so

I have removed added on remote valve and got about 25psi does anyone know how much psi cooler circuit should have and what regulates press thanks for the help

well friends I am still searching for my over heating hyd problem I am checking my unloading valve it is on top of the trans cover right under the seat I have looked in the manual about the unloading valve piston because when I removed the plug I noticed free play between plug and piston and the orifices on either side of the oring on the piston are open with the plunger on the piston extended or retracted I have a high pressure leak somewhere and this valve will boil water after 30 mins. Of operating, mowing grass my question is should the piston have free travel in the bore and should the orifices be open all the time not much information about this in my manual