Floating Top Link?

Tslinger · May 3, 2022

Ok, here's the deal....

I've got an old Ford 909 rotary mower that I'd like to use again. Haven't used it in a couple decades at least, but it's in reasonable shape with a little welding...

Back then, we had it behind the 8N. Standard top link. We got away from it when my folks picked up a finish mower, and have been using that since.

The 909 wasn't built to have any flex in the toplink. I don't know why, guess it wasn't a thing then... I am sure people are about to tell me to just use a chain. And that will be a NO! I want some flex so it can follow terrain, but I want that flex limited so the back can't come up enough to screw with the PTO. My use is to push back at the field edges that have all grown in with briar, so there will be a lot of backing in to it. (I hate briar. I don't need the field space as we don't farm anymore, but I REALLY HATE BRIAR)

It's going behind a MF 135 this time. While putting a hydraulic top link on is on my wish list, I don't know if my valve will do float, which would solve this... (I'm 100 miles from the tractor, and the copy of the hydraulic manual I have is sketchy at best)

So... The question (finally) is this. Is there a manually adjustable top link that allows some level of movement? Like instead of the typical swivel end, a slotted slab. The top link position on the 909 doesn't allow enough room for the swinging type arrangement we have on our Ford 930 finish mower...

OregonAaron · May 3, 2022

I know that some folks that run a chain will put the chain thru a piece of pipe to limit the amount of float. I have never done this soni can't speak to how well it works. However, it would be a very cheap experiment.

Indiana Ken · May 3, 2022

I use threaded adjustable top links for my various implements. There is a center section that is threaded. The two ends are also threaded and thread into the center section. Since one end uses RH threads the other end uses LH threads; rotating the center section lengthens or shortens the link as desired.

If one were to remove the threaded center section and replace it with a non threaded pipe the two ends could telescope inside the pipe. Cutting the pipe section to the proper length would act to stop the distance the rear of the mower could rise. Using extra long pins at tractor and mower should allow for attachment of a chain to lift the mower for transport.

When you finish the "brush job" the top link should still work with the center section.
.

Steve in IL · May 3, 2022

Check out the top link connection of a King Kutter brush
mower. Its really just a U-shaped extra piece where your
standard top link connects. Perhaps you could fabricate
something like that?

Jim in NC · May 3, 2022

Chain has worked good for me.

glennster · May 3, 2022

look at part number one and three on the woods rm 600 mounting assembly and see if that will work. on my 600 there is an extra bracket
where the top link connects. it allows about 6 inches of travel for the top link. it helps to let the deck float but not too much. here is a link to
the picture
woods mower

Cash4Toys · May 3, 2022

Make a link to go between your mower and
your toplink like Farmking or Landpride
use on their finish mowers. Build it to
the length you feel you need to have for free
play. Quite simple to do actually. In fact
you can look at one of their parts manuals
and buy it.

Tslinger · May 3, 2022

As I mentioned, the U shaped solution from the various finish type mowers can't work on a 909. I should have grabbed some photos while I was out there... Basically there's a 3" pipe loop that the 3 point connections are on, with the top being just a couple short pieces that stick up over the pipe. No room for a U shape piece to swing through. Honestly, I like that design due to the simplicity, it just doesn't work on this mower...

Geo-TH,In · May 3, 2022

Woodd RM660
Top link has chains.
Lift arms articulate.
Is

this what you call floating?

RogerinIowa · May 3, 2022

If you are thinking the raising of the
rear of the mower will damage your pto,
you have other problems. Limiting of the
raising of the mower means you will be
trying to raise the rear wheels of
tractor off the ground.
I believe your pto shaft from tractor to
mower is wrong length.
A chain is the way to go. Fix other
problems.

redforlife · May 3, 2022

I run a Rhino mower, on a 235 Massie
without problems.

The Rhino mower has a pivotal U shape
bracket on the implement where a REGULAR
top link attaches to the implement. It
allows for SOME limited free travel of the
rear of mower. Not to much, which would be
unsafe and tear things up if no
limitations.

Take a look at newer Rhino mowers (not sure
if older ones were like that) if you are
un-aware of what I am talking about.

If your saying that it won't work, it's
only because you are not thinking far
enough into it. You may have to think about
torching, fabricating, and welding to
accomplish it.

I'm under the impression that you are just
thinking it won't work, because you can't
add that feature by not changing how it is
currently.

For what it's worth, my 235 Massie (just a
newer version of the 135), DON'T have
floating hydraulics. Stands to reason, your
135 don't either. Not something they would
of put on a 135, and then discontinued.

Tslinger · May 3, 2022

That will most certainly float..
Basically the same result as our Ford 930, just achieved a different way. Is there anything to control how much the deck could come up in the back?
We're getting a little off in the weeds though as this is a 4 wheel finish mower that will never see the abuse a rotary will. I think I'd be pretty comfortable with that setup on a finish machine.

I'm stealing someone else's photo to illustrate what I've got... Mine doesn't look this nice.

This should give you a sense of how inflexible this particular setup is. It's built about as rigid as can be.

Dennis Minn · May 3, 2022

Taliaferro. How about a chain,
inside a suitable length of pipe?

Some movement allowed that wad.

J Hamilton · May 3, 2022

I think I know
what you are wanting to do. We had one like
this and we cut a slot where the top link
pin could slide to allow the mower to flex
some instead of being mounted solid to the
tractor. Is this what you are trying to do?

Tslinger · May 3, 2022

I'm not opposed to the chain/pipe idea. Have to put that on the machine to check geometry. It obviously is the cheapest way to go if it'll work.
Not going to be back there for a couple weeks, so this is all about gathering ideas.

Steve in IL · May 3, 2022

Yep Either the u-shaped link, or 2 separate pieces of flat
stock (Deere 717 mower) will work with that. You will need
to fabricate them either with an elbow bend, so they flex
down around the main 3 point frame, or limit their travel
forward slightly, so then they flex upward. We modified our
u-shaped linkage so it only flexes upward. I can get a photo,
if you want. Works great.

Tslinger · May 3, 2022

That's kinda the idea. Obviously there isn't enough material on the top mount to make long slots. I was hoping there might be a top link that had a longer slot, but I sure haven't found that either.

And yes, of course I could cut the thing apart, and weld an alternate setup. That's fine if it has to happen, but I'd obviously be happier if there was a more off the shelf solution. Like everyone else, my to-do-list is way longer than I'll ever have time to get to, so I try to shop a solution when I can without reinventing the wheel.

As it is, I'm already having to make a front guard for it. I well remember getting hit by debris coming out the front of it. Blade tip is only an inch or 2 back from the front edge. The OEM guard bolted on the front and extended forward far enough so the chains didn't get caught by the blade. Guessing around 6". We never had the OEM guard, just a couple pieces of rubber bolted right to the front edge that promptly got sliced by the blade when they pushed under the deck in stiff conditions...

Tslinger · May 3, 2022

That's an interesting approach. Hadn't thought about pushing a link over the top. I'd appreciate a shot of that if you don't mind.

Geo-TH,In · May 3, 2022

Try using a chain instead of the top link.
Or use a turnbuckle and short piece of chain.

EX Deere Farmer · May 3, 2022

Your wanting to let the rear of your cutter float up and down while on the ground with a limited amount of travel. An easy way to do this is to install two short flat irons with a hole in each end, in the current top link pin location of the cutter. Then you install your top link to the one set of holes. So when lifting the cutter the irons act just like the top link does. However when in the mowing position the irons will drop and allow movement when in compression. The length of the irons will limit the total movement. This does the same thing as the chain in pipe idea but is easier to hookup.

flying belgian · May 3, 2022

Since the 3 point arms on tractor float and everything is ridged, if you lowered the 3 point lever on tractor all the way down wouldn't it be held up with tail wheel? Is parallelogram the word I'm looking
for? Tail wheel goes up, front of mower goes up as well.

ihplowboy · May 3, 2022

My McCormick B-250 has a slip top link with a slot, or it can be solid. It was also used on the B-275.
It moves about 2 inches.
Jim

Dick L · May 3, 2022

I never use a top link on my rotary mower. I have a Ford rotary also and use it mostly to cut my hay but do use it to mow lawn every
now and then.

BarnyardEngineering · May 4, 2022

You're overthinking this. The 3pt does not have any down pressure, so the entire mower will lift straight up when you encounter an obstacle that will lift the rear of the mower, if you use a rigid top link.

Fritz Maurer · May 4, 2022

100% correct. I never understood the need for a flexible top link, but then I never understood the reason for running the mower nose-down on the skids either. If the mower pictured was properly leveled, the whole mower with the hitch would raise, still level, if the mower were backed into a hill or something.

Tslinger · May 4, 2022

I'm not going to argue the parallel lift of the 3 point. You're right on that to an extent. I'm not even going to argue about it being nose down, though I've always run it that way somewhat.

However, the amount the mower can move on the 3 point doesn't cover the variation in the terrain in some cases. Going over the edge of a dropoff, I don't want the back end coming up in the air. Then across the bottom of a dip with the mower on the down, and the tractor on the up, there isn't enough movement, plus I really don't want the front of the mower coming up off the ground that much. (A. it isn't cutting then, and B I don't want whatever it might find to cut getting thrown around)

Perhaps some of you live in flat areas, and just don't have crazy ground to deal with. We're kinda the ankle of the mountain. We're the highest/steepest area really before they couldn't find any ground they could use way back when this was setup sometime in the 1750's. Literally right across the street on my uncle's place, there's no real issue with ground undulation (sloped, but even), but on my side forget it.

Texasmark · May 4, 2022

My 6' medium duty shredder comes standard with that type of swinging top link connection. i set it for the tail wheel spacing off the ground when in the transport mode and it does a good job of allowing the tail wheel to follow the ground.

The light duty 5' uses a strap from the top link to a short chain that connects to the tail wheel assy. Same thing here on adjustment. When mowing the chain end of the strap is sitting on the mower deck, relaxed, on flat ground.

Steve in IL · May 5, 2022

Here are some photos of the modified U linkage, so that it
flexes up, instead of down. There are two pieces welded on.
One bar across the front bottom, so the U linkage is always
slightly up, and a tab on the back, to keep it from over
rotating towards the back.

Tslinger · May 6, 2022

Thanks the taking those. I'll be able to take a look at the mower today.

In other news... I picked up a copy of the owners manual for a 909. There's a brief paragraph, and a poor photo indicating they had an option for a flex link. I don't think it was the typical U shape... It kinda looks like a couple sectors that went on the outside of the regular mount, and limited by hitting the heavy pipe. If that's the case, I can see why they're all missing since they were not permanently attached.

ihplowboy · May 7, 2022

Picture is the McCormick B-250 top link.
It is in the locked position.
If the handle is in the slot it will float.
Jim

Tslinger · May 21, 2022

I'm back...
And it's solved...
The valve I have on the tractor for the remote will in fact allow me to have the cylinder float. So the hydraulic toplink I just put on will do.
While I can't try the mower yet (slip clutch is a mess), I did try it on the pallet forks I've got on there, and it works just fine.
On another positive note, I did get the chain guards finished yesterday.

Floating Top Link?

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