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JD-400-D Loader/Backhoe

N

NHEngineer

Member
JD-400-D (I think the D = diesel) has no tach. Does anyone have experience retrofitting an aftermarket tach? Is it even possible? From what I've seen on the WEB, it's a mechanically driven unit which means a drive cable is needed and, if there's no port on the block, there's probably not much of a chance unless I use a pulse sensing one.

mvphoto96280.jpg
 

My battery box, as you sit facing forward, is on the right side of the motor in front of the rear fender, somewhat in front of and about even with the step. I figured the tach drive shaft port would be in the back of the block up by the cam but access is a bit of a challenge. I'll check it out tomorrow if it stops raining.

A lady on eBay who sells aftermarket JD tachs told me she had no listing for a 1970 John Deere 400-D making her think it was never equipped with one. That I doubted but I didn't say so to her.
 
My bad, checked for 400D and it only showed the 400 tractor which is similar to my 300s and 301s. Sorry
 
From what I find in the JD parts catalogs 400D gets you "400D Articulated Dump Truck". When you say 400D, 400-d, etc., because it is diesel, it only confuses things as people are looking for a D series 400 tractor, which does not exist. Since these were available as gas or diesel, referring to it as a diesel 400 or 400 diesel would be best, omit the capital D.

To clear up confusion what is the entire serial number info from the tag. The tag should be on the right side of the transmission about 6 inches above the running board and transmission dipstick.

As for the tach. From the parts catalog it looks like there may have been a different cam used when tachometer equipped, as the tach cable was driven from gear installed in the rear of the camshaft. If it is equipped for a tach, there should be a place for the cable and driven gear to connect in the clutch housing plate at the rear of the engine about in line with the rear end of the cam.
 
(quoted from post at 08:37:18 08/23/22) From what I find in the JD parts catalogs 400D gets you "400D Articulated Dump Truck". When you say 400D, 400-d, etc., because it is diesel, it only confuses things as people are looking for a D series 400 tractor, which does not exist. Since these were available as gas or diesel, referring to it as a diesel 400 or 400 diesel would be best, omit the capital D.

To clear up confusion what is the entire serial number info from the tag. The tag should be on the right side of the transmission about 6 inches above the running board and transmission dipstick.

As for the tach. From the parts catalog it looks like there may have been a different cam used when tachometer equipped, as the tach cable was driven from gear installed in the rear of the camshaft. If it is equipped for a tach, there should be a place for the cable and driven gear to connect in the clutch housing plate at the rear of the engine about in line with the rear end of the cam.
Click to expand...

mvphoto96371.jpg


Sorry Jim. The last thing I want to do is anger folks here. I got the model and serial numbers from a 35-year-old bank document below:

mvphoto96367.jpg


The owner's manual shows the model and serial number to be just if front of the starter (I think).....

mvphoto96369.jpg


.....but there's nothing there:

mvphoto96370.jpg


Nothing here either:

mvphoto96373.jpg


This post was edited by NHEngineer on 08/23/2022 at 07:23 am.
 
No worry on angering anyone, just trying to help you avoid at least some of the wrong answers you have gotten and will get when people misunderstand what machine you are talking about.

The engine serial number tag was on the engine between the fuel transfer pump and end of the starter. There is no direct relationship generally available to the public between the engine and tractor serial numbers, and the engine could have been swapped over the years

You have rivets where the serial number tag for the tractor used to be.

mvphoto96392.jpg


I do not see a serial number that is for a JD 400 on that document. The number there might be a dealer inventory number.

The loader looks like, and should be, a JD Model 7400 for a 400 tractor.

This post was edited by Jim.ME on 08/23/2022 at 12:26 pm.
 
(quoted from post at 14:50:43 08/23/22) No worry on angering anyone, just trying to help you avoid at least some of the wrong answers you have gotten and will get when people misunderstand what machine you are talking about.

The engine serial number tag was on the engine between the fuel transfer pump and end of the starter. There is no direct relationship generally available to the public between the engine and tractor serial numbers, and the engine could have been swapped over the years

You have rivets where the serial number tag for the tractor used to be.

I do not see a serial number that is for a JD 400 on that document. The number there might be a dealer inventory number.

The loader looks like, and should be, a JD Model 7400 for a 400 tractor.

This post was edited by Jim.ME on 08/23/2022 at 12:26 pm.
Click to expand...

So, it looks like I'll need to retrofit a pulse counting tach. The tach install itself won't be too bad but getting access to a suitable pulley or the balancer hub may be a real chore. How about the timing hole on the flywheel housing?
 
(quoted from post at 16:33:58 08/23/22)
So, it looks like I'll need to retrofit a pulse counting tach. The tach install itself won't be too bad but getting access to a suitable pulley or the balancer hub may be a real chore. How about the timing hole on the flywheel housing?
Click to expand...

Is there a particular operational reason that leads you to believe you need to add a tach? Its been about 50 years without one. I have run a lot of equipment without tachometers, including units such as yours. If you have one, within hours I'll bet you don't bother to look at it. You will find a throttle position where the hoe works best and doing loader work you will likely use the foot throttle and go by feel on engine speed. If you want to check engine speed for maintenance, just get a handheld photo tach, then you can use it to check other engines and shafts. Just my opinion for what it's worth.
 
Looks very similar to my 401. Yours may be a 400 series . Im 1700 miles away from mine at the moment or Id share photos.
 
Judging by the picture, your tractor has led an interesting life. First, it's hard to tell without a serial number tag, but I'd say your tractor is a very early one- the throttle lever looks like one from a
very early 300 we had for a little while.

The dash has none of the original gauges- should be fuel, water temp, and a tach in the middle. Instead, it appears someone replaced the idiot lights for oil pressure and charging system with gauges, omitted
at least the fuel gauge, and I'm not sure what he gauge in the middle is?

As with another poster, you really don't need a tach to run the tractor. I seldom look at mine when running something like that. If you want one, you could get a more original cluster from a salvage tractor
(would be the same as 1020 or 2020 JD ag tractor) and install it. That would get you a fuel and temp gauge back, too.
 
(quoted from post at 17:23:34 08/23/22)
(quoted from post at 16:33:58 08/23/22)
So, it looks like I'll need to retrofit a pulse counting tach. The tach install itself won't be too bad but getting access to a suitable pulley or the balancer hub may be a real chore. How about the timing hole on the flywheel housing?
Click to expand...

Is there a particular operational reason that leads you to believe you need to add a tach?
Click to expand...

Want, not necessarily need. I need this thing to last long enough for me to do everything I need it to do and, since I have never even sat in one before, I don't want to unknowingly or unintentionally wreck it. I'll add a working oil pressure gauge, ammeter, voltmeter, correct the alternator circuit that was badly compromised and fix whatever else I find that was hacked and whacked. The previous owner just beat it up.

Oh yeah, I still need to fix the leaking fuel pump.

I only found out yesterday that the key switch switches nothing. It was probably intended to switch out the alternator exciter wire to keep from killing the batteries but it does nothing now.

It leaked hydraulic from every possible place when I first got it two weeks ago. Reluctantly but only after prodding I added Lucas hydraulic oil treatment and, low and behold and to my surprise, the leaks have been significantly diminished.

Speaking of which, to get the water our, I'd like to drain and refill the whole system after a while but I don't see how to purge the hoses without removing one end of each one. If I don't, there will still be water in the system. That's a ton of hoes ends.
 
x2 on the cheapo photo tach, but I understand the desire to restore it.

As to purging the lines & cylinders, I was wondering the same thing. On my open-center control valve, I have the power-beyond port energized so that's where all the fluid goes when just running, not doing anything. There is another "out" port that is normally used for full flow back to tank but I have it teed into the power-beyond return line back to tank. So, in my case, all this "out" port delivers is the fluid displaced from working cylinders & maybe some case drain. I'm thinking of disconnecting the line from the out port & directing it to the "bad" pail while operating cylinders. You wouldn't get it all unless you went thru a lot of new oil, but it beats disconnecting all those lines & cylinders as well as the mess.
 
Apologies, my idea probably won't help you if you have multiple valve banks but would work for the loader end if that valve supplies power-beyond for the hoe valves.
Another option might be to find a mobile mechanic with a portable hydraulic system filtering pump. Those filters ain't cheap but would save you a lot of work.
 
(quoted from post at 06:28:26 08/24/22) Speaking of which, to get the water our, I'd like to drain and refill the whole system after a while but I don't see how to purge the hoses without removing one end of each one. If I don't, there will still be water in the system. That's a ton of hoes ends.
Click to expand...

...which is precisely why it's rarely, if ever, done.

Just not practical.

Drain and refill through the normal means. The new oil will dilute what's left in the system. Working it will cook out the water. Keeping it inside if possible will do the most to mitigate new water intrusion. After a couple of oil changes the water will be mostly gone.
 
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