Worth it or Not - Massey 65

Ok, folks give me the low down on its potential. I can do the mechanic work, but I'm new to diesels. I know I'll need pointers on the fuel system, before I even try to turn it over. Any other unforeseen problems that scream NOOOOOO? I don't think the furry critters are part of the deal. steve

Having been around a 65 I would say they would be OK for lighter chores and not a lot of hours. Weak points would be the power steering and clutch. Not sure on the parts availability for the engine.

Bushings on front end pivot are pretty thin when new. If the pin wears past the bushings into the cast it is a bit of fun to repair.

I have a MF65 gas. It is a great old tractor....but! I know nothing about MF diesels, but I think some of them had an older Continental engine with issues, somebody like Dieseltech can help you with that. The front end is pretty light to handle a loader, and the Power steering is the weakest link in the MF65 tractor. You have to split the tractor to fix the clutch...no small effort. No way to know why the motor is not running or if all else, tranny and lift are working. Around here the tractor would be $3000 in good working order. As is, with many needed repairs, it would not bring much. You will get better info posting on the Massey Ferguson board herein.

Generally speaking a great old tractor, a few weaker points but nothing worse than anything else it age. Perkins diesel, great engine. Generally good parts availability. That price seems awfully steep for a non runner.

Not too much different from a gas.

Looks like it's been sitting there a while. Not running $3200 is way more than it's worth! They will probably be insulted when you offer $500, still a gamble at that price!

If you get it, and winch it on a trailer, check all the oil drain plugs for water. Don't change any fluids yet, just drain the water and when oil comes down tighten the plugs. If you get water out of the engine drain, there may be water in the cylinders. If water in the cylinders it's probably stuck, at the least remove the injectors before trying to turn it through.

If it is not stuck it may start right up. It will need a fully charged, good hot battery. Don't crank on it more than a few seconds.

Check the fuel supply to the lift pump. Be sure it has clean fuel and no water. If it is puffing white vapor it is getting fuel, if no vapor no fuel is getting through the injectors. Try bleeding them by cracking the lines loose at the injectors.

Best to have the air cleaner disconnected and a board handy to smother it just in case of a runaway!

Is it worth $3,200 ? Yes-No-Maybe.
Yes providing you get permission to have it inspected AND tinkered with by some that know's what they are doing. Paying someone $200 to go over it is money well spent in my book,whether you buy it or not. If you buy it the mechanic is already well along in knowing what it will need to be put back in service. If you don't buy it $200 saved making a $3,200 mistake. For example Eric wisly mentioned front spindles being a bear to fix if worn very bad (which is very common on 65s). An experinced guy will stick a farm jack under one or both axles to see how bad spindles are worn. There are a number of wear points on any tractor that will give you an idea of overall condition and/or how well it has been maintained. Not 100% like hooking up an OBD scan,but pretty darn reliable for those with know how. "RAN WHEN PARKED" is a standing joke. The questions are what it will take to make it run again and how well it runs if it does run again. If you plan to dicker on price you might do it before Mr Goodwrench gets it to fire up because you aren't going to beat it down one cent after that. If it did indeed run before parked and it wasn't parked just before drawing it's final breath,odds are Mr Goodwrench can get it to putt putt long enough to make some good judgement on engine's potential. I would rather pay $5k for one with some blowby and weak hydraulics than $3k for one plus another $6k to have one in good but short of exelent. Why? Because at my age and what I will use it the new engine would be bearly broke in when I'm too old or dead. That's personal preferance so you make that decission.
There's just too many variables to call the shot without knowledgable inspection and evaluation. If it busts off,runs half decent,hydraulics work and clutch only needs adjusted rather than replaced,I'll pay $3,200 and I don't even need it. You should get as many opinions as possible about whether a tractor has to run like new to be of use or will one that is tired and worn like most of us be ok for what it's needed for. From a cost standpoint there's a lot of difference between complete rebuild of gas and diesel.

NO NO NO, not worth 3200, a non-runner usually not worth 1000. Injection pumps have a habit of sticking and possibly breaking if not started in an extended time be cautious. Clutch replacement IS A BIG DEAL even if the parts are new in the box. That rear tire is not 95%. That tractor is a gamble at any price. just my opinion do as you wish, it is your money. gobble

I bought one of those once for 1,000. Had issues but the kicker was it had brand new 10 ply Continental rear tires that I am still running on my tractor at home 10 years later. We did fix the tractor and send it down the road. Bought a donor with a good loader which we put on the good one and parted out the rest of it.

Vito

Non running older diesel that needs a clutch,$1000 absolutely max for me if tires and rims are good.

Something else to ponder on a no drive purchase. The brakes on a MF65 are inside the axle housings, replacing the brake discs is a very heavy job...taking off the wheels and trumpets. No way to check without driving. It also it has planetary gears sets on each rear axle...great unless they are bad. Lots of things to consider on a No Drive MF65.

thats a funny place to PARK a tractor, maybe it was running right up til it died, right there in the pasture. just a thought. gobble

If that loader is run off the 3 point hydraulic pump it is going to work painfully slow. The brakes being inboard is no fun if they need work. The biggy on the 65 is the rear planetaries, should they need work it can get very pricey because most people don't know that they have their own oil, and the oil level is rarely checked. The engine is the easy thing on it since it's the Perkins engine. If the cylinder rods on the loader look good (aren't all rusted) I wouldn't give no more than 1500 for it even if I took a battery, some starting fluid, and checked all the oil levels (especially the rear planetaries).

Thanks, guys, that is a lot of help. I had no idea on the front end and steering stuff. Can I assume it is a dual clutch, and live PTO, 'cause there's a FEL pump hanging off the PTO? The brakes and planetary gears unknown is making me look the other way and keep putting time into my 101 JR. Steve

The early 65 diesels (1960 & 1961 I think) were equipped with the Perkins A4-203 indirect injection engine. The injectors are vertical on this engine. They are notorious for cracking heads. It is doubtful a replacement head can be found. The later 65 diesels have the Perkins AD4-203 direct injection which is a much better engine. The injectors go into the head at an angle on these. The heads do NOT interchange between the A4 and AD4.

The MF 65 came with a Continental G-176 gas engine or a Perkins diesel. They never had a Continental diesel. The MF 85 had a Continental HD-277 diesel engine.

You got some good advice. It is not worth the asking price. There are some up sides, the MF 65 is fairly easy to work on, they built a huge number so used and replacement parts are available and the rebuild kit for the Perkins is not to bad a price. That looks like a pretty beefy loader, using a loader powered by the belly pimp is slow but it is still a loader. The split to replace the clutch is not too bad and can be done with floor jacks. Completely removing the engine requires a decent hoist.

Really the loader is a little too beefy for the front end of those tractors.

Just looking at it, it looked like more loader than the tractor was built for. Thanks all, for your good advice. steve

PS: Billy guilted me into a final followup-I ran, did not walk away. I'm still looking. I need independent PTO, which my 101 Jr. does not have.