Using a trip bucket

Axell

Member
Location
Scandinavia
Hi!

Today I used the fel on my old tractor for the first time with the trip bucket. What was very annoying was that it often turned upside down and was stuck there. That cant be right. I doesnt look like there was a stop on the bucket. So is there supposed to be one or is there a trick to either not letting it swing too far back or a trick to get it flipped back up again?


mvphoto94322.jpg
 
Use one or two pieces of log chain mounted on the loader frame to
a place on the bucket so it can only dump so far. Or weld stops on
the bucket that bucket stops against the frame when bucket id
dumped completely, but not as far as when it gets stuck.
 
Use a fish scale or ? to determine how much weight it takes to return it to home. Pull down on the underside of the cutting edge when it is as
shown. (or add steel weights to that edge till it tips back. then use that amount in the form of a reinforcement along the edge to make the edge
heavier and weld it on. Jim
 
Did the bucket originally have tines or a dirt pan extension? The extra weight of those items will cause most buckets to point nearly straight down when empty. That makes it easy to reset the trip bucket by dragging the cutting edge on the ground while backing up and then drop the loader to the ground to latch the trip bucket.
 
SS55,

I think you have it right on the spot. I have a one arm, trip bucket loader on one of my tractors. It has three or four manure forks on the front of the bucket, so when I trip it, the bucket ends up basically pointing straight down. It is easy then to lower the bucket and back up slowly so it latches again.

Tom in TN
 
my brother used to have a freeman loader on a 3000 ford. the bucket had manure teeth and a plate on them. it had a long spring on it that returned it far enough
to latch it almost every time and that was a lot as we hauled a lot of creek rock and dirt in those days
 
Your bucket should swing freely without getting stuck
regardless of just having manure tines, dirt bucket or
snow bucket. I cant tell by the picture if your pins on
your bucket have grease zerks or not, most do not. But
you might want to spray some penetrating oil or
something on those pins and use it some more. You
should be able to trip the bucket and back up while
lowering the loader to the ground to latch the bucket
again without anything getting stuck. Keep using it,
things may loosen up.
 
If its properly balanced, you should be
able to trip it at any height and it should

return to the locked position in it's own.
Only if some material sticks to the inside
of the bucket should you have to lower it
to return to lock. Make sure it swings
freely on the pins and add or remove
weight so that when tripped it return to
lock.

Ben
 
Check it carefully. I think your bucket is mounted wrong. Try turning it around side to side and I think it will work the way you want it to work. From your picture, it's easy to see that the cutting edge is toward the tractor, but it should be pointing away from the tractor. If you try turning it side to side, please let us know if that works or if I'm totally wrong. Thanks.
 
I should have added that the cutting edge IS the lowest edge in your picture. It seems to me that other replies think the cutting edge is the upper edge in your picture.
 
I think in this case looks are deceiving some that are viewing your photo. If the open side of the bucket is facing the cross piece of the loader frame then what they are saying about the bucket being mounted backwards is correct. However. how I am seeing it and I perceive to be correct is that the opening of the bucket that material loads into is facing the ground and the flat bottom and cutting edge are turned back and hitting the cross piece of the loader arms. I could see how it could be confused. I have no idea of the balance of that bucket. I would have to look at it in person to make a recommendation. My initial thinking is that it needs stops put on it. I would make them pretty substantial so you could trip the bucket and push on material to spread it. I would say that the stops should be placed so that when tripped and the cutting edge is on grade the stops only allow the bucket bottom and cutting edge to roll back past perpendicular 15 degrees. If the balance of the bucket is anything like the one on my Horndraulic trip loader on my M Farmall if you would raise it up with it tripped you could take your foot and give it a good kick towards the stops. Then when it bounces off the stops it is balanced well enough that it would rebound and re-latch. They do not call them the Cadillac of trip loaders for nothing. I will say this, the bucket on my loader would hold maybe two thirds what yours would appear to hold.
 
If it automatically swings that far over center each time you dump it, then I would agree it probably needs some stops of some kind, or chains or springs to keep it from going over that far.
As far as returning to locked position, it's common to have to lower the bucket to the ground and back up to re-latch it.
 
Dont think at has been any different than it is now. Here it is what it looks like on the inside.

mvphoto94341.jpg


I did grease the pins and it is swinging freely. Adding more weight to the edge would prevent it from returning to relatch.
As mentioned in the first reply, a solution is the dump softly. Lower the bucket to ground, release latch while raising the it. Dont think that is always doable and good for the bucket. It is also annoying having to do that each time.

Could the be a bucket made for some other fel?
Btw it is a chief front end loader.
 
All i have ever used was a trip bucket. All i have ever seen have had a dual chain/spring type stop so when you dump it starts to catch the bucket just before 90 degrees and then they hang at about 100 empty. Have tried it without springs and i don't recommend continuing to use it until you get a stop of some kind rigged up as it does hit the frame violently at times. it also assists in emptying the bucket as it hits the end of the springs. I have moved enough snow with a trip bucket to know i can move more snow faster than a bigger hydraulic dump bucket because of the this feature. push up into the pile, dump and drop to reset as you back away from the pile and be back to work before the hyd bucket has sat and shook half the load out. If you are lifting say dirt or rock i try to limit weight both out of caution and the fact that i almost can't pull the handle with a full bucket. Have never had one that will self reset tho i have heard of it. i would think if you had enough spring to self reset it would break the spring or still hit the frame like you are experiencing now when dumping heavy. about 16 inches of heavy spring on each side with 3/8 chain adjusted as i m4entioned seemed to be about right on the big snow bucket that had new idea sticker on what my uncle said was a david bradley loader. hth fred
 
(quoted from post at 01:48:17 07/11/22) Dont think at has been any different than it is now. Here it is what it looks like on the inside.

mvphoto94341.jpg


I did grease the pins and it is swinging freely. Adding more weight to the edge would prevent it from returning to relatch.
As mentioned in the first reply, a solution is the dump softly. Lower the bucket to ground, release latch while raising the it. Dont think that is always doable and good for the bucket. It is also annoying having to do that each time.

Could the be a bucket made for some other fel?
Btw it is a chief front end loader.


The bucket would originally have had a much heavier-stronger cutting edge. At some point it probably got worn thin and was replaced with that little strip which isn't even long enough to span the whole bucket. The original real cutting edge probably weight five times what is there now. That additional weight would keep it from rolling over as it does.
 
Some trip loaders work better than
others. My loaders will reset themselves
unless I have the soil plates installed.
The soil plates change the balance and
make it necessary to back drag the bucket
to reset. I've never seen one stick
upside down like in your picture. That
would be frustrating in short order.
 
There is some trick photography going on here. If you rotate the bucket 180 degrees on its existing mounting pins in either picture, it doesn't look the same as a 180 degree roll in the other picture.

I maintain the original picture is somehow reversed or some other trick of photography.

Rotate the originally posted picture 180 degrees on its mounting pins and the long side IS ON TOP, but it should be on the bottom.
 
(quoted from post at 06:15:51 07/11/22) Some trip loaders work better than
others. My loaders will reset themselves
unless I have the soil plates installed.
The soil plates change the balance and
make it necessary to back drag the bucket
to reset. I've never seen one stick
upside down like in your picture. That
would be frustrating in short order.

Yes, it very quickly got frustrating to get off and on that tractor to reset the bucket.
 
(quoted from post at 04:04:57 07/11/22) All i have ever used was a trip bucket. All i have ever seen have had a dual chain/spring type stop so when you dump it starts to catch the bucket just before 90 degrees and then they hang at about 100 empty. Have tried it without springs and i don't recommend continuing to use it until you get a stop of some kind rigged up as it does hit the frame violently at times. it also assists in emptying the bucket as it hits the end of the springs. I have moved enough snow with a trip bucket to know i can move more snow faster than a bigger hydraulic dump bucket because of the this feature. push up into the pile, dump and drop to reset as you back away from the pile and be back to work before the hyd bucket has sat and shook half the load out. If you are lifting say dirt or rock i try to limit weight both out of caution and the fact that i almost can't pull the handle with a full bucket. Have never had one that will self reset tho i have heard of it. i would think if you had enough spring to self reset it would break the spring or still hit the frame like you are experiencing now when dumping heavy. about 16 inches of heavy spring on each side with 3/8 chain adjusted as i m4entioned seemed to be about right on the big snow bucket that had new idea sticker on what my uncle said was a david bradley loader. hth fred

Think I will go for the chain or strong string. Much easier than welding some heavy steel to it.
 
(quoted from post at 08:06:53 07/11/22) There is some trick photography going on here. If you rotate the bucket 180 degrees on its existing mounting pins in either picture, it doesn't look the same as a 180 degree roll in the other picture.

I maintain the original picture is somehow reversed or some other trick of photography.

Rotate the originally posted picture 180 degrees on its mounting pins and the long side IS ON TOP, but it should be on the bottom.

There is no trick photography going on.

In the first picture the bucket is tripped, rotated 180 degrees on its pins in a "dumped" orientation. The open side of the bucket is facing straight down.

In the last picture the bucket is upright in its scooping position.
 
Think I will go for the chain or strong string. Much easier than welding some heavy steel to it.

That's not going to work. The force of the bucket will snap most any "string" and most chains sooner or later.

Plus you will not like the "jerk" sensation as the bucket hits the end of the chain/rope/string.

When the bucket ends up upside down, is it wedged there or balanced there?
 
(quoted from post at 11:31:09 07/11/22)
Think I will go for the chain or strong string. Much easier than welding some heavy steel to it.

That's not going to work. The force of the bucket will snap most any "string" and most chains sooner or later.

Plus you will not like the "jerk" sensation as the bucket hits the end of the chain/rope/string.

When the bucket ends up upside down, is it wedged there or balanced there?

It is balancen. I could tie a long rope or wire to it and put the other end up in the cabin to pull.
 
What you really need is something to tip the balance slightly toward the front of the bucket. A couple of thick pieces of steel bolted to the inside of the side walls of the bucket at the opening would do it.
 
(quoted from post at 09:20:33 07/11/22)
(quoted from post at 04:04:57 07/11/22) All i have ever used was a trip bucket. All i have ever seen have had a dual chain/spring type stop so when you dump it starts to catch the bucket just before 90 degrees and then they hang at about 100 empty. Have tried it without springs and i don't recommend continuing to use it until you get a stop of some kind rigged up as it does hit the frame violently at times. it also assists in emptying the bucket as it hits the end of the springs. I have moved enough snow with a trip bucket to know i can move more snow faster than a bigger hydraulic dump bucket because of the this feature. push up into the pile, dump and drop to reset as you back away from the pile and be back to work before the hyd bucket has sat and shook half the load out. If you are lifting say dirt or rock i try to limit weight both out of caution and the fact that i almost can't pull the handle with a full bucket. Have never had one that will self reset tho i have heard of it. i would think if you had enough spring to self reset it would break the spring or still hit the frame like you are experiencing now when dumping heavy. about 16 inches of heavy spring on each side with 3/8 chain adjusted as i m4entioned seemed to be about right on the big snow bucket that had new idea sticker on what my uncle said was a david bradley loader. hth fred

Think I will go for the chain or strong string. Much easier than welding some heavy steel to it.


Go look at a hundred buckets you will be lucky to find one without a heavy cutting edge. There is a reason for it.
 

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