Perkins Head Torque Update

First of all, the engine is in an Allis Chalmers 715 backhoe. I reviewed the Mahle torque specs that Used Red MN attached with his reply. I went with 100 ft lbs with a retorque after a couple of warm up cycles planned. I cleaned and oiled all bolt and (4) nut threads. Then screwed them all down tight by hand. On round one, I took all down to 85 following the recommended sequence. On round two, I took them down to 100. I wasn't satisfied with how they felt at 100 so... Round three I eased them on down to 115 with no retorqued planned now. I reused the (1/2 fine thread) bolts. All looked good. I plan to continue reassembly tomorrow. Thx for all your responses. I'll kp you posted as progress continues.
 
I would still do a hot retorque if the specs call for it.

The proper retorque is to ever so slightly back each nut/bolt off, one at a time, just enough to feel it move but not relax the full tension, then take it to the recommended torque.

Also a good idea to reset the valves.
 
I won't let a Perkins out the door WITHOUT doing a hot retorque. I have the coolant full and leave the water pump belt off and run engine until it's 190/200 degrees. I've never backed off the hardware, they will usually already be 20-30FT/LB below the final torque anyway on engines I've seen.
 
Blew the gasket between cylinders 2 and 3 a few years ago on the Perkins 300. We got the head planed nice and smoooth and I put it back together. 110 pounds torque. Did do a hot re-torque and anybody that knows the Super 90 tractors knows you can't do a thing to that head without removing the fuel tank. So I set up a small temporary tank so I could run it up to temperature and do the re-torque. It must have worked ok because the tractor has been working well since 2014. Some video of the process here....
Perkins head torque
 
X3 on the hot re-torque although i have successfully cheated by adding a tank type block heater and letting it run until it opens the thermostat and radiator is warm. usually 5-6 hr. fred
 

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