Massey_165
Member
Im putting back together a MF 165 engine, wondering what everyones thoughts are on using rtv gasket maker? When and where to use it or if I should use it?
- Thread starter Massey_165
- Start date
Janicholson
Well-known Member
Generally not advisable. it can work for some non critical places or as a thin coating on cork gaskets, but it can squish out and get into mechanisms and metering jets and make far more problems than it solves.
I believe in making gaskets I don't have or can't get from appropriately thick and material correct bulk gasket stock. Learning to use light hammer blows and the ball end of a ball peen hammer to work the edges of a casting is a solid advantage. Jim
I believe in making gaskets I don't have or can't get from appropriately thick and material correct bulk gasket stock. Learning to use light hammer blows and the ball end of a ball peen hammer to work the edges of a casting is a solid advantage. Jim
caterpillar guy
Well-known Member
For bolt holes I use a carriage head bolt with a hole in a plate to make them, after marking by lightly taping the item I want a gasket for. this keeps from getting gasket material in the bolt holes. I just use the flat side of a hammer head till I get to a curve or rounded portion of a casting. Hate silicone gasket maker.
Steve@Advance
Well-known Member
I use it sparingly on transition areas, like where the pan gasket crosses the timing cover, or down in the corners where end seals meet the gasket.
Also to seal open bolt hole threads that go through into the water jacket.
It's good for damaged areas, rust pitted, gouged, repaired, where there is not a good surface for a gasket to seal to.
If you do substitute silicone for a gasket, be sure the gasket is not used as a shim. Sometimes gaskets serve a dual purpose, sealing and shimming a bearing preload, or a gear clearance.
Paper and cork gaskets are pretty stable, but rubber gaskets will squeeze out if silicone or any wet type sealer is used, or the surface is oily.
Be sure to flatten sheet metal covers back to flush where the bolts have pulled down.
Also to seal open bolt hole threads that go through into the water jacket.
It's good for damaged areas, rust pitted, gouged, repaired, where there is not a good surface for a gasket to seal to.
If you do substitute silicone for a gasket, be sure the gasket is not used as a shim. Sometimes gaskets serve a dual purpose, sealing and shimming a bearing preload, or a gear clearance.
Paper and cork gaskets are pretty stable, but rubber gaskets will squeeze out if silicone or any wet type sealer is used, or the surface is oily.
Be sure to flatten sheet metal covers back to flush where the bolts have pulled down.
X2 what Steve and Jani said. More is not better! There are critical parts which will benefit by using small amounts, water ports, pumps, maybe oil pan gaskets, etc. Mating parts and gaskets must be squeaky clean. When the stuff hit the market 30-40 years ago every mechanic was using a tube of it on every job, - everywhere,- and were ill-advised and the excess nubins inside the engine broke off and clogged the oil passages and ruined a lot of engines, - and the mating parts still leaked. Use this product sparingly.
old
Well-known Member
- Location
- Camdenton Missouri
I use it often but that said I am very careful to use only enough to hold a gasket in place. Example is the valve cover gasket. I apply some to the valve cover and then put the gasket on and let it dry for 15 or so minutes. Then put a small amount on the gasket and put the cover on the engine. When I say small I mean just that enough to help it seal but not enough to squeeze out and get into the engine
Too much is not a good at all,several years ago I was helping the road mechanic on a construction site. We pulled the oil pan on a Cat D7 and both of the oil pickup screens were halve filled with silicon strings. I saw the same thing on a hydraulic pick up screen too. Cat sold liquid sealer that did not push out and didn't wind uppluging the oil passages in the crank and bearings. Yes a little to hold a gasket is fine building a gasket with silicone can cause trouble.
redforlife
Well-known Member
I try to avoid using it all together. Not even as a gasket glue. Just buy gasket glue if you want to glue on a gasket.
There are very few situations where I will even use it. Like maybe in the corners of of a V-6 or 8 intake. Or oil pans where the gasket goes from flat to a 1/2 moon round at the crankshaft area of a block. Places like that.
Definitely not something you want to use on everything, everywhere just because you got it.
Water pump gaskets, head gaskets, exhaust manifold gaskets, carburator gaskets, oil pump and sump gaskets, its a big NO NO to use ANY rtv on any of those!!
There are very few situations where I will even use it. Like maybe in the corners of of a V-6 or 8 intake. Or oil pans where the gasket goes from flat to a 1/2 moon round at the crankshaft area of a block. Places like that.
Definitely not something you want to use on everything, everywhere just because you got it.
Water pump gaskets, head gaskets, exhaust manifold gaskets, carburator gaskets, oil pump and sump gaskets, its a big NO NO to use ANY rtv on any of those!!
BarnyardEngineering
Well-known Member
- Location
- Rochester, NY
RTV gasket maker only causes problems because people use too much and don't follow the instructions. They gob it on, slap the parts together, and crank the bolts down. Then they wonder why it squeezes everywhere, gets into mechanisms and metering jets, etc..
Gasket maker has to be allowed to partially cure with the parts lightly held together in order to work properly.
Gasket maker has to be allowed to partially cure with the parts lightly held together in order to work properly.
OregonAaron
Member
On vehicles that use a cork gasket, especially in areas where the gasket wants to shift when tightened I use indian head gasket shellac. Apply a small amount and barely snug up gasket, wait a few hours then torque to spec. Has worked great on troublesome oil pan designs.
Yep! I use it, but keep a box of the cheap vinyl gloves from HF in the tool box to use when applying it. Wipe a very thin film on the surface using a gloved finger, remove any that is out of place with the same finger and discard the gloves.
They also come in handy when using anti-sieze compound, 'cause that stuff just spreads all over you!
They also come in handy when using anti-sieze compound, 'cause that stuff just spreads all over you!
DMartin9N-2N
Member
Good afternoon: For many years, I have been making the occasional gasket from stock purchased at any parts store. Bolt holes, I make using a hole punch set I bought at a flea market (again, "many years ago"). The punches are a set, hollow tips, sizes to fit popular bolt shanks. A light tap with a hammer, there's your hole!
(BTW, Head gaskets, to me, are not something I would attempt to make by hand).
Dennis M. in W. Tenn.
(BTW, Head gaskets, to me, are not something I would attempt to make by hand).
Dennis M. in W. Tenn.
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