adding oil

Hi everyone. My apologies for not understanding something, but I still don't get it. I looked on line and my owners manual arrived yesterday, which I must have read a dozen times. I still can't figure out where to add new oil for an oil change in my '39 H JD. On page 23, it states to remove the breather stack and filter core, adding new oil. I also read someplace that the filler cap is almost flat and to the left of the steering column support. I am really confused and not sure what to believe. The last thing I need to do is add oil someplace where it doesn't belong. I understand how to check the oil level, drain existing oil and changing the filter. I'm not going to do anything until I understand how to put the fresh oil in. I'm going to my JD dealer tomorrow and buying a filter. Would someone kindly tell me in layman terms, where the location is that I'm seeking. Thank you for your patience and time, Nicholas C.

(quoted from post at 18:21:30 05/15/22) Hi everyone. My apologies for not understanding something, but I still don't get it. I looked on line and my owners manual arrived yesterday, which I must have read a dozen times. I still can't figure out where to add new oil for an oil change in my '39 H JD. On page 23, it states to remove the breather stack and filter core, adding new oil. I also read someplace that the filler cap is almost flat and to the left of the steering column support. I am really confused and not sure what to believe. The last thing I need to do is add oil someplace where it doesn't belong. I understand how to check the oil level, drain existing oil and changing the filter. I'm not going to do anything until I understand how to put the fresh oil in. I'm going to my JD dealer tomorrow and buying a filter. Would someone kindly tell me in layman terms, where the location is that I'm seeking. Thank you for your patience and time, Nicholas C.

Click to expand...

You say you have a manual, it's covered on Page 24 of the manual I have (although likely they has different versions of the manual over the years).

Oil level is checked at a "cock" below and ahead of the flywheel, loosen the hex head and oil will begin to drip out when the crankcase is full. Snug the cock back up.

You add oil by taking the top off of the engine breather and removing the horsehair element.

The oil filler is the round cast iron cap on top of the governor, has three radial ridges. The filter under the breather should be cleaned and the element oiled only. I suppose you could add oil there but it would be slow getting to the crankcase, better at the governor.

Sorry, thought I was on the IH forum. Ignore me.

This post was edited by BarnyardEngineering on 05/16/2022 at 06:29 am.

[b:654c4848f0][i:654c4848f0]it states to remove the breather stack and filter core[/i:654c4848f0][/b:654c4848f0]

Take a look at the parts diagram below.



Note the breather core (filter core) Key 13 and the breather cover (breather stack) Key 17.

Take a look at the photo below.



Hope this helps.

(quoted from post at 21:21:30 05/15/22) ..... I'm not going to do anything until I understand .....

Click to expand...

I wish a few more folks took this approach. Kudos to you.

The responses to my question were incredibly great. Thank you very much everyone. I knew what I was reading in my owners manual, but for some reason, I couldn't relate to it on my tractor. Had a real mental block. So, after reading these threads several times, I went out to my tractor and found everything I was looking for. The diagram in the one thread was perfect. I proceeded to my JD dealer and purchased an oil filter. Went to Walmart and bought Shell Rotella 10w-40 oil. I don't buy oil that often and was really surprised at the synthetic oils on the market. The ratio was like 3-1, synthetic vs. fossil. Is there a push on to use synthetic?? Anyway, went home, drained the oil which was filthy and removed the filter. Matched it up to the new one and we were good. The filter didn't come with an O ring type new gasket, which I thought it should have, so I used a little black form a gasket silicone, around the edge. Put everything back together and I proceeded to put 4.7 quarts of oil in the crankcase. I also used a zinc additive in the oil. Probably didn't have to, but I did it anyway. Checked to make sure there was enough oil in it and there was. Put the breather back together and started the tractor. (Still working on this. I'd like to think I'm getting better??) Let it idle and warm up. Checked for leaks. Nothing. Rode around the property for about 15 minutes and returned to the garage. Shut it off and there was a slight leak around the bolt holding the filter cup on. A very thin line. Not sure if this was new or residual from just around the bolt. Wiped it clean and will check it again tomorrow. I don't want to tighten it anymore then necessary.
That oil change was so simple. I really feel stupid for asking and not being able to figure it out myself. Anyhow, it's done and thanks again, Nicholas C.

Glad you got'r done!

I think all the older JD's were like that. Dad's old JDs and my 44 D is like that.

Is there a push on to use synthetic??

Click to expand...

It's purely marketing. When you see endless commercials telling you that synthetic oil is "better" than conventional oil, eventually you relent and try it.

This shift has been going on for at least 20 years. Eventually conventional oils will be as limited in choices as non-detergent oil is today. There simply won't be a large enough market for it to make it worthwhile for most refiners.

Ironically, one of the main ingredients of synthetic oil is conventional oil.