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What's better mower?

T

Tree-Farmer

Member
I have a regular riding lawn mower, want to mow around some trees that I have planted, so I would like to get somewhat better mower.

What would you consider is a mower that's one step better than a riding mower?

Do you think a Zero Turn a better mower? I'm not wanting more speed, I will have to go slow to mow this. I want a better mower to be able to mow heavier grass and light brush.

Or should I be looking for a zero turn mower with a fabricated deck? Is a fabricated desk the thing that would make it stronger for heavier grass and light brush?

What brand/model would you recommend for a better used zero turn with a better deck? I want to buy used, can't justify the cost of a new one, so an older, cheaper one.

I have a tractor, but it's kinda big for this and my brush cutter is only 5 foot. I currently mow this with my JD STX 38 mower, so it can be done, just doesn't do it very well.

Thank you!

mvphoto91131.jpg
 
My family has been flailing orchards since
1972, before that it was strictly
tillage.

In the past 50 years, we have put
thousands of acres on a couple of Dandl
flails. One is 8 foot and one is 10 foot.
They are great for mulching foliage and
rolling flat
cvphoto123711.jpg
 
My vote would be a Scag ZTR. I have had three over my lifetime, each with a different brand engine. After 10 years of use there still was lots of use left for
the next owner. They are a heavy fabricated deck. If things got away from me (and they did at times.) I was mowing 6 inch tall grass with no problems. This was
not possible for neighbors with their stamped decks. Buy a Scag Tiger Cub or Tiger Cat with a 62 inch deck and don't look back.
 
I would use a bush hog or flail mower for the area in the picture you attached. IMHO a finish mower or zero turn is not the best or proper tool for this job.
 
That's what zero turns are made for, maneuverability around obstacles. Once you try one, you'll be sold!

The problem with finding a used one is, one, you might find a residential duty that someone is willing to part with, or two, finding a good commercial duty just ain't gonna happen! Used commercial mowers don't hit the market until they are one step from the scrap yard!

And the difference in decks, stamped steel or fabricated, is a common earmark of a commercial mower. Fabricated decks are heavier, stronger, and more easily repaired.

If you plan on doing the majority of the mowing with the tractor, a good residential duty mower will last you many years. Commercial duty are priced above and beyond reality for personal use!
 
I like our Farmall C with the Woods belly mower better for mowing around trees than the JD with the Bush
Hog. The problem with 3 point mowers is the tail swing, and there not very maneuverable. But for long
straight rows they're OK.
 
Mowers can kill trees by bumping into them.
I like to plant flowers around my trees to keep the mower away
from the trunk..

What's a better mower?
One that doesn't bounce. My back can't handle bouncing..
I saw a guy mowing with a JD ztr. It had the new Michelin tires.
He didn't bounce very much and he was flying.
 

If all you are gonna do is trim around the trees a zero is the way to go. A cheap zero is a cheap mower you need to get off your pocket book and get a full blown commercial mower $$$$$. I brought my son a $3500 zero with fabricated deck the deck is nice but every thing about it low bidder got the contract. At 175hr every bearing that runs the mower deck was worn slap arse out even the front wheel bearings.

A friend doing what you are doing brought a mid grade home owner/commercial for 6K he is disgusted with it, it is not built for that kind of heavy work.

I would make sure it has a good suspension seat not a fixed seat are one with little suspension. The guys that have a ferris with suspension love them. I have a Xmart lazer Z that has a platform seat I like it.

I also have a JD520 it has a seat like a normal mower you can't stay in it from sliding around. Its for smooth flat ground only.
 
I'm with Russ mn. A 3 point doesn't do well when trying to mow around
trees. You'll have to go around each one 3 or 4 times to do even a some
what decent job. Not sure of the real answer. A mid mount mower on a
tricycle front tractor might be ok but a finish mower like a Woods brand
will require weekly mowing. They are not brush hogs.
Are your trees planted in rows in two directions? Like an orchard? Being
able to mow in two directions would make things easier but would be more
time consuming.
Dave
 
If you're growing those for sale, best would be a side mount in row weeder on a regular tractor that automatically moves around the tree as you pass it.
If they're just growing up into a wooded area, why not drive crossways with a three point mower. You don't have to get right up around the trunk because
the idea is to keep the worst of the weeds down till the trees cover and they limit the undergrowth. Mowing tight to trees is damaging to them, no matter
how careful you are. If it was just an acre or 2, I'd be using my old Gravely walk behind with front mounted sicklebar. Nice, low rpm slow going, easy to
manouvre and will cut tall and 3/4 saplings no problem if maintained and a bit of exercise to boot.
 
I currently have a Hustler zero turn with a Honda engine. I like it a lot. I have had a Kubota which I think is the best. Also had a Cub which was junk.
IMO If you let the grass grow up to 4-6 inches, you can effectively mow with the zero turn. When you get good at running the zero turn, you can skid the
wheel that is next to the tree and dig up the ground, You can even get that wheel to turn backwards which will dig it up better. After doing this a few
times you have a nice foliage free area around the tree making it easier to mow. All of the zero turns that I have had fabricated decks. They are easier
to repair and patch. Belly mowers are ok if you have live pto although the turning radius is not like the zero turn. 3 point finish mowers will give you
a sore neck and hard to get around trees.
 

cvphoto123730.jpg

I agree a mid mount mower is better than a rear mount.
I have both.
Nothing but a Cadillac compares to the ride of this 1950 American Iron Farmall.

We still use a GT275 with a 4 ft mower to trim with..

Landscape so you can trim with a regular mower first, then use 6 ft mower to get the rest of the yard.
 
I agree on the front deck mowers. I have an older version, a John Deere F935 diesel, 72 deck. I can reach under low limbs or reach out over a small ditch. Try that with a zero turn. If you are looking for a zero turn that rides the best, look for a good used Ferris. Coil over shocks and independent suspension on all 4 corners. A friend needed a mower last year. He found one on AuctionTime about an hour away. I picked it up and checked it all over for him. I had to test it out to make sure it was ready for the season.
 
If it was mine I would run around a little bit getting the big stuff with a 3 point mower or brush
hog and a small tractor. Then clean it up with the Kubota ZT and weed whacker.
 
I mow my windbreak also. I use a gravely zero turn, work pretty good. It is my newest and widest mower. That said I do prefer my old duetz
mower (simplicity) zero turn because it has an out front deck much better for getting into places. If I were to get another mower it would be
an out front style.
 
I don't think there are too many Dandl flails around anymore. I don't know how long the company has been out of business. I have two of them, One of them has a very poor blade hanger assembly, I would hit a rock, or a stump and I would loose the blades and hangers on at, least two sets. That one is going to the iron pile. The other has a bolt, and U shape blade hanger. I never lose blades with it. I keep my blades sharp, it does a good job. Stan
 
You need to get into the contractor grade machines for them to hold up to "light brush" over the long term. Homeowner grade equipment will do it for a while, but before long you'll be cursing them as "junk."

Running an old tractor and mower is fine if you don't mind sitting up high, getting strained through the tree branches, having to deal with the mower stopping every time you push the clutch pedal, AND the mower pushing you 5' forward before it stops turning.

This post was edited by BarnyardEngineering on 04/22/2022 at 07:15 am.
 
A finishing mower will be way too light for that kind of cutting in the long term. A utility tractor and a 3 point hitch bush hog type mower at least as wide as the tractor tires would be a nice combination that with a much nicer ride than any riding mower or ZRT. Even a new mower and a good used utility tractor with live PTO and power steering can be bought for under $10,000.

Are the trees planted in a check row pattern (squares) so that you can mow in 90 degree directions to trim close to all four sides of the trees and only turn around on the ends?
 
That looks like bush hog work to me, at least the first time.

Why not hire someone to cut it close with a rough-cut mower before trying to mow it with your lawn tractor.
 
I got a COUNTRY CLIPPER pro series zero turn. It's got joy stick steering. I call it my no brainier You don't have to
think do I pull or push this stick or the other. You just point the joy stick the direction you want to go. With a 60
inch deck I just drive pass the tree and hook the deck around the far side and do the same on the return trip. The tree
is mowed all the way around and I did not drive around the tree. I find it quicker than driving around the tree. I've
mowed grass 6 inches tall with no problem.
 
Mow more often and use a zero turn. Fabricated decks are heavy but tend to collect grass in every nook and cranny. I have a Toro Z Master that does that. My JD with a stamped deck doesnt. I would opt for a used 400 or 500 series JD zero turn. My JD is Z 445.
 
You might want to consider an offset flail mower for your tractor. An offset mower can get closer to your trees than a typical three-point mounted mower. A zero-turn will definitely be much faster than your current lawn mower, but buying one heavy enough to hold up in rough land will be expensive.
 
Well, I do really like a zero turn, but like other have said, for rough/tough work, you need an expensive
mower. I recently took a part time job of mowing on an estate/farm. They have 2 all wheel steer John Deere
riding mowers and 1 4wd drive, all with 3cylinder diesels. (?model 578?)These are top of the line $14,000
mowers. The all wheel steer mowers will go right around a tree, almost the same as a zero turn. And mow down
tall stuff like your picture without batting an eye. This place has a lot of hills and these mowers mow
everything-20+ acres I'm told. Mark.
 


The thing about a zero turn is that you can bring the deck sideways very slowly up against something that you need to trim around. The general consensus here is the the fabricated ones are far better than the stamped ones. I have yet to have any problem with grass build-up under the deck. I bought a used Ferris fifteen years ago with I think 1500 hours on the 23 HP Kawasaki. The Ferris mowers have suspension so they don't ride roughly. Like anything else, a good condition used commercial grade unit, after you use it for 15 years will be in pretty much the same condition as when you bought it, while a new domestic grade will be junk.
 
Thanks to everyone for their comments. I see that different people have different preferences. There is so much activity on this list that 2 days later, a post is on page 3. Now, it's on page 20.

Blackhole and 1970, thank you for the suggestion for the commercial, front mount mowers.
I think you got an extreme good deal, a F1145 shows for $5,000 to $7,000 in most places.

Yes, I think that's what I want to do. Looking for JD front mount mowers, I think the best one I see is a F925 for $2,200
I see the number series are in size/capacity, the 680 and 725 are smaller, so F925 is bigger and better, I hope
This commercial mower does seem like a bigger mower than a lawn mower. A zero turn would also work for my mowing, but they seem to be more expensive.

My trees are not planted in rows each way, yes that would make it easier to mow.

Thanks to everyone for your advice!
 
The John Deere F900 series are great mowers.
H have an F935 with a 72 deck and I mow
about 15 acres weekly with it. That price on
the F925 seems fair. How many hours are on
it and what size deck. The F925 is basically
the same as my F935. One thing to look at is
the rubber drive coupling on the shaft from
the engine to the hydro unit. They are
almost $300 and they will break in time, I
have replaced mine twice over several years
time.
 
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