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Troy Bilt Tiller repair problem Horse model from the 80s

M

Magaro

New User
Had an oil leak in the tine transmission assemble. Ended up replacing all oil seals, shaft (tine shaft), bronze worm gear, and bearings.
Removed main tiller drive shaft as well but did not replace any bearings, just the oil seal. At that time there was one shim behind the bearing on the worm drive end from the factory.
Reassembled with all the new parts and filled with gear oil.
Started the tiller and place in neutral. When placed in operation tines mover smoothly in forward. No oil leaks.
HOWEVER....when i put the the tines in reverse there was a lot of chatter....sort of like gears not fully engaging. Shut the tiller off.
Redid the entire procedure to make sure all was in correct placement. Also started the tiller without tine assembly and place in forward and reverse.....no noise.
Replaced reassembled tine transmission assembly with same results.
Any idea would be helpful....want to get my sweet corn
in here in PA.
 
If reverse is like the one on the 1972 Troy built tiller my dad got new it could be the reverse drive part. Reverse has not worked on this one for decades due to the drive part has broken free from it's mount
 
(reply to post at 06:35:18 05/19/22)
Click to expand...
When i had the tine assemble off i tried the main transmission and watched the Dog Clutch. It worked fine in forward and reverse with no noise.
Thanks for the insight
 
Sounds like a drive clutch dog issue. On
the main shaft of the tiller portion there
is a spring behind the PTO clutch dog. Its
purpose is to allow the dog to move back
on the shaft when shifting the PTO clutch
and then shove the clutch into engagement
when the main clutch is activated. It is a
known problem area. Be sure the spring is
strong enough to push the clutch dog
forward against the snap ring. Also the
shifter wears and won't move the front
portion far enough back but it is
adjustable. Loosen the two plate screws
and move the plate back a bit. Also check
to see that the inner part of the shifter
moves with the handle, the retaining pin
wears and you loose travel.
 
Dad has an older horse I use to till his garden with. For reverse it just has a deal that when you move the lever it just runs on a deal by lifting the lever to run on something for reverse. Been a long time since I looked at it. As I remember about the drive shaft and bearings with shims they are not a big deal for the reverse. The big thing is having the worm and brass gear mesh mostly fool proof since they only have a hole for the bearings just bushings for the axle and same for the main shaft or a bearing been several years since I went through it for him. The tiller shaft has bearings with seals and a poor idea for the location of them. Bearings down in the dirt like that.
 
(reply to post at 03:07:16 05/19/22)
Click to expand...
Thanks Butch.....will check on your suggestions...good info.
Do you think adding shims to the tine assembly could help? Manual lists 4 possibilities and factory setting had one in before the worm gear was replaced. The old bronze gear was very badly worn.
 
I have two of them and two for parts. I have never had them apart. I believe the dog clutch is for high low range. Reverse is
accomplished externally. The belt is not tightened for reverse rather a friction surface on one pulley runs against another. It sounds like the friction surface is worn out or missing I believe. will try to look at mine later. No biggie, Just no reverse, tiller should work fine.

Big mistake to take apart. If grass is cleaned out of seals they will seal again.
 
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