Clutch adjustment for David Brown 885

I posted yesterday on Case- David Brown forum with no reply yet. I bought this tractor 2 years ago. Second owner. 1974 model 885. When tractor is running and clutch fully engaged. It has about 5-6 inches of free play and the last 1-2 inches of action. Even at low rpms I get a jerking motion that is very annoying. Yes I do have both a tractor manual and a shop repair manual as given to me by the original owner. Thing is I understand the area to work at but I dont understand the authors explanation of how to adjust. I want to have the clutch use up more of that free space of no use. If that makes sense. It would make for a smoother launch instead of launching at the very end of letting the pedal out. Any help is appreciated. Wingnut

Story. Repair doc not posting right now

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I doubt you can adjust out how grabby the clutch is during engagement but you can try. Disclaimer. I have not driven or worked on your tractor model, probably only driven a DB once. Using general mechanical knowledge here goes. It says you back out screw 8 to decrease free play. You say there is to much so that is the first action you take. Now I do not know what is there to stop how far that screws out, but if it is just an adjustment screw with a lock nut you probably want to keep at least one turn or thread screwing it in the casting to lock it in position. So I would adjust that out to get rid of as much free play as you can or set it at the 1 - 1 1/8 in. setting as is called for if possible. So even if you do not get all the free play out to the specified settings drive it a bit at that point and see if it has changed. If not I believe you will just have to accept that the clutch in this tractor is a little grabby or it may just be getting worn to the point it needs replacement. If all the free play is not taken up by the adjustment screw and you really insist that it must be ..wasting your time in my book.. then the book says you need to scribe across the shaft and lever 9, pull it off and turn it counter clockwise one serration or spline and reinstall as described in the manual. Then readjust the stop stud as described in the first step. However, I am assuredly convinced the proper adjustment will not make a change to smoothness of how the clutch engages. The point of motion of the clutch pedal when the clutch plate lining and the rotating surfaces of the flywheel and pressure plate come together has no effect on how the surface react to each other as far as getting everything turning the same speed or the action of engagement of the clutch. I can see if you have another tractor or two and the clutch adjustment is far different on this one how you may just unconsciously move the pedal up quicker and then the engagement point surprises you. So in that case the adjustment may help. The other thing you might try which may make it better or worse, but if the tractor sets long periods with no use this may have a good chance of helping is this. Slightly abuse the clutch by slipping it. Get it on a roadway an put it in high gear. Set the throttle at 3/4 open or so then hold the brakes then slowly let the clutch out to where the engine is pulling down to the point it normally would to get the tractor moving. Keep the brakes on for a 5 count then slowly release them and let the clutch out the rest of the way. Do this twice. Now you will have to let the clutch cool off to see if it had helped or not. Sorry if some of my sentences are a little run on just think of this as being written by the Tractor Vet. At least I did not tell you how much quicker I fixed something and how it worked so much better than if someone else would have did it. And BTW I linked the post you made in the Case forum because the photo of the manual is clearer there. See what happens by adjusting it. If you need more help with clarification post back here or email me.
Post on Case board with clearer photo of manual

Used Red. Thank you so much for the explanation. Sorry thepic is barely readable. I understand your written report better than the shop manual. Its my issue for most shop written steps. Something not right with my brain I guess. Even if I can get the clutch to start grabbing a 1/4 to 1/2 way out from pedal being engaged all the way in Ill be satisfied. Again thank you sir and for posting your response To the Case David Brown forum. Wingnut

Does this clutch engage smooth without the PTO on and is jumpy when PTO is on or is it jumpy all the time? I know some tractors will be jumpy with the PTO on and fine with it off. My 806 and 856 are that way somewhat. They are in adjustment and do this. I just use it and don't worry about it. I was going to ask if it could be a 2 stage clutch when somebody said it was so that explains some of the excessive seeming travel. And some of the last bit of travel engaging the clutch and being jumpy.

Not much adjusting will do for that.

A worn disc will cause the 'all or nothing' feeling. A new disc is kinda spongy, has some compressibility to give the clutch the ability to be feathered. Once it is worn, it will be harder and slicker. And a low geared, light weight tractor aggravates the problem as there is very low starting inertia.

Also an oily clutch will be grabby. If the engine rear main or the transmission input is leaking, the clutch disc will be saturated and sticky.

So, there is really no easy fix. A new clutch is looming in the future. And if there are oil leaks, they need to be addressed.

C G. Firstly thank you for your time. I appreciate your advice. Jumpy all of the time. Not absolutely sure if its a 2 stage clutch but it does feature a live PTO if that it related but I doubt it right. I think I may just leave things alone for the time being as to be honest things are sort of tight right now. Thats not to say later on in the summer or fall I will probably install a new disc or clutch. Everything else is operating fine. A real strong tractor. Wingnut

If its a button clutch it won't engage very smoothly,not smooth like a fiber clutch.

Two stage