Farmall Sleeve Removal

RyanKve

Member
Hello everyone,
I am currntly in the process if removing the sleeves from my farmall H engine. I will purchase new ones. Ive tried welding a plate to the walls if the sleeve gently and tapping them out. This worked for one and the rest either cracked the top off, or the weld broke (I dont want to weld thru the sleeve into the block). Does anyone have any tips / tricks / tools for removing the sleeves?
Much appreciated,
Ryan
 
Using a easy starting rod (like 7014) weld beads, not attachments from bottom of sleeve to top of sleeve. 4 very modest beads will shrink the sleeves (protest the crank journals with tin or wet rags) I hope prior welding has not caused issues. Jim
 
I worked in a diesel repair shop that had a small (12 swing) lathe and turned a plate to fit the MACK 675 C.I. sleeves. If you know someone who could make one cheap (ha, ha!), it can be used to jack them out. I've had to weld a bead in a spiral thread in sleeves to get the tight ones out when they cooled off!!
 
I went to google and typed in Farmall sleeve remove, and good information came up. Just what you need. Stan
 
i have welded two beads across from each other for the stubborn ones. put your hand in make a fist and lift them out. plus weld fast, darn near from the bottom to the top.
 
Quite often the weld beads will shrink the sleeve enough to actually pull them out by hand when cool. Thick Original sleeves shrink less then
thin overbore sleeves, but both shrink. Measure the bore at the bottom to assess if they are OEM thick, or replacement thin sleeves. Almost all
letter series have had a rebuild with thin sleeves (about 1/16 inch thick. Jim
 
For a novice I will be less damage risk to the block, if you either buy or have a puck made out of about 3/4 plate, to fit inside the sleeve with a lip to hold under the sleeve. Then with a long 1 inch or bigger bolt pull them from the block. Yup it will be a slower process with no damage to the block. the welding might work and if you burn through you now have to have the block and sleeve machined out to fit new sleeves if the block is nor damaged beyond use. You will also need a bar about an 1 inch thick and about 6 inches wide to block up with some steel blocks or such. To be above the sleeve as you pull it up. This will give good satisfaction. After they are out you can clean the block bores and install your new sleeves. Since they are dry sleeves they can pull very hard. The reason for the heavy iron everybody will poo poo, and after you strip threads or stretch a smaller bolt. You will then understand my large sizes. IF they come easier you will not be sorry for the heavy plates then either.
 
Thank you everyone, I was able to remove the sleeves by running a bead up them, and cracking them out by tapping a screwdriver between the sleeve and the block. I have removed all 4 sleeves.
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top