Fuel tank leak

Patsdeere

Well-known Member

Working on a JD G (but this a universal question). The threaded part for the fuel bowl is cracked loose from the solder joint. What's the best way to fix? Is there a repair kit/flange& bung that can be soldered on? If not, would I be able to braze a pile fitting in our do I have to solder since it was soldered originally? Best way of not blowing the tank up when I do this?
 
(quoted from post at 08:40:18 07/08/22)
Working on a JD G (but this a universal question). The threaded part for the fuel bowl is cracked loose from the solder joint. What's the best way to fix? Is there a repair kit/flange& bung that can be soldered on? If not, would I be able to braze a pile fitting in our do I have to solder since it was soldered originally? Best way of not blowing the tank up when I do this?

In your other post I think you said the flanged bung itself is cracked PLUS the solder?

Is it riveted to the tank, as well as soldered?

I looked on-line for a replacement flanged bung, but did not immediately find one, if nothing else one could be salvaged from another tank, perhaps?

Or, it would be simple to make one out of brass on a lathe.

I don't know why you'd want to BRAZE it to the tank, the extra heat will warp the metal around it and burn off the tine coating (terne metal) on the tank.

I would use StaBrite, a silver solder, it's stronger than lead-tin solder.

As to safety, have the tank steamed out, then fill it with an inert gas before soldering.
 
Sounds like the saying I was told years and years ago, tight is tight and too tight is broke, famous last words are, just a little more, lol hope you are successful with your repair. gobble
 
U e an iron and lead acid solder and any good flux such as Ruby or make your own flux, Use a pair of 3# rons and suitable gas flame such as a gasoline blow torch
Easy if you have the right stuff and almost difficult if you cut corners.
 
BTDT I would remove the tank and solder it. Be really hard to do in the tractor ? but it may be worth a try as it is not easy to remove them either. But defiantly solder it like originally.
 
Ironically it was fine while I was preparing for an event, test drive, bouncing around in a dirt field etc. But going down the basically nice smooth paved road did it in. Weird.
 
Yeah the bung was cracked, about 3 threads
from the end. Ground that off and then
pressure checked it with soapy water.
Right where the fitting goes into the
solder, it was cracked all the way around.
Could move it about 15 - 20 degree of
rotation.

In the picture you can see where I ground.
The next step down is where the solder
broke loose.
cvphoto129978.jpg
 
the way to fix that is to remove that old cracked fitting. solder will never hold it. soon as you tighten the sediment bowl in it will just spread and crack again. that can all be made dont need to look for the actual fitting for that tank. with out seeing the tank and from what i can see i would drill the threads out and get the 3/8 pipe fitting collar if thats what it is , then it could be silver soldered in if the outside part has enough meat. hard to tell with out seeing it. and the crack do it also. and if you used a collar then you could have a short stand pipe inside the tank if you wanted.
 
Either silver solder or I would consider one or both braze it with a very small tip and tin/braze coat the fitting and let melt on to the tank. Or with a wire welder you could weld it so it would be solid then solder the thing to seal any leaks. With it full of water the drain off a bit so it is not right up to the work level do your thing. The inert gas would work just not sure where I would get that here.
 

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