Starter Question on a MF 1130

dhermesc

Well-known Member
We recently purchased a MF 1130 tractor. Looks rough as a cob but actually runs pretty good - until yesterday. Son ran it out of fuel on a steep incline - refilled the fuel tank and went to start it and nothing - not even a click from the solenoid. Messed around with it and finally got it to click but would not turn the engine over - then it wouldn't click anymore. He pulled the starter and took it to NAPA - they tested it on the bench and it spun over like a top - but took 200 cranking amps (?) to do so with no load.

Son and I took it back to the tractor and we thought - possibly it was on a dead spot on the armature when he first tried to start it and rolling around in the bed of the truck may have gotten it to a good spot when it was tested. Basically the hit it with a hammer cure. Put it back on the tractor and nothing. On a hunch I told him to run the jumper cable from the + on the battery to the solenoid. We then jumped the solenoid. The starter kicked in and tried but wouldn't turn the engine over. Tractor runs on a single 12 volt battery.

My assessment - the starter is about burned out with all the amperage it takes to roll it over and isn't strong enough to turn the engine over, and the battery cable needs to be replaced as it was probably damaged supplying that much power at every start up and the final start up fried it.

The engine is not locked up (my first fear) as we rolled it over by hand.
 
Probably a combination of things going on... Id say the brushes are probably poor in the starter and the switch contacts arced and dirty...
Also bad battery cable/connections/grounds. Clean all the cable connections and make sure they've got good ends... then tear the starter down and clean the commutator, make sure the brushes move freely and aren't gone... check the end bushings and regrease.. probably will get more time from it.

Rod
 
I already have another one ordered. I have 0 experience with tearing down starters. My son had this one apart and it appears to have been rebuilt at least once with paint pen markings all over on the inside. This thing was used for feeding cows for years and ran for 20-40 minutes at a time. Its on our big round baler and getting some field hours for the first time in years.
 
(quoted from post at 09:51:17 06/15/22) We recently purchased a MF 1130 tractor. Looks rough as a cob but actually runs pretty good - until yesterday. Son ran it out of fuel on a steep incline - refilled the fuel tank and went to start it and nothing - not even a click from the solenoid. Messed around with it and finally got it to click but would not turn the engine over - then it wouldn't click anymore. He pulled the starter and took it to NAPA - they tested it on the bench and it spun over like a top - but took 200 cranking amps (?) to do so with no load.

Son and I took it back to the tractor and we thought - possibly it was on a dead spot on the armature when he first tried to start it and rolling around in the bed of the truck may have gotten it to a good spot when it was tested. Basically the hit it with a hammer cure. Put it back on the tractor and nothing. On a hunch I told him to run the jumper cable from the + on the battery to the solenoid. We then jumped the solenoid. The starter kicked in and tried but wouldn't turn the engine over. Tractor runs on a single 12 volt battery.

My assessment - the starter is about burned out with all the amperage it takes to roll it over and isn't strong enough to turn the engine over, and the battery cable needs to be replaced as it was probably damaged supplying that much power at every start up and the final start up fried it.

The engine is not locked up (my first fear) as we rolled it over by hand.

As previously stated . The battery , cables and connection are all weak or have high resistance .
 
For what its worth,we have an 1105 your machines little brother that should have 2 batteries wired in parallel for more amps one on each side of the platform in the swing out doors.
 
I do not see you mention a volt meter. You need one, then hold it on the battery post on one end and the stud of the terminal on the other if positive or for negative a good clean bare metal spot on the starter. You should not read more then 1 volt drop over the cable. You will have to swap the meter leads end to between the 2 cables, red lead on positive batt terminal on plus cable and red lead grounded to starter on the ground cable. I am going to say there is a chance your jumper cable was not heavy enough to carry the load to crank it unless you have ones made from welding cable. I am guessing your positive battery cable is bad or there is a bad connection on it.
 
I'd start with looking and cleaning connections. Then if no go put a different battery in to see if that made a difference, if so then check alternator for charging. If no then pull starter apart and check bushings for wear and dragging of the armature looking for rub marks inside if the field coils and other places. If worn or dragging it will ad draw amps fast and need much more juice to start. If this ia ll good then it is time to check field coils for a bad spot or dirty commutator and worn brushes. after all this if good then its battery or cables bad. If worn then need parts and will be good for a long time if done right.
 
I agree with RustyTech, You have a 354 Perkins with a turbo on it. The same 354 Perkins that's in an Oliver 1850 and White 2-105 and 2-85. They come from the factory with 2 12 volt batteries wired in series to raise the cranking amps. One battery just won't cut the mustard.
 

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