Ethanol gas and equipment storage

kencombs

Well-known Member
I'm one of those that hasn't had issue with ethanol fuel with the exception of seeing several rusty carbs. Some of the later small engines have carbs with steel float bowls. Just a little water will cause rust, and eventually a hole.

I think this is caused primarily by the water collected from the atmosphere by the gas. Not a problem if in constant use as it will burn, in small quantities. But over long periods of disuse the separates and causes the problem.

It seems to me that if there were no entry for air into the tank this wouldn't be an issue. Finally my question: I fill the tank, all the way to the top of the neck, then lay a piece of plastic wrap over the neck and screw the cap on before winter storage.

Anybody agree with this a cure for water absorption?

I have 100% gas available but seldom buy any.
 

Yes, water vapor contained in the air within the fuel tank can condense on the cool inside surfaces of the fuel tank. This water can be absorbed by the fuel, both gasoline or gasoline/10% ethanol blend. Reducing the ability of the tank to breathe in air is good practice regardless of the fuel used. Most carburetors are vented in some manner, therefore fuel in the float bowl is also subject to breathing and water condensation.

Best practice for me is: store with the tank full, limit venting, use a tank shut off valve, either drain the float bowl or run the engine until it drains the bowl.

It is interesting (at least to me) to note that gasoline @ 60 degrees can absorb 0.15 teaspoons of water. Conversely, gasoline/10% ethanol @ 60 degrees can absorb 3.8 teaspoons of water before separation occurs. It is my feeling that if you have water problems with a gasoline/ethanol blend the fuel may have been "wet" at the time of purchase.
 
I agree Ken, we have out local plow day on Labor Day Sunday, of course they feed us supper, all the tractors are lined up shut off,i have went down the line, just takes the Gas caps of the tractor, and look under it, some are so crusty with rust it's pathetic,and you talk to the owner of the tractor, i use 10%, A. and i never have a problem, i just smile, agree, and walk away!
 
ON my snowmobile I disconnect the fuel lines then run the Ski Doo until it quits,emptying the carb. I also put gas line deicer in the fuel to get rid of any water moisture in the system. Fuel stabilizer is a must to prevent gumming.
 
This a correction to my post:

The water absorption stated is based on one gallon of fuel. Therefore, one gallon gasoline @ 60 degrees can absorb 0.15 teaspoons of water before separation
occurs. One gallon of gasoline/10% ethanol can absorb 3.8 teaspoons of water before separation occurs.

Sorry for any confusion.
 
The problem is more in the carburetor than the tank.

No way to seal up the carburetor to stop the evaporation. Running it empty can even make it worse as there will still be a small amount in the bottom left to collect water and evaporate.

Best to fill the tank, store inside, and completely drain the bowl.

For extended storage drain and dry the tank also.
 
I have a clean source of fuel, but have NO issues with E10. In my restored ones, I fill the tank and drain the carb. In the rest, I just try to keep the tank full, and burn a tank every six months. Half the year, it is very easy, December til May, not really.

This is true- I had a briggs motor on nurse cart pump that had sat since 2019. Outside. No cover. This spring, I had to resurrect the tank, as I could not find a new poly tank anywhere. I was certain I'd likely be buying a new pump, or at least a carb. It fired on the 2nd pull!!! Before going further, I changed the small inline filter and topped off the gas tank. The pump ran great after the 1st minute.

It's my contention that most ethanol gas issues are due to old cruddy tanks that ethanol scours clean, and then consequently plugs things. Those tanks can be the engine fuel tank, old gas cans, or old storage tanks. If the systems are clean to begin with, I've had no issues.

One last thing- I live in an area where we were required to burn MTBE in gas due to smog concerns prior to ethanol. Prior to ethanol, everyone had the same issues as now- and the blame was all on MTBE. People would drive for miles to get gas for a lawn mower. MTBE left, ethanol came in. Same issues... I'm thinking the crud comes from the gas part, and not the added part!
 
Been using it for over fourty some yrs in my As,Bs and the Cubs no problems by all the gas in town set all winter in unheated shed dirt floor and they start in the spring
 
Back in the day when gas powered farm equipment was far more prevalent it seems that a lot of farmers would readily put a filter on their diesel pump than gas pump. Probably at the urging of the farm equipment dealer who did not want to have any more followups than necessary on the sale of a new diesel and the attitude of when it comes to gasoline everybody know how to drain the fuel bowl and does so.
 
(quoted from post at 17:05:36 08/14/22) I think this horse has been dead for a few years now just like the oil horse.
bsolutely true! Ethanol will screw up old equipment, been thru it all!
 
Here is a picture of a diaphram from a lawnmower using ethanol. The fuel pump cavity area has gotten hard and shrunk so much it even pulled the diaphram a way from the gasket. You decide.
cvphoto133291.jpg
 
Catapiller Guy is correct. This issue has been flogged to death. Each individual believes strongly what they believe. You probably will not change anyone's mind with a picture of a rusty gas tank or carburetor or a shrunken diaphragm. So lets all agree to disagree on the affects of 10% blend gasoline. And please, its been cussed and discussed so many times, please don't bring it up anymore. But if it is please scroll on by. gobble
 
(quoted from post at 13:03:24 08/14/22) People say it often..To get rid of the moisture.. My question is where does it go?

There is no getting rid of the moisture. Heet, in the red bottle is Isopropyl Alcohol and Heet in the yellow bottle is Methyl Alcohol. Adding Heet to gasoline or diesel allows the fuel to absorb the water and hold it in solution.
 
When I owned my fuel business in the 1970's, 1980's I started blending e10, after many hours of schooling. I have used it since in every gas engine I have owned. Some of these sit months at a time and I do nothing to them. Simply shut off the switch. Months later they start right up. It must be the way I store my stuff, chain saw that is now running e15, sits under the bench in its case. Lawn mowers get parked in the machine shed. Gas tractor has set outside for the 20+ years I've had it. Cars and pickups sit outside. Its darn funny I've never had a starting problem.
 
I have been using non ethanol gas in my 7000 series Kohler since new in @2015. With fuel prices shy high I tried using ethanol fuel this past June. The motor is now struggling...deep south gulf coast high humidity...don't buy the ethanol! Please.
 
(quoted from post at 23:12:55 08/14/22) I have been using non ethanol gas in my 7000 series Kohler since new in @2015. With fuel prices shy high I tried using ethanol fuel this past June. The motor is now struggling...deep south gulf coast high humidity...don't buy the ethanol! Please.
fter my welder sat over time with ethanol in it, the tank rusted and was full of snot, like I cough up every morning. It is for sure crap, at least in my climate! That is probably why modern vehicles used a sealed tank, unlike old eqmt.
 
Gas gets old, it doesn't matter if it's E10, E85, ethanol-free or avgas. The only way it can be stored without getting old is to keep it in an air-tight container. Old tractors and small engines don't have air-tight tanks, so gas is going to evaporate in them and moisture will accumulate. A bit of Saran Wrap won't stop it. I'm a believer in storing equipment with near-empty tanks and carburetors run dry. If any moisture collects in the fuel system, the first tank of E10 should dry it out.
 
Jessie,
I make sure the gas in all my tanks is less than one year old.
Annually I will drain the gas in my Jubilee and 2 portable
generators and fill with fresh gas. They see little use.
All mowers and tractors that sit over the winter are full of
gas. I will not add new gas until I run them out of last year's
gas.

They claim the pre mixed gas in a sealed can has a very long
shelf life.

Please Do what works for you.
Different climates, different humidity, different shelf life.
 
"V".... that is what I do , George......non-ethanol in seldom used generator/welder, SMTA, '62 PU and E10 in all the regularly used eqmt.
 
(quoted from post at 13:03:24 08/14/22) People say it often..To get rid of the moisture.. My question is where does it go?

"To get rid of the moisture" is pure BS.

Most of the claims made by these snake oil "fuel preservatives" are pure BS.

What did you do in the 1970s when you had a fuel line freeze up on your car? You dumped in a jug of dry gas. You know what dry gas is? Alcohol. Sometimes Methanol. Sometimes Isopropyl. Sometimes ETHANOL!

The alcohol suspends the moisture, carries it through the fuel system, where it is boiled in the engine.
 
What do you do with that old gas? I pour mine into water bottles and through them at burning stumps. Like hand grnades.

cvphoto133319.jpg


cvphoto133320.jpg


cvphoto133321.jpg
 
I use old oil for brush fires.
I blend the old gas with new gas and burn it in other things I drive all the time.
Never had a problem with carbs and rust..
Do what works for you..
 
If you never have problems, don't change. If you ever have problems change. I have at least 30 small engines between tractors, boats, wave runners, snowmobiles, generators, blowers, weed whips, motor cycles and chainsaws. I've gone from 8 to 10 bad carbs a year to 1 every couple of years. I personally hope they don't stop selling recreational fuel.
 
(quoted from post at 15:47:19 08/14/22) Here is a picture of a diaphram from a lawnmower using ethanol. The fuel pump cavity area has gotten hard and shrunk so much it even pulled the diaphram a way from the gasket. You decide.
<img src=https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cvphotos/cvphoto133291.jpg>


That is exactly how the diaphragms in the Tillotson carbs on the snowmobiles would look after a season in the 1960s.
 

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